6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

OK, that makes more sense. Those 'seeds' attached to the stalk at leaf axils are bulbils (baby bulbs) :) These don't often produce mature seed in North America is what I'm reading.

Plant them now, either in your garden or in pots - don't try to hold them until Spring.

FYI - we have similar taste. I was in one of our local nurseries yesterday checking availability of a shrub my neighbor wants - a lilium tigrinum/tiger lily in bloom caught my eye and followed me home. I'm not even sure yet where it's going to fit in, just somewhere.

    Bookmark     August 30, 2008 at 6:58PM
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friesfan1(5b NW-KS)

Thanks Morz8,

I think the older I get, the more I like the old fashioned
type plants. The plants in question have been in the same
spot since I moved there in 1992. So, I like they they are
long lived. I sure hope the baby bulbs grow, if not
I am going to go dig them up and move the whole plant next
spring.

I try to stay out of nurseries, I always end up bringing
something home and then not having a place to put it.
Hence, 5 plants in pots in my yard right now that need homes....
arrgh!

    Bookmark     August 30, 2008 at 7:33PM
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dirtbert(z4)

You would either want to put the lights on chains so you could lower and raise them to keep them within a couple of inches of your seedlings; or be prepared to raise the seedling tray up and then down as the seedlings grow.

I start a lot of seeds early in the house and use typical flourescent lights for this, no special bulbs required. Although you do want the light directly above the seedlings, even if it means you need several lights next to each other. Otherwise your seedlings will grow spindly towards the light.

Hope that helps :)

    Bookmark     August 30, 2008 at 12:27AM
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gnomey(7b SC zip296)

I've grown under grow lights before.. and I have to say I was a bit disappointed. I am going to try something new this year and winter sow my seeds. It's almost free, as you recycle containers and don't use electricity. Also, I don't have a lot of room inside and the grow light setup that we had in my mom's garage has been pushed to the corner since my dad started raising angelfish.

There is a winter sowing forum here or you can visit wintersown.org for more information.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wintersown

    Bookmark     August 30, 2008 at 3:08PM
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sewobsessed

Both are also perfect candidates for wintersowing.
:)

WinterSowing Forum

OR

Wintersown.org

    Bookmark     August 22, 2008 at 10:37AM
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sweetpea_410(z3-4)

How do you know when to harvest coneflower seedheads? I have some that look pretty dry on the plant, but they still feel as if they are moist. Also, I just dug up some wild coreopsis and transplanted them to my garden. Will they come back next year?

    Bookmark     August 30, 2008 at 7:43AM
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lemecdutex(z15 CA Petaluma)

Gnomey, yes, I believe excluding light helps on pansies, as long as you have one of those clear lids over the flat before you put down the newspaper. I think you get better germination at about 65°F, so put them in a cool spot. I think it's too early to start sweet peas in lower elevation portions of SC, but I think it's OK for snaps and alyssum. I usually started poppies and sweet peas (as well as larkspur) in October.

T-Tomatoes, it will take considerably more than 2 weeks for snaps to germinate, about the earliest I've had is about 18 or so days, so I'd advise patience, as well as for the nasturtiums and echinaceas. Nasturtiums might want cooler weather than what you'd be having now.

--Ron

    Bookmark     August 15, 2008 at 6:48PM
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tumblingtomatoes

thanks, sorry I did't get to reply sooner, power outages in area, bad rains, etc. will try your advice!

    Bookmark     August 29, 2008 at 3:25PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

1) Damaged during storage 2) many species require FRESH seed to germinaate 3) Seed needed to be soakes 24 hours in water before planted 4) soil temperature needed to be above 75F 5) seed were not viable when harvested

    Bookmark     August 28, 2008 at 1:50PM
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allan0410e(5)

rjinga: yes as george5il says, and separating the chaff from the seed is a heartbreaking challenge. I do not even try anymore just pick out the seeds at time of planting or plant chaff and all !!!! How the seed companies do it would be interesting to know.

    Bookmark     August 26, 2008 at 8:01PM
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protea_king(Western Cape)

I've just sown some basil from seeds collected at the end of last summer. I've decided to propagate them in my heated propagator as the weather outside is still rather chilly and there could very well be a frost. I used a general compost and just covered the seeds with a layer of sieved compost. This is my first time growing basil from seed so I hope I have some good results! If I can get enough plants I'd like to make lots and lots of pesto.

    Bookmark     August 28, 2008 at 10:40AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Are your seeds fresh? Druse, Making More Plants (suggestions most often for fresh seed) says 30 days moist cold, followed by approx 70F for germination in additional 14-60 days, so variable

Clothiers (using dry stored seed) moist cold 90 days followed by sow at 70F. No reference as to how long they take to germinate there, but most databases report up to 90 - I wouldn't give up until at least 3 months have passed, hopefully you are collecting fresh seed and won't have that long to wait.

    Bookmark     August 27, 2008 at 10:42AM
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clint.stevens(9)

yeah, they're fresh i picked them right off the tree.

    Bookmark     August 28, 2008 at 7:05AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Store seed at 40F for 12 weeks the lightly cover seed soil temp 65-70F taking 120-365 days to germinate. Plant will NOT be like parent & may take 5+ years to flower

    Bookmark     August 26, 2008 at 4:27PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Most cultivars do not come true from seed (F2 geeneration)
Most of the seed will need a 12 week cold period (40F) to germinate. may want to try winter sow

    Bookmark     August 26, 2008 at 4:24PM
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magickcrafter

sorry for the duplicate post.. computer froze

    Bookmark     August 25, 2008 at 1:58PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Let seed dry for at least 8 weeks & then store dry at 40F for 12 weeks.

    Bookmark     August 24, 2008 at 2:36PM
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maggie_berry(z6CT)

I found what I was looking for under FAQ!
Sorry, I forgot that FAQ was even available.
Maggie

    Bookmark     August 23, 2008 at 9:09PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Cupressus sempervirens (Italian Cypress) Seed - sow late winter in a cold frame and only just cover the seed, or 3 weeks cold stratification can improve germination. Germinates in 1 - 2 months at 68F following chill. The seedlings are very subject to damping off so should be kept well-ventilated. Plant out in Fall. Seed, stored dry and cool, may be viable at least a few years.

Taxus - Yew in general, types may vary - Clean Seed (and wash hands after) Moist warm 90 days followed by moist cold (approx 40F) 90 days, followed by moist warm again 90 days. Final, barely cover, 70F, germination may take 365 days or longer.

    Bookmark     August 23, 2008 at 6:00PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

sINCE THIS SEED DOES NOT REQUIRE A COLD PERIOD TO GERMINATE YOU "MAY" PLANT/SOW IN FALL OR SPRING.... YOUR CHOICE..... IF DO NOT COVER THE SEED ESAY TO GERMINATE.

    Bookmark     August 19, 2008 at 4:30PM
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rjinga

george, do you litterally just lay the seed on the ground? And PUT NOTHING ON TOP OF IT? how do the seeds stay in place?

    Bookmark     August 23, 2008 at 2:48PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I've placed a winter order with them several years with great results - reliable germination and interesting selection.

    Bookmark     August 19, 2008 at 10:29AM
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winsorw(8)

Thank you both for the info.

    Bookmark     August 22, 2008 at 10:28PM
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