6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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pottingblockguru

Yo digdirt! Dig this--'Dry out very fast'??? Obviously, you're not making the right blocking mix! 'Markedly reduced germination rates'??? Hah! I scoff at that remark. You obviously don't know how to germ seeds in blocks! And difficult is not the word when you're trying something so new; use 'experiment' And finally, they're expensive BECAUSE THEY LAST FOREVER!!! Nothing like buying a round of oil products year after year after year and watching them pile up around your place. Not me.

Here is a link that might be useful: The world's resource for soil block seed starting

    Bookmark     May 27, 2008 at 6:40PM
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dirtbert(z4)

I just started using a soil block maker this year and I'll be honest I was skeptical. But I am SOLD, 100%
Saves space, germination was great and no pots to sterilize.

I will definitely be giving my soil block maker a work out next spring ;)
Probably be shopping for a few different sizes as well.

    Bookmark     June 2, 2008 at 10:09PM
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evonnestoryteller(5-6)

You can take a look here on this database of seedling images.

Here is a link that might be useful: Images of Seedpods, Seeds and Seedlings

    Bookmark     June 2, 2008 at 9:32PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You'll find all the basic seed collecting and saving FAQ's over on the Seed Saving forum (linked on this forum's front page). Just click on the FAQ link there.

If you search that forum using "carnation" you'll get several discussions on them specifically.

Goof luck.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Saving Forum

    Bookmark     June 2, 2008 at 2:27PM
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caroline_2008(Z 6)

Thanks digdirt, I realized that I had posted in the
wrong forum, sorry about that.

    Bookmark     June 2, 2008 at 5:43PM
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dirtbert(z4)

I would save the seed until late this fall.
Then scatter where you want them to grow next spring, or winter sow them this coming winter. (check out the FAQ on the winter sowing forum for more info on that)

I winter sowed some this past winter and they did REALLY well for me. I won't have blooms this year, but I have a lot of healthy seedlings that should do well next spring.

    Bookmark     June 1, 2008 at 4:47PM
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amna(6 (MA))

Hi,

I just germinated some oriental poppy seeds - was my second try because nothing germinated the first time around when I followed all the directions. So with the left over seeds. I decided to just scatter them on a damp paper towel placed inside a plastic takeout food container with a lid. No startification or any thing, out of the packet onto the towel. I kept the container at 70 -80F with light exposure and almost all have germinated :-) Took 2-3 days. Now I'll have to figure out how to get them to grow up - thinking of just cutting up the paper towel into small patches and patting it into my bed with the sunflowers. Maybe you could try something like that with some of your seeds even though I guess yours aren't the orientals?

Amna

    Bookmark     June 1, 2008 at 9:34PM
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ontheteam(5a-6 (S.Eastern, MA))

whoops Der... sorry 'bout that...

I am in MA zone 6b.But kinda a micro 7a...Live in an area that is watershed..lots of weather influence from a very large river and the bottom of a valley terrain.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2008 at 10:26AM
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ontheteam(5a-6 (S.Eastern, MA))

bump....

    Bookmark     June 1, 2008 at 6:51PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

No way to know for sure which variety it is until you see the fruit and even then you may not be able to tell. The most common varieties are Bacon, Gwen, and Hass plus 2 or 3 others I think. But only the supplier that sold to the store would know.

It should bear fruit...eventually...;) assuming your climate is friendly for them. Fairly good size trees and average time from germination to fruit bearing is about 5 years based on what I have read about them.

Good luck! ;) Nice idea.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 31, 2008 at 12:21PM
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catankgirl

Sue, that is really cute for you and your son. :) I have a 6yo daughter and we play with trying to start avacado tress from pits too. I posted in another thread here about it. Also, there are a few threads on the California Gardening forums about avacado trees that might be able to help you, they know a lot more about them than me over there. I posted a pic of my tree there too so you can see about the size, and mine is considered a small one from what I can tell.

Good luck! And don't think too much about your little boy going off to college, wah!

