6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

From the FAQ here:

To find out the germination requirements of a specific plant type the plant name + germination into an internet search engine. There are literally hundreds of thousands of plants with different germination requirements. A search engine can rapidly provide links where you can read the answers.

EX: Google "catalpa seed germination" gets you many links. One is to the Thompson-Morgan Seed Germination Database which covers every species you can think of and which you can print out free of charge.

Also, if you will search this forum (use search bar at bottom of the page) by name of seed you'll find previous germination discussions on most of them. I found instructions posted for most all on your list.

Good luck.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: TM Seed Germination Database

Thanks for helping, heres some successfull results i found with the palo verde seeds: using a pair of nailclippers snip a piece off the seeds, not thick just enough to get through the seed coat, then soak in water, i had roots appear in 3-4days, i will get back info on others when i find results

My acorn plants are in a big pot and growing well. I want to know when should I move repot individual plants.

I have a couple with 5 inches tall with 5 leaves. I planted them in September 08, it's been now over 2 months. Thanks.

At the size you have now I would transplant. Oaks send down a tap root when very small and may be difficult if the root is too deep and wrapped around each other. Al

Fantastic, I really appreciate the info. Sounds like the same method I had to use on my canna seeds. Boy, were they hard! Ended up having to use a drill, but got 100% germination. I'll start poking those little buggers right away. Again, thanks a bunch nckvilledudes.

No problem.

that last link is very cool, and helpful. I'll definitely book mark that one. Thanks for sharing it.

I lOVE that site. Jjust need to give fair warning to those on dial-up. Its an extremely heavy site.

my berries are green will they change colors to white and when do I harvest them?

My berries have green for months.some have dried & turned tan. There is still moisture inside. When is the best time to harvest?

Theresa

To most of the world, Mountain Laurel refers to Kalmia latifolia Linne. The plant is assigned to the Heath family or Ericaceae. The use of a common or local name as You have done exhibits the complete futility of such a name. When Kalmia is used, anyone, anywhere in the world will completely understand what You are trying to convey.

This is out of"How to grow Native Plants" by Jill Nokes. GREAT BOOK!!! for those who like texas natives. Seeds may be scarified with a knife or file. Or soak them in concentrated sulfuric acid for 30-90 minutes Pre treated seeds will germinate in 2-3 weeks once the soil has warmed The medium should be extremely well draining and drenched with fungicide. Use a deep pot to germinate in , not a flat. Grow in shade for the first year before you put it out in the blazing sun. They will grow in the shade and partial shade but they bloom better the more sun they get. There is a silver leafed variety

To the out of state person who was worried about cold hardiness. They do Zone 8. Central Tx gets into the teens pretty much every winter for a brief period. Normally one or two nights and then it warms up in the day. We do not stay below freezing but rarely during the winter. Last year we had a 3 days of continuous below freezing wet weather. YUCK. We have trees all over town and we have trees indigenous to our hills. On the map , I think thast we are the furthest north that the natural habitat goes. You see them growing in the wild on limestone hills with perfect drainage. It might be a thing of moisture and cold combined that does them in. Cold and wet might be the bugger and that is why they grow in west Texas but not in Texarcana.

I have used a stationary belt sander to nick my seeds and I have put them out a bit before the soil warms totally. I find the rot problems increases as the weather warms. Rot is the problem. I have many seeds that have rot in the pot before germinating.

Thanks for the follow ups. I went ahead and planted some arugula and some dianthus. I know the dianthus is iffy but I started it inside. Seems like I planted some outside pretty late last year.
Thanks for the tips on the flowers. I have some daylily seed that I can plant. Any other specifics?
I am planning to "wintersow" some things too. I just can't wait and wanted to get started:) Nikki

Take dianthus outside, it is tough cookie and will do fine, put in unheated garage or make shift cold frame- box from few bags of leaves with clear plastic on top. Diascia and snaps will do great if started now. So are multiple primulas.
I hav started tons of plants already and will take them into sunroom porch in Feb- those I started perennials I want to have lrgish side but the spring. Of course, winterswing seeds are going separately, those I do not mind being tiny seedlings in the spring.

