6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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angelady777 (was angelady on GW) - Zone 6(6)

Thanks so much for the tip on taping them to the window! That just gave me a whole lot more space. hee hee

I can't believe it, but it worked for me, too. I am dropping them in paper pots filled nearly to the top with soil and adding a little soil over top of the seedling right now.

There doesn't seem to be any real good info on what to do and when based on seeing a root develop and/or a stem... I am not waiting to see the stem, just going for it now with the root showing. I sure hope I'm doing this right.

~Angela

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 3:49PM
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catankgirl

I just started the coffee filter baggie method less than a month ago, and let me just say that it is amazing! I collected seed from various plants, dianthus, snapdragon, alysum and they all sprouted within days. I'm also starting some store bought seed for periennals for fall planting. I'm experimenting with transfering them in different ways right now.

I have also yet to read exactly when is the best time to remove from the baggie and transfer to soil, so I do it when they have their two little "starter" leaves. (I forget the technial term.) I figure I shouldn't wait longer than that, but having those two little leaves going to put above soil really helps me.

Once they sprout I put them in little soiled filled newspaper pots or yogurt cups. If they fall off the coffee filter easily, I do it that way. If they are "stuck," I cut up the coffee filter and leave them attached to that and put them together in the soil. The FAQ has a tip about using a toothpick which can be handy to have on hand when doing this.

Once in a little soil, I leave them in the windowsill right below where they were taped in the baggie for one full day. But I figure they need to get in full sun as soon as possible. Plus, I get sick of moving them in and out and squirting them with a water bottle. So I just spend a few days setting them outside for longer bits each day, then after that, leave them out.

Right now I'm just trying different things with different plants as far as when I'm planting them in ground versus leaving them in some kind of little plastic pot or yogurt container. But either way, I also want them outside asap, I also hate keeping things with dirt inside as it's messy and attracts bugs and my kids can knock them over, lol. That is why I love this method as they are only inside in dirt a few days at most. They are either in a baggie where I can glance as to their progress however much I want but doesn't take constant watering, but they get planted and acclimated to the outdoor environment rathar quickly. But then again, I live in a mild climate and have a small house without the whole light set-up deal, so maybe that is why it works well for me.

Good luck, and definately check back what works well for you!

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 11:02PM
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davemichigan(zone 6a (SE Michigan))

barbidwire, are you sure you are using the seeds and not the chafs? Sorry if this sound too obivous, but I have seen people confusing the two.

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 10:34PM
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catankgirl

I just started some using the coffee filter/baggie method taped to the inside of my kitchen window. Sprouted in a few days. From a pack of seeds I bought, not collected though.

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 10:44PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

The most important thing is that the surface be damp (not driping wet) for germination. So I usually water the seed from the top rather than the bottom..... & No the top on will only promote the growth of fungi/mold

    Bookmark     August 4, 2008 at 1:07PM
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letranger

Thank you so much for responding. I guess these are often acquired knowledge from experience that new gardeners don't know of; we new thumbs always try to go by all the rules I guess!!

This is so far how the seeds are coming up..

On the left are lavender, top centre lemon balm, botton centre lemon grass, right rocket.

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 4:39PM
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appaloosa909(6b Central NJ)

The white fuzzy seeds sound right....

I have had a whole flat of almost-ready-to- plant Dalsburgs die when watered from the top by mistake.... I now put that flat in a seperate section of my greenhouse and only water from the bottom until I plant out.

Good luck!
Andrea

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 9:07AM
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ltheironimus(7 North Texas)

Hi ya'll - I've collected my seed and now am just wondering - after pressing into the potting soil and bottom watering - approximately how long does it take (our temps are in the high 90's) for them to germinate?

Thanks again for all the help.

Linda

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 4:19PM
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ncgardengirl

Days to Germinate: 10-21Days to Harvest: 55-60 So, yes you basically add them together, it is misleading I know.

:) Fran

    Bookmark     July 31, 2008 at 1:18AM
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john3(7a)

I've wondered about that too. Haven't done so yet, but I'd recommend you call your county ag. extension service to ask that question. The staff should know whether that number is from sowing or sprouting. Let us know.

    Bookmark     August 5, 2008 at 1:35PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

They will fruite BUT^ the real question is the quality of the fruit & that question can only be answered when it starts to bear fruit. Poor taisting plants/low production should be destroyed

    Bookmark     August 4, 2008 at 1:10PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

While readily available premixed in most garden centers, most commercial sowing media here is approximately equal parts peat (you could substitute coir) and vermiculite, sometimes with some perlite added. If starting plants that require alkaline soil, a bit of lime may be added.

You'll want to moisten it before preparing your pots - the correct amount of moisture and it will feel about as damp as a well wrung out sponge, not soggy.

