6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Lois,
You may have tired of the work involved and just want to be done with it. That's nice of you to offer it to another.
But I second Belleville's thoughts. WS works with some but not all in our 'tween zones. I suggest you try spring sowing vs winter sowing with the same seed packet and see which works better.
Karen
ha, I was thinking that since it is ligularia group it would be warm germination plant,also same as ligularia seedheads will produce lots of fluff/ infertile seeds and only few fat ones- fertile. I am positive I have seen seed being offered on NARGS seed exchange. Of course, those fancy farfugiums that are being offered will have to be divided but the basic one should produce at least few viable seeds.
The problem with holly in general (Ilex) from seed is it is very slow. Most types do best with warm moist, followed by cold moist, brought back to warm again cycles - if sowing outdoors Fall may be better. Even then, germination can take 2-3 years. Semi-ripe cuttings taken in late Summer or early Fall faster.
Check you soil temperature with a cheap thermometer from the grocery store. I think they are called candy thermometers (Some meat thermometers don't register low enough temperatures), have a metal probe that can be stuck into the soil and a dial on top to read temperatures.
I too have noticed that newer furnaces put out lower temperature air. Also the top of newer refrigerators are not as warm as the old ones were. I start my seed on a shelf in the laundry room above the washer/dryer. It is not consistently warmer but then neither is nature consistent. I wonder if sometimes the variation in temperature could be healpful.
When you graft onto a seedling the seedling is juvenile but the scion is from a mature tree and has the maturity needed to produce flowering/fruiting buds. The number of years a tree remains juvenile depends both on the species and how well it is grown. A tree grown without root competition or compaction problems will fruit earlier. Many university tests have been made as well as those from fruit grower societies. Al
Pinus parviflora , Japanese White Pine , sow 3 months moist cold @ 39F, move to 70F for germination.
Pinus thunbergii, Japanese Black Pine, sow 2-3 months moist cold, move to 70F for germination. Very fresh seeds may germinate quickly.
Acer buergerianum , Trident Maple , sow moist cold @ 39F for germination in 6 to 8 weeks - watch these, they may germinate at cool temperatures before you remember to bring them out to warm
Taxodium distichum, Bald Cypress, pour very hot water over seeds (just short of boiling) to help remove resin coating prohibiting water from breaching the seed. Moist cold 39F 60 days, then bring to warm.
All of these could be sown and placed outdoors now in your zone and exposed to a range of temperatures for Spring germination.
Be sure to check out the Tree Forum here too. They have a bunch of great FAQ's and discussion tips there about growing many different varieties from seed.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Tree Forum - Growing from Seed
From the FAQ here:
To find out the germination requirements of a specific plant type the plant name + germination into an internet search engine. There are literally hundreds of thousands of plants with different germination requirements. A search engine can rapidly provide links where you can read the answers.
EX: Google "catalpa seed germination" gets you many links. One is to the Thompson-Morgan Seed Germination Database which covers every species you can think of and which you can print out free of charge.
Also, if you will search this forum (use search bar at bottom of the page) by name of seed you'll find previous germination discussions on most of them. I found instructions posted for most all on your list.
Good luck.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: TM Seed Germination Database
Thanks for helping, heres some successfull results i found with the palo verde seeds: using a pair of nailclippers snip a piece off the seeds, not thick just enough to get through the seed coat, then soak in water, i had roots appear in 3-4days, i will get back info on others when i find results
Starting from cuttings in a greenhouse with bottom heat would be fastest, but you would need a source for the cuttings. Seed is cheap and easy but about a year slower, and would need to also be grown and transplanted. Lavender as you are planning to use it, will get tall and woody within 10 years even with yearly pruning. Rosemary might be better suited among several other plants. Al
You are growing a coast redwood in a container permanently? If that is the case, I would suggest looking in the container forum for soil suggestions as well as root pruning techniques. A redwood will soon outgrow any container unless treated as Bonsaii. If you are only keeping it in a container until it is large enough to plant in the garden your soil mix will do. Al
Fantastic, I really appreciate the info. Sounds like the same method I had to use on my canna seeds. Boy, were they hard! Ended up having to use a drill, but got 100% germination. I'll start poking those little buggers right away. Again, thanks a bunch nckvilledudes.
Geraniums as pelargonium or geraniums as hardy geranium?
pelargonium I just check the seeds before leaving for work and was surprised to see emerging plants.