6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed


George is correct, there is no one answer. I'm assuming that when you say seedling you're growing from seed. Seeds are a product of sexual reproduction (sperm+egg, pollen+egg) and whenever sexual production occurs, the results (flowers) of the seedlings will not be known, because of the complicated genetics involved (allels crossing over, mutations/errors in meiosis, etc.) There are seeds that 'come true' meaning they look like their parents, but I am willing to say there are small, minor differences on a molecular level.
Some cultivar seedlings may revert back to their 'generic' forms. I'm not sure on this on a scientific level, but I have found that variegated plant or something 'golden' (like pothos) will revert to a pure green form if it doesn't receive enough light. Albino seedlings (pure white seedlings) will not survive because they lack chlorophyll and therefore cannot make their own food.

Good question. I have been gathering a bunch of seedheads of various plants. I want to make an area on my boulevard that is about 10'X20' and was a former tulip bed. Many of the tulips will come up next spring but after they flower I want a wild flower type garden there.
I have four boxes of wildflower seeds from last year plus what I have and will gather. The ground is bare and weed free, tilled and ready to scatter seeds. Will most of them do ok if I just scatter the seeds and rake them in after our first hard frost?
I'm in zone 4 and temps now are 40's at night and 50-65 during the day for another week or so, then we should get some nights of below 32.



I take everything into my greenhouse in the fall - we have a propane heater my hubby cranks up when it's supposed to freeze and haven't lost anything yet (10 years). I've already taken my cutting from the hibiscus, bouganvillas and everything else possible and have them ready to put in the greenhouse for winter. We had tomatoes in 10 gallong planters last year and had tomatoes until January. Try anything, but don't start your spring seeds too early or they will be skinny and not thrive. Good luck.

You could start lavender seed now outside in zone 10, where it should still be warm enough to germinate within 30 days. You will need to be sure to keep the seed bed damp yourself if the rainy season has not started. Lavender seed will germinate without stratification and will grow right through the winter where you live. Al

Take tip cuttings of firm new growth. apply 0.1% IBA (Rooting hormone) stick in well drained soil & mist takes 25-80 days to root.
This time of the year many of the seed pods should be mature & may be dried in a paper bag... be sure seed pods are full & plump.
The plant often self seeds so look around the base of the plant for seedlings

My experience has been that ROS often do not come true from saved seed.
I have Bluebird and it has reseeded and the resulting babies have been a variety of colors.
I'd say the only 'sure' way of getting the exact variety would be starting them from cuttings.
Sue

I don't know if this will be of any help. I plant my daylily seeds in a mixture of 2 parts of peat moss, 1 of vermiculite and 1 of perlite. I add water and soak it overnight before filling the cups. I buy the big bale of peat moss, so it cuts down on the cost. I punch holes in the bottoms and around the bottom edge of styrofoam cups, and fill them with the mix. (16 oz plastic drink cups will do, too.) I set them in aluminum foil roasting pans, and fill the pans with water. Once the seeds get their second set of leaves, I start adding one scoop of Schultz's Expert Plant Food to a gallon of water, and keep them in that solution until I am ready to transplant them. It is easy to slide out the plants, "soil" and all when ready to transplant.
I just recently bought a mini green house, which is actually 4 shelves, with a zippered plastic cover that fits over it. It was only $30. It holds the pans of cups perfectly.
You could also get some inexpensive plastic storage bins at Wal-Mart, drill holes in the bottom and set them in the aluminum foil pans. Just a few ideas for you.
Don't try and move the pans if they are full of water and cups, as they will bend on you. I remove the cups, throw out the water every few days, put the cups back in and refill with fresh water.

Thanks for the tip!
Do you HAVE to transplant? Or can you just stick the paper pot in the ground, eventually?
Does the last flap of the paper cup have to be secured? Setting it upright and putting soil in isn't enough to keep the flap closed?
Thanks!

Haven't given up yet, am trying again, wanna get it right!
I used a seed starting mix, covered just a bit over the seed as the pkg said. Waited three weeks? Shouldn't I see something happen by now, other flowers & veggies, sweet basil all came up & are fine. Any suggestions? Thanks!

i heard and tried (the paper towel method of starting seeds), and it worked like magic.i use it for the seeds that i have problems with including purple coneflowers and gaillardia.cuts down on germination time.i then take the sprouted seeds and then put them in pots. let me know how you make out.


I would probably plant them out, where they might get some protection if you have or know of a location. I would then mulch heavily later.
Here is a thread that discusses seeds dropping and germinating naturally. Tell me about winter aconite Evidently little shallowly naturally planted seedling make it just fine in nature. I'd get them planted out asap...not very deep, and then sometime b4 the ground freezes, add the mulch.
Sue...wishing you well...love aconites!


Yes!!!!!!