6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Thanks morz8 for the reply. Much appreciated. Can you tell me more about this Cornell soil mix recipe? Do you know what it consists of?
The local garden centers in my area sell all the brand name potting mixes, and there are a ton of different types of mixes, so I just want to make sure I get the best one for growing pine, spruce and fir seedlings.
The first time I ever tried growing conifer seeds I used ordinary garden soil from my back yard and all the seedlings died from damping off, so I obviously want to avoid that.
Thanks
Dave
Dave, the mix is peat, pumice, fine grade perlite, a wetting agent, tweaked with a bit of dolomite lime specifically for my location - months of copious mildly acidic rain.
That garden soil that can grow beautiful plants somehow never works in containers, either for seeds or plants.
Basically all commercial potting/container mixes are soilless and many would serve your purpose. I'd avoid the store's own generic brand or cheapest variety on the shelf, anything made for a specific type of plant like tropical, cactus, and skip all under the Hyponex brand name.
Cherry also almond, nectarine, peach, apricot, plum. Store seed at 40F for 12 weeks then lightly cover soil temp 65-70 for germination taking 120-365 days. Used primarly for grafting stock as fruit will NOT!!! be exactly like the parent and will be slow to flower (The cherry seed will give a cherry tree BUT!!!
Jollyrd, you can try your public library. I found books like Gardening in Michigan, Annuals for Michigan Gardens, Perennials for Michigan Gardens, etc. I am sure you can find similar books for VA.
And I don't think you need to buy them either. Unless you live in a very extreme place like zone 2 or something, most annuals and perennials will work anyway. You only need to read the front few chapters or section that cover specific conditions of you area (like the soil type or when to start your seeds).
Redrumed, I think you are trying to find a simple way that doesn't require transplanting. What you can do is to simply loosen the top of the soil a little bit (as long it is not heavy clay underneath), then sow the seeds, and since the soil is loose, you can easily "rub" it back to cover the seeds thinly, then firm a little.
That would be similar to what happened in nature. As for covering with 1/4" or 1/8" of soil. Don't worry about it. It doesn't have to be that precise. It is just a suggestion. You only need to check if the seeds need deep burying like sweet pea needs to be sowed 2" under the soil becuase it requires darkness to germinate.
I did a lot of seeds about the same time you asked the question, and I am seeing a lot of seedlings now. :-)
I think your perennials should be fine for next year. Cleome I believe is an annual, so you might or might not see it bloom, given you are in zone 5. Perhaps you can sow half of the packet and save the other half for next year.
It may be a little warm right not to start this plant. It could not hurt to try to start a few. I find them to grow like weeks in my garden. The plants are taller than I am.
http://www.complete-herbal.com/details/eveningprimrose.htm
"If planting by seed it requires light to germinate so they should be scattered on the soil surface and tamped lightly. Watering and freezing the seeds may help in germination by cracking the seed coats. It should be kept free from weeds as it doesn't compete well with other plants. The roots grow deep into the ground and care should be taken not to break them in removing. It takes 15-30 days for propogation. Seeds may also be sown in cold frames in autumn for planting out the following year."
My regular ones I don't notice have seeded or not think I might be seeing a few, but all except for one place they seem happy have died off and not come back. I could plant them again; they are pretty in the spring.
The Chinese variety I like, too, and they *seem* to bloom for me the same year some that self-seeded even quite early and longlasting. Some I plant bloom later on in late summer and early fall. Those I can see could get to be a nuisance but so far enjoy them no matter where they seed so far. A couple of those sprouted and bloomed in a place in the street and a crack in the sidewalk, even in a damp spot where some things won't grow or do well. There I intended monarda, and they are going to overgrow their bounds if I don't control them, just two plants.
The Chinese ones I can transplant easily if I want and pinch back, and they will keep right on blooming. I like each kind in its own way and especially pretty spots of true blue.
I don't know when the monardas will bloom, maybe it is too late this year, haven't seen any buds yet, can go through my photos of others' and check dates.
In your area its grown as a annual. lightly cover seed soil temp for germination 68-72F taking 110-14 days to germinate. Sow to flowering 14-18 weeks (A long day plant)