6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

It is not showing up well, but there is kind of a green moss starting to grow on the upper portion of the soil in the container. All of the damp off horror stories have me nervous.

Jeff

That is algae. It implies that the surface is a bit too wet but the seedlings are fine. You could carefully stir up the surface a bit with a table fork to let in a bit more air if you want to. But if there are more basil seeds to germinate yet you need to be careful.

Did you soak the seed? If they were soaked and then put into cold damp ground where they were unable to germinate they are even more likely to rot.

Hi,
I've had the same problem. So I started them indoors and transferred them to bigger containers before putting them in the garden. I would suggest always after the last frost before transplanting in the garden. I always do multiple containers as some of the seeds turn to mush. Bush beans are a difficult plant until they take off.

For me, that wouldn't work very well.

I have critters that have been bitten by irradiated spiders and that are coursing underground at high rates of speed so most direct-seeded plants in my back yard have a very short life indeed.

Zinnias can do well if you don't mess with their roots, so planting in blocks or cups or pellets can work with them if you're aiming to get them thick enough aforehand to be too much to gnaw on by little teeny mutant mouths.

BUT, the real question is why everything died, innit? What was different this year from last?

PS:

One, greenhouse kits and lights are not really an answer. They're tools to solve particular problems and not worth diddly if you don't know what the problems really be.

Two, ignore what the packets say about germination times and maturity dates. It's all hype and the guys who write that don't know squat about you or your (micro) climate.

Speaking of which, you're on a world wide site and you don't say where you are. It's 85 degrees here and other peeps are seeing ice...

I am sure Dave is right about the footprint, but practically speaking, two double lamp fixtures (4 bulbs) are what most people use successfully for 4 standard sized trays of seedlings. With the narrower t-8 fixtures, some of my shelves have 3 double bulb lamps, but I am not seeing a big difference in the plant health / size., Nor do I see much difference in the plants that are "between" the bulbs, as opposed to directly under them.

I second Mandolls' thoughts. Here is my set-up.

No issues with 2 sets of t8's lighting 4 standard and 1 half tray. The trays the peppers are in are smaller than standard trays so I can easily light 5 of those trays. I too don't see much difference in the plants that fall between light bulbs.

Don't overthink it :)

Are you using grow lights? I starts seeds in a looser mix, either seed starting mix or a potting soil vermiculite mixture, it makes it easier for the roots to spread. Usually leggy plants are stretching to get light, it is important to keep seedlings 2-3 inches under a florescent light.

They were under grow lights. not very far from the light, but I moved them outside before the stretching began. I now have maybe 4 seedlings that are alive. The others shriveled and died. i said screw it and planted new seeds straight into the ground.

Are these seeds that you saved yourself? If not, I wouldn't bother with fermentation. It is my understanding that fermentation is done when seed saving (i.e. the fall), not in the spring when planting. I have never fermented my seeds, although I don't save tomato seeds. If I did I would be fermenting in the fall.

That's my take.

They should sit in tomato "meat" and juice and gel and just add enough water that they don't dry out. It's possible that chlorine in the water would kill the organisms needed for fermentation.

Thanks a bunch! Yeah, I read that after I posted- I'll edit my post (now that I see we have that ability) so it's more relevant.

Thank you all for the information. I am learning a lot from this forum. I did use heat pads and domes. Didn't use lights and plants are still really pretty small. Added lights a few days ago and see improvement already. Im a newbie, what can I say. May have to buy plants again this year but hopefully next year I will be better prepared. Will for sure use basement and lights from the beginning.

Zinnas grow so rapidly that starting them indoors isn't generally recommended. They work best when direct seeded as many don't survive transplanting them.

But if you want to do them indoors then wait until approx. 2 weeks before the time they can go outside to start them as they will be ready to transplant within that time.

If you read through all the FAQs here on how to grow from seed - they apply to most everything including zinnas - you'll find answers to most any basic question including lights and how to use them. The effect on your electrical bill from fluorescent shop lights is minimal unless you set up a big operation of multiple fixtures.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from seed FAQs

Hi Beethie,

I haven't begun my zinnia seeds yet, but if I do start them indoors it will be two or three weeks before I would put them outdoors since they grow fast. I will probably just direct sow them in a few weeks.
I have been growing tomatoes, peppers, impatiens, canterbury bells, various herbs, and morning glory vines. I started the slowest growing plants at the beginning of March. I have four shoplights set up.
As for my electric bill, I don't recall what it was last month. I don't think there was a big increase or I would have remembered.

You don't have to start over from scratch but they will need some gradual re-adjusting after days indoors. right back to 8 hours would be a big change.

Yeah, planting seeds when the weather is like this is one things - plants something else. :)

Dave

Thanks, Dave. I'll watch the forecast and hope it looks up. Tomorrow's high is supposed to be in the 30's again, so I fear these plants will not be outside again for a few days at least. Ahhhh spring. :-)