Seedlings will normally be moved out of this mix and into their own pots when they have developed their second set of true leaves, but garden soil still is not recommended for potted plants, too heavy in almost every case. You can buy a ready made mix if you don't want to purchase ingredients to make your own and improve it by adding more vermiculite, peat, perlite, or horticultural grit (similar to parakeet gravel).

    Bookmark     August 4, 2008 at 12:40PM
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bu4ic

Thanks for the input. I've planted irish moss seeds in trays and I should hopefully see something in a couple of weeks.

    Bookmark     April 23, 2007 at 10:53PM
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janice1

I have a patio started but was never completed. I want to propagate moss from my yard (put in a blender with buttermilk/yogurt and pour between rocks). Right now what I have between the rocks is shat. My question is what do I need to put between the rocks before I pour on the mixture? Sand? Soil?

Thanks for your help
Janice

    Bookmark     August 4, 2008 at 11:23AM
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lgslgs(z6 SE ohio)

Here's a site that may help you with that.

Lynda

Here is a link that might be useful: seedling photos

    Bookmark     August 3, 2008 at 6:24PM
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wildestdreamsgardendesign(z5VT)

Now I can't see the picture at all. Just a red square.

    Bookmark     August 3, 2008 at 4:06PM
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lindago1(z7OK)
    Bookmark     August 3, 2008 at 3:26PM
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tomakers(SE MA Zone 5/6 or ?)

I found the cheapest ones at Ocean State Job Lot. I think one of your local outlet stores is the best place, at the end of the season. I really haven't seen them cheap any where else.

    Bookmark     July 24, 2008 at 10:54PM
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tomakers(SE MA Zone 5/6 or ?)

I also use newspaper pots when I pot up. I have used them for a couple of years now and they can't be beat.
JMO,
Tom

    Bookmark     August 2, 2008 at 10:36PM
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ankraras(8/9AZ)

Malpighia glabra?

It has been more than a few years since I grew any from seeds. I mail ordered 100 seeds and most sprouted within two weeks.

The dream of the quick tropical jungle only to be defeated by the cold shoulder of mother nature.

    Bookmark     August 2, 2008 at 3:30PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Hot, dry conditions are best for preventing powdery mildew.

The plants are grown similarly to cucumbers. Caution is in order because Kiwanos have a "weedy" nature; they are vigorous climbers and robust plants which can quickly take over. The fruit forms in clusters with the fruit closest to the plant center maturing first. They have to be cut from the vine, gloves should be worn, and care taken not to puncture a neighboring fruit with the spines.

USDA storage recommendations are 50° to 60°F at 90 percent relative humidity, with an approximate storage life of 6 months. Do not stack the fruit as the spines can puncture other fruit. (the spines on the fruit you purchased may have been sanded to dull them for shipment)

    Bookmark     July 3, 2006 at 11:41AM
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tumblingtomatoes

this is interesting, thanks for posting, I have some seed from yesterday which we loved the flavor! Crazy looking fruit, interesting, am gona try to plant mine now too!

    Bookmark     August 2, 2008 at 10:23AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Looking at your zone, the couple of things I see that could be problematic would be your temp depending on what you are sowing (not everything will germinate when it's warmer than necessary, and there are seeds that need quite cool temps) and, you may have trouble keeping your seed pots moist outdoors.

But I sow outdoors in pots often, especially those perennials that do best sown immediately after harvesting seed, or I'll late summer sow (in pots) those things that need a warm period, followed by a chill, then warm again.

You can skip the sterilizing of your soil, nothing outdoors is sterile and damp off shouldn't be an issue when not germinating in an enclosed environment. I hope you meant to use a commercial soil or mix though, and not garden soil - too heavy in almost every case.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2008 at 12:36AM
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dicot

Socalgirl, my suggestion (and preference) in LA is to germinate outdoors using flats with fast draining sterile soil or indoors using the coffee filter/plastic baggie method (see link). I germinate outside 12 months a year using no specialized equipment. We are so different than most of the US that suggestions from these forums can be confusing.

With the baggie method, I transplant into 6-packs of fast draining soil as soon as the root develops and the cotelydon breaks free of the seed coat. With the flats, I either transplant into 4" containers or directly into the ground when the seedling reaches the 4 true leaves stage.

Check the FAQs section at the top of the "Growing From Seed" forum page, there is also a discussion on the hunk-o-seedlings method, which people sometime resort to wjen we have to many seeds.

I would never bother with the complicated systems people in other region use out of necessity, but a good heat mat can make a difference in cool months. Just about every seed has an ideal temperature at which it wants to germinate.

Here is a link that might be useful: baggie method

    Bookmark     July 31, 2008 at 8:16PM
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gnomey(7b SC zip296)

Sandpaper is a neat trick! I had not thought of that. I think I will try it. I had wondered how you deal with small seeds.

    Bookmark     July 30, 2008 at 10:12AM
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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

I have always kept some rough 'wet/dry' emery paper from the auto refinishing section of the parts store for scratching seed.

    Bookmark     July 30, 2008 at 12:02PM
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