6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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tomakers(SE MA Zone 5/6 or ?)

I found the cheapest ones at Ocean State Job Lot. I think one of your local outlet stores is the best place, at the end of the season. I really haven't seen them cheap any where else.

    Bookmark     July 24, 2008 at 10:54PM
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tomakers(SE MA Zone 5/6 or ?)

I also use newspaper pots when I pot up. I have used them for a couple of years now and they can't be beat.
JMO,
Tom

    Bookmark     August 2, 2008 at 10:36PM
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ankraras(8/9AZ)

Malpighia glabra?

It has been more than a few years since I grew any from seeds. I mail ordered 100 seeds and most sprouted within two weeks.

The dream of the quick tropical jungle only to be defeated by the cold shoulder of mother nature.

    Bookmark     August 2, 2008 at 3:30PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Hot, dry conditions are best for preventing powdery mildew.

The plants are grown similarly to cucumbers. Caution is in order because Kiwanos have a "weedy" nature; they are vigorous climbers and robust plants which can quickly take over. The fruit forms in clusters with the fruit closest to the plant center maturing first. They have to be cut from the vine, gloves should be worn, and care taken not to puncture a neighboring fruit with the spines.

USDA storage recommendations are 50° to 60°F at 90 percent relative humidity, with an approximate storage life of 6 months. Do not stack the fruit as the spines can puncture other fruit. (the spines on the fruit you purchased may have been sanded to dull them for shipment)

    Bookmark     July 3, 2006 at 11:41AM
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tumblingtomatoes

this is interesting, thanks for posting, I have some seed from yesterday which we loved the flavor! Crazy looking fruit, interesting, am gona try to plant mine now too!

    Bookmark     August 2, 2008 at 10:23AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Looking at your zone, the couple of things I see that could be problematic would be your temp depending on what you are sowing (not everything will germinate when it's warmer than necessary, and there are seeds that need quite cool temps) and, you may have trouble keeping your seed pots moist outdoors.

But I sow outdoors in pots often, especially those perennials that do best sown immediately after harvesting seed, or I'll late summer sow (in pots) those things that need a warm period, followed by a chill, then warm again.

You can skip the sterilizing of your soil, nothing outdoors is sterile and damp off shouldn't be an issue when not germinating in an enclosed environment. I hope you meant to use a commercial soil or mix though, and not garden soil - too heavy in almost every case.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2008 at 12:36AM
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dicot

Socalgirl, my suggestion (and preference) in LA is to germinate outdoors using flats with fast draining sterile soil or indoors using the coffee filter/plastic baggie method (see link). I germinate outside 12 months a year using no specialized equipment. We are so different than most of the US that suggestions from these forums can be confusing.

With the baggie method, I transplant into 6-packs of fast draining soil as soon as the root develops and the cotelydon breaks free of the seed coat. With the flats, I either transplant into 4" containers or directly into the ground when the seedling reaches the 4 true leaves stage.

Check the FAQs section at the top of the "Growing From Seed" forum page, there is also a discussion on the hunk-o-seedlings method, which people sometime resort to wjen we have to many seeds.

I would never bother with the complicated systems people in other region use out of necessity, but a good heat mat can make a difference in cool months. Just about every seed has an ideal temperature at which it wants to germinate.

Here is a link that might be useful: baggie method

    Bookmark     July 31, 2008 at 8:16PM
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gnomey(7b SC zip296)

Sandpaper is a neat trick! I had not thought of that. I think I will try it. I had wondered how you deal with small seeds.

    Bookmark     July 30, 2008 at 10:12AM
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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

I have always kept some rough 'wet/dry' emery paper from the auto refinishing section of the parts store for scratching seed.

    Bookmark     July 30, 2008 at 12:02PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Freshly harvested baptisia seed doesn't need the hot water bath or a cold treatment either one - that recommendation is for stored (commercial packet etc) seed. You might soak overnight, then sow and watch for germination in from 1 to as many as 4 weeks.

    Bookmark     July 30, 2008 at 10:49AM
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gnomey(7b SC zip296)

I am pretty new to seed starting, but I had a miserable failure with the pellets. I think Jiffy Mix is preferred by a lot of people and I will try it next. I'm also going to try winter sowing.

Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Sowing

    Bookmark     July 29, 2008 at 8:20PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Seed producers and sellers publish germination rates based on test plots. When I have poor germination I usually find I have not met dormancy breaking requirements of that particular seed. I TRY and restrain myself and plant only a few of a new (to me) seed until I get the hang of it. Al

    Bookmark     July 30, 2008 at 10:01AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

That's hard to answer without knowing which seeds.

