6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

They will fruite BUT^ the real question is the quality of the fruit & that question can only be answered when it starts to bear fruit. Poor taisting plants/low production should be destroyed

While readily available premixed in most garden centers, most commercial sowing media here is approximately equal parts peat (you could substitute coir) and vermiculite, sometimes with some perlite added. If starting plants that require alkaline soil, a bit of lime may be added.

You'll want to moisten it before preparing your pots - the correct amount of moisture and it will feel about as damp as a well wrung out sponge, not soggy.

Seedlings will normally be moved out of this mix and into their own pots when they have developed their second set of true leaves, but garden soil still is not recommended for potted plants, too heavy in almost every case. You can buy a ready made mix if you don't want to purchase ingredients to make your own and improve it by adding more vermiculite, peat, perlite, or horticultural grit (similar to parakeet gravel).

Here's a site that may help you with that.

Lynda

Here is a link that might be useful: seedling photos

Malpighia glabra?

It has been more than a few years since I grew any from seeds. I mail ordered 100 seeds and most sprouted within two weeks.

The dream of the quick tropical jungle only to be defeated by the cold shoulder of mother nature.

Hot, dry conditions are best for preventing powdery mildew.

The plants are grown similarly to cucumbers. Caution is in order because Kiwanos have a "weedy" nature; they are vigorous climbers and robust plants which can quickly take over. The fruit forms in clusters with the fruit closest to the plant center maturing first. They have to be cut from the vine, gloves should be worn, and care taken not to puncture a neighboring fruit with the spines.

USDA storage recommendations are 50° to 60°F at 90 percent relative humidity, with an approximate storage life of 6 months. Do not stack the fruit as the spines can puncture other fruit. (the spines on the fruit you purchased may have been sanded to dull them for shipment)

this is interesting, thanks for posting, I have some seed from yesterday which we loved the flavor! Crazy looking fruit, interesting, am gona try to plant mine now too!

Looking at your zone, the couple of things I see that could be problematic would be your temp depending on what you are sowing (not everything will germinate when it's warmer than necessary, and there are seeds that need quite cool temps) and, you may have trouble keeping your seed pots moist outdoors.

But I sow outdoors in pots often, especially those perennials that do best sown immediately after harvesting seed, or I'll late summer sow (in pots) those things that need a warm period, followed by a chill, then warm again.

You can skip the sterilizing of your soil, nothing outdoors is sterile and damp off shouldn't be an issue when not germinating in an enclosed environment. I hope you meant to use a commercial soil or mix though, and not garden soil - too heavy in almost every case.

Socalgirl, my suggestion (and preference) in LA is to germinate outdoors using flats with fast draining sterile soil or indoors using the coffee filter/plastic baggie method (see link). I germinate outside 12 months a year using no specialized equipment. We are so different than most of the US that suggestions from these forums can be confusing.

With the baggie method, I transplant into 6-packs of fast draining soil as soon as the root develops and the cotelydon breaks free of the seed coat. With the flats, I either transplant into 4" containers or directly into the ground when the seedling reaches the 4 true leaves stage.

Check the FAQs section at the top of the "Growing From Seed" forum page, there is also a discussion on the hunk-o-seedlings method, which people sometime resort to wjen we have to many seeds.

I would never bother with the complicated systems people in other region use out of necessity, but a good heat mat can make a difference in cool months. Just about every seed has an ideal temperature at which it wants to germinate.

Here is a link that might be useful: baggie method

Freshly harvested baptisia seed doesn't need the hot water bath or a cold treatment either one - that recommendation is for stored (commercial packet etc) seed. You might soak overnight, then sow and watch for germination in from 1 to as many as 4 weeks.

I am pretty new to seed starting, but I had a miserable failure with the pellets. I think Jiffy Mix is preferred by a lot of people and I will try it next. I'm also going to try winter sowing.

Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Sowing

Seed producers and sellers publish germination rates based on test plots. When I have poor germination I usually find I have not met dormancy breaking requirements of that particular seed. I TRY and restrain myself and plant only a few of a new (to me) seed until I get the hang of it. Al

That's hard to answer without knowing which seeds.

Many may not germinate at higher temperatures, or will need a period of moist chill before bringing back to warm to break dormancy.

Seeds that haven't been stored and are sown immediately after harvesting can be exceptions, but for commercial or stored seed, here is one database that gives you an idea of what each plant may need -

Here is a link that might be useful: Clothiers, Perennial germination database

Way to go they will flower next year after the plant goes through a cold period. Mine have germinated around the parent plant.

Well, I've never germinated hollyhock seed before. My neighbor moved and I saw her hollyhock in her front yard! I took off a green pod too. I didn't even dry it (even know enough to do that) I planted three seeds in a plastic cup and all three have come up. The first one came up in about three days, the other tow took over two weeks. I was incredibly lucky I guess. :)