6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Start them in Feb or so indoor as well. Do not bother to cut tops or anything, just plop them down in May. Have been gathering good yields. Usually plant them slightly thicker than good initially as collect some fresh young onions as they go along. Main gathering is by August.
Comercially I use a mix we prepare on site. I prefer this mix because I can predict/know the results. I know the water retention, pH, fertilizer retention, compaction etc. If I were to go to a new mix then I would have to change many of my culture prectices. ...... this said........ there is no realy bad mix or any realy good mix its the one we know the best.
That's what he told me he had done, simply put them in water. He sent them to me in sopping wet sphagnum moss, I transplanted the ones that had sprouted and then threw the rest in water (I kept the sphagnum with them) and they germinated just fine. The seeds were very fresh.
Kate
I started mine in plastic baggies moistened just a bit with seed starter mix and kept them in the refridgerator. It took about 2 months for them to germinate. They were blooming the summer of the following year. Thought I would share my method.
Nerium oleander - Seed, light (do not cover seed), outdoors in Spring or sow indoors 70-75F for germination in 30-90 days.
Is this winter hardy for you there, I understand it takes light frost occasionally but would need protection in my Z8
Oh, I'm sorry. It is the American Bittersweet or false bittersweet, the one that's endangered. They say that the invasive oriental one is much easier to propagate by seed, but where I've looked they make no mention of how to plant the seed of the American Bittersweet, so I am looking to you guys and gals for some help.
Thank you!
when the berries are red the seed is fully mature. In a water bath remove the pulp & rince the seed then continue as before
In a comercial opperation it is not "worth it" BUT for you to have 1-2 plants/baskets/clumps then go ahead. It is also a good learning experience for cildren/ grand children/ neighbor child
Factors controling the rate and quality of growth. 1) soil including quanity, quality, drainage, fertility & moisture content 2) light including quality & quanity & duration
Only you can evaluate your situation & determine where you can inprove the rate of growth.
Lois,
You may have tired of the work involved and just want to be done with it. That's nice of you to offer it to another.
But I second Belleville's thoughts. WS works with some but not all in our 'tween zones. I suggest you try spring sowing vs winter sowing with the same seed packet and see which works better.
Karen
ha, I was thinking that since it is ligularia group it would be warm germination plant,also same as ligularia seedheads will produce lots of fluff/ infertile seeds and only few fat ones- fertile. I am positive I have seen seed being offered on NARGS seed exchange. Of course, those fancy farfugiums that are being offered will have to be divided but the basic one should produce at least few viable seeds.
The problem with holly in general (Ilex) from seed is it is very slow. Most types do best with warm moist, followed by cold moist, brought back to warm again cycles - if sowing outdoors Fall may be better. Even then, germination can take 2-3 years. Semi-ripe cuttings taken in late Summer or early Fall faster.
Thanks to you all for your help.
Anyone have ideas for the Anemone obtusifolia f. patula?
Kate
Do not have particulars on this one anemone but have done some others like japonicas, hupensis, multifida, baldensis, cylindrica, levellei- those do great with GA-3, couple of warm weeks and you get 100% germination. Nothing else worked quite as well for me.
Also with anemone you have to be sure you got viable seed- under all that cotton fluff those black rods/dots have to be fat in the middle. Even commercial seed sellers do not always understands it.