I had success with the folowing:

Caltha palustris Marsh Marigold-fresh seed-warm strat Oct 30 for approx 60 days then wintersowed on Jan 1. germination occured in May.

Gentiana andrewsii and flavida-wintersowed (cold strat) on surface (need light) bottom watered germination occured in late May.

Veronicastrum virginicum- wintersowed in Jan on surface (need light) bottom watered as needed germination occured in late May.

I sowed Cimifuga last winter-no germination yet-I read that it may need alternating warm cold warm cycles or 1 full year.

Rhonda

Dandy
there is one product you might want to try- GA-3/ read more on JL Hudson seedsman website.
If you are experienced, it is most likely seeds. Caltha requires fresh seeds and cold strat and just right amount of moisture, would not worry about this one and buy a plant instead. Aconitums require fresh seed and warm cold warm. If the seed is dry, you might or might not get lucky. I say that Gardens North have good variety of aconitums and they send them moist preserved, or try a personal trade with someone who grows them.
Aquilegia germinates like a charm with GA-3, otherwise you need cold strat, perfect for winter sowing/ check with winter sowing forum FAQ for details/
Clematis herbaceous like recta purpurea good for WS, will take several and I mean several months to germinate.
Genitana does like a charm with GA-3 otherwise winter sowing. Make sure do not water or drip from overhead as seed is tiny.
Astilboides/ rodersia, seed is tiny, warm germinator- see above- do not water from overhead. That is mostly depends on the seeds.
Have not done much cims but found babies in the garden so they need to be winter sown.
Thalictrums are notoriously hard to germinate, needlong cold strat or GA-3 will improve germination dramatically.
Stylophorum diphyllum reseeds like a weed in my garden, cold strat will do it any time.
This is all from my personal experience and I have done it multiple times. If you need more seeds to try I will be happy to send your way, check my trade list. I have cimic simplex? ramosa? seeds are ready and Jack Compton just finished bloom.

If you plant the seeds in cow pots, it would be better for the plant. The plant would not get "root-bound" like in peat pots, nor do you have to tear the peat pot as commenly done. I think Cow Pots is a much better pot all around. So much so, I started selling them and I agree with alot of people that they are pricey, but that are all around a better product than peat. These are my prices. I can deliver for free with in the Columbia & Hallsville Missouri surrounding area.
My prices:
(12) 3" pots $4.80 (tax & shipping not included)
(12) 4" pots $6.00 (tax & shipping not included)
(700)3" pots $252 (tax & shipping not included)
(300)4" pots $135 (tax & shipping not included)
Call for larger orders. I am the cheapest prices you will find. If not, Please let me know.

I've just been looking at them online and came here to see if anyone else already posted thread.

Cheapest price found is 12/$8.49 (plus shipping) for 4" which is expensive even when starting just a couple hundred seedlings...mostly flowers.

My goal is to avoid transplant shock but I'm winter sowing a number of things outdoors and wasn't sure if they'd hold up to winter weather even though placed in draining Sterlite containers (already have) with clear sheeting domed on top.

Also considered them for starting more select items under lights as needed to get some things to good size and bloom for late spring/early summer.

They are attractive option. Never used peat pots. Was wondering if newspaper pots achieved same avoidance of transplant shock but assumed they'd be gloppy mess in winter sown containers by Spring. Assume roots can penetrate thawed newspaper pots as well as Cow Pots but without built-in nutrient benefits.

Only my second year growing from seed and I still don't have a "system" set in my mind and plans. Takes time and experience to get this process down!

Looks like Cow Pots would be good option for reducing transplant shock if one can afford them in quantities larger than 12 but less than 300-700. Assume leftovers can be stored from one year to next but this time of year seeds and soilless starting mix as well as fall conditioning items have already added up cost wise. That, and my father is already threatening to trash all the supplies I already have spread around basement, garage, back deck/patio and piles of decomposing leaves/grass.

I still have to buy a better light set up for more coverage area/better control as seedlings got leggy using Dad's shop light last winter/early spring and didn't have enough room for all seedlings needing early start to bloom first year. Yes, I know I should build my own light set up but not mechanically or electrically inclinded in the least.

Cow Pot website says they're available at local Whole Foods markets but presume they're as comparatively expensive as most of their items.