Many may not germinate at higher temperatures, or will need a period of moist chill before bringing back to warm to break dormancy.

Seeds that haven't been stored and are sown immediately after harvesting can be exceptions, but for commercial or stored seed, here is one database that gives you an idea of what each plant may need -

Here is a link that might be useful: Clothiers, Perennial germination database

    Bookmark     July 29, 2008 at 10:02AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Way to go they will flower next year after the plant goes through a cold period. Mine have germinated around the parent plant.

    Bookmark     July 26, 2008 at 5:43PM
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sudzy(5b IL)

Well, I've never germinated hollyhock seed before. My neighbor moved and I saw her hollyhock in her front yard! I took off a green pod too. I didn't even dry it (even know enough to do that) I planted three seeds in a plastic cup and all three have come up. The first one came up in about three days, the other tow took over two weeks. I was incredibly lucky I guess. :)

    Bookmark     July 28, 2008 at 12:23AM
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richter

Thanks! I'll try that.

    Bookmark     July 27, 2008 at 8:41AM
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drew_2008

I plan to put mine outside, so I don't know much about keeping it as houseplant, but I have heard it is unlikely to flower without the proper conditions. I live in SoCal, and I have heard really large mature trees, at least 8-10yrs old, have flowered here (San Diego & Fullerton), but many have no success with getting it to flower. I would guess that you won't be able to get it to flower indoors.

Drew

    Bookmark     July 27, 2008 at 11:14AM
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lemecdutex(z15 CA Petaluma)

I love Chiltern's seeds in the UK. I've ordered seed from them on a Tuesday evening, and had them arrive that Friday (that's faster than US-based shippers!). They give you good quantities of seeds, and I've had great success with germination, including with particularly tricky seeds, like the blue poppies (meconopsis).

--Ron

    Bookmark     July 26, 2008 at 2:34AM
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evonnestoryteller(5-6)

I watch for seed sales at T&M all the time! This year they had the 1/2 price sale and then the 99 cent sale! I stocked up on things I would not normally purchase.

http://www.tmseeds.com/

    Bookmark     July 26, 2008 at 8:29PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

A minimum of 4 week cold period (40F) is needed..... then lightly cover &..... darkness .....needed for germination. Soil temperature 65-70F taking 10-14 days .... taking 15 weeks to be large enough to set out. Figure last frost free date... count back 20 weeks & see if enough time to plant this year.

    Bookmark     July 14, 2008 at 5:20PM
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lemecdutex(z15 CA Petaluma)

In your zone you might do well doing what I used to do with them, I just sprinkled them lightly in my garden during the month of October. I always got plenty that reached blooming size. My old garden in Fresno had them return each year by the 10s of thousands. Quite spectacular!

--Ron

    Bookmark     July 26, 2008 at 2:43AM
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brockthegreek

Hi mblabe,
Your big pots should work fine. The potting soil in them will be fine. You can put more zinnia plants together in a pot than sunflower plants. The zinnias will grow to 1-3 feet tall, the sunflowers along the lines of 4-7 feet. Zinnias aren't fond of their roots being disturbed, so be gentle when you transplant them. Leave an inch or two between the plants. Put your pots in a sunny location. As you can see from my picture, I used 15 inch planters that I placed a full packet of seeds in each. It may look a little crowded but they are growing well.
BTG

    Bookmark     July 24, 2008 at 6:07AM
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caroline_2008(Z 6)

From Gardener

Hi there, just wanted to say that is real cool, that
your daughter planted seeds and watched them grow. This pic of my zinnias was one package, I plant them in
several places in my large flower beds. They grow
quickly and are pretty. Just keep them watered and I
too think the large pot will be fine for yours.
Good luck .

    Bookmark     July 25, 2008 at 1:29PM
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thestrangeangel

If I grew it in a pot it would be a half barrel... don't know the capacity but its pretty large.
you still think it would be a bad plan?
The weather there isn't that different from here :P so it shouldn't be to hard to grow you think?

    Bookmark     July 19, 2008 at 2:24AM
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erict

Try Cananga fruticosa instead if you're worried about the size. Go dwarf!

    Bookmark     July 25, 2008 at 1:39AM
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brockthegreek

Hi greenmouli,
Here's a link to shade loving plants from Spring Hill Nurseries. It should give you some ideas on choosing something suitable. Hope it helps.
BTG

Here is a link that might be useful: Shade loving plants

    Bookmark     July 24, 2008 at 6:16AM
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