6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Cupressus sempervirens (Italian Cypress) Seed - sow late winter in a cold frame and only just cover the seed, or 3 weeks cold stratification can improve germination. Germinates in 1 - 2 months at 68F following chill. The seedlings are very subject to damping off so should be kept well-ventilated. Plant out in Fall. Seed, stored dry and cool, may be viable at least a few years.
Taxus - Yew in general, types may vary - Clean Seed (and wash hands after) Moist warm 90 days followed by moist cold (approx 40F) 90 days, followed by moist warm again 90 days. Final, barely cover, 70F, germination may take 365 days or longer.
Phormium tenax - best sown fresh, barely covered, @55-65F. Germination in 30-180 days.
The hybrids like the one you mention are generally vegetatively propagated - genetically identical to their parents. Not so with seed raised plants  the seedlings will all be genetically different - will produce plants with an assortment (of genes!) of foliage colors, heights
hmm maybe you're right, they were definatley not the shape of the pics you posted, they did look like a normal tree shape.
i searched for some pics of the italian cypress and nearly all are that shape you posted, but one or two are like this
so yes the trees I saw looked just like the last pic, so i'm guessing they were pretty old and it also says the italian cypress is typically used in cemeteries too, so i guess it must be that. thanks :]
RIGHT NOW I HAVE PART OF THE ANSWER...... Select early-blooming varities and plant 5-6 bulbs to a 6 inch pot. cover the bulb with 1/2 inch of well drained potting mix. give 6 weeks of near freezing temp. bring into light and grow on with 50F night temp. day temp 50 to 80F will regulate speed of growth/flowering.
Thanks for the info. That appears to be the fruit. One of the things that puzzle me is that in my searches, I only find reference to a Maylasian plum. An oval fruit that has a faint rose hue when ripe. Same genus name. Incidently, dicot is the family name of this plant, any relation?
Thanks Tom. I'll mix up some H202. I started these in pellets because I didn't have a container ready for planting. My garden is limited to the deck these days. Tomorrow I'll get these few seedlings in the ground along with some new corn.
I've been looking at pics of mychorrhizal fungi online, and had myself halfway convinced that was what I was looking at here.
As for the water - I was afraid they would dry out on the heating pad. It's been several years since I started seeds of anything.
Do you presoak your corn kernels before planting?
If you keep them covered, they won't dry out. They will just be in a very humid environment.
I don't presoak because it's catch as catch can to get them planted. I usually plant as I have time and not on a schedule. I don't think it hurts anyhow. I just have never presoaked my seeds.
Good gardening,
Tom
Actually you will need at three years before you can harvest your asparagus. This lets the plant to establish itself, and become a better producer. Picking too soon will take strength from the plant and it will not produce as it should. Also the variety you have is both male and female plants and will produce seed each year. The best time to plant where you asre located is a guess for me, I would think that the spring would be the best. I live in zone 7 and that is what I would do. If you plant this late in the year the new roots will not get enough time to establish healthy roots. Also you might pick a very few plants the second year, but I would wait for the third year.
Thats what I'm doing with what I'm growing from seed. After its ready I'll graft it from one of my nursery purchased trees. Even without grafting IMO there would be a good chance of getting something viable but I'm in the south and need to make sure it sets with low chill hours ;)
Go to youtube and search "grafting trees videos"(without quotes) You will get about 40 vids demonstrating various techniques. I'd just beg a branch from granmas tree when they prune and then graft onto nursury rootstock. Lots faster than growing from seed.
This year I had about 70 to 90 seedlings pop up in the gravel between stepping stones under my arbor. My experience has been the same as Lisas'.
Some plants do best with lean, infertil soil, and little to no covering of soil.
I guess if I was trying to grow them indoors, I would try some experiments. Some in sand, some in potting mix, some in perlite, etc.
It gets cool in the evenings where I live, so I can grow columbine in the spring or fall. I typically start mine early in the spring and I do like to winter sow them.
Columbine require light to germinate. Sprinkle on the top of soil and don't cover. You can press them lightly into the soil too. I don't press but water mine into the soil.
Columbine can have a longer germination time. I read up to 25 days. You have to be patient. :)
I know this sounds old fashioned.
Your plant wants its first fruit to have everything.
If you can, take your first fruit, let it ripen on the vine, then harvest it when you can no longer bear it.
Take its seed and wash and cleanse it as carefully as you can. Let it dry naturally in a cool place.
When the seeds are dry, store them in a air tight container until you need them.
I grew a veggie garden for years, and the best peppers I ever grew came from a store-bought thick walled huge bell.
I just saved the seeds on a whim. Let dry on a paper towel, and stored in a screw top jar.
I've seen directions for saving tomatoes, but cant remember them. I think they have to float in water. One great thing about tommies, they stay viable for years.
Pondy
Let seed dry for at least 8 weeks & then store dry at 40F for 12 weeks.