    Bookmark     May 31, 2008 at 5:03PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

No, you don't HAVE to pinch them, but you can if you wish to make them bushier. Just pinch off the growing tip of the central stem until it develops the bush shape you want. Wait till it is about 6" tall before pinching.

Why not try an experiment since you have more than one - pinch off some and leave some unpinched and see which end result you prefer. ;)

Dave

    Bookmark     May 31, 2008 at 12:15PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Did you ever transplant them or just leave them in their germination trays? The process of transplanting is what stimulates root development. It triggers the cellular structure in the roots to change so that the seedling switches to making multiple fibrous roots rather than just a few tap roots. Without transplanting, that change won't take place.

Also seedlings should never be fed anything stronger than a 1/4 strength fertilizer solution - never full strength. It just triggers top growth and the roots are stressed to keep up.

Now that you have transplanted them to the garden it will happen but it means "catch-up" time. Lay off the fertilizer for awhile and allow the roots to develop, ok? ;)

Dave

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 12:26AM
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macheske(6/7 NorthernVA)

smh1,
What kind of plant are you asking about? Tomatoes end up with really nice fibrous root structures. Plants like cucumbers don't end up with much at the time that you plant them in the garden.

    Bookmark     May 31, 2008 at 8:06AM
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dirtbert(z4)

Well I dug mine out this year. I had gotten it as a gift several years ago and tried it and I didn't seem to get it right then. This time it worked great. I'm guessing I didn't have the soil wet enough the first time I tried it.

I had great success using the soil blocks. I made the blocks on a layer of excess quilt batting (that worked ok, but might try to find a substitute for that next year). The quilt batting was my cheap solution to a capilary mat. I could water on the edge (not to disturb the soil blocks) and the batting would disperse the water all along the bottom of the tray to all the blocks. It is essential not to let this mat dry out though, or it was hard to get it all moistened again.

Seeds I started that were relatively small did best. I tried a few cukes in my seed blocks (which are the smaller 1 1/2 inch blocks) and they didn't seem to have enough room to open up.

I had a lot of luck with verbena, millet, wall flower, lavender, and a few others I'm sure I'm forgetting.

I plan to use them for most of my seed starting next year (I start A TON of things from seed every year: veggies, annuals, herbs, perennials).

What I really like about them is the space it saves. I don't have enough very small pots to start the seeds in so this allows me to only pot up what germinates and once they have a set or two of true leaves or I can see the roots starting to poke out the sides.

I am now a believer and may even look for a bigger soil block maker for some of my bigger seeds :)

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 11:26PM
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ontheteam(5a-6 (S.Eastern, MA))

I had just given up on getting an answer! I am looking in to these for next yr too( maybe get some practice with quick annuals )
Thanks for sharing!
Good luck to you

    Bookmark     May 31, 2008 at 5:34AM
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kdla1957

I have had good success with cultivating my own seeds - self-taught. So, I'm a little short on jargon. What are "crowns"?
Also, what impact does mulch or compost have on plants if it's mixed into the soil rather than laid on top?

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 9:36PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

The crown is the plant part where stems meet roots.

Compost spaded into soil can help sandy soil retain moisture, help clay soil drain faster, and adds nutrients to both types. A good thing.

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 11:11PM
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jqpublic(7b/8a Wake County NC)

Thanks so much! I went ahead and threw some of the seed that came from our plants this year right onto the soil. The rest I will save for this winter.

    Bookmark     May 21, 2008 at 11:31PM
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kdla1957_sympatico_ca

I read through this and understand most of it but have a couple of questions.
Do I have to remove the seeds from the pods prior to storing?
Can I freeze instead of 40 degrees? I'm assuming it would simulate winter and not harm the seeds...

Thanks in advance,
David

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 9:03PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It's just 1 part peroxide to 9 parts of water. Use any measure you need to have enough to cover the seeds.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 12:22AM
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gardener_sandy

I'd wait till they're up and sturdy. Plus, in your zone, the soil hasn't had a chance to warm up enough yet. If you put down mulch, it keeps the soil cool and morning glories like warm soil.

    Bookmark     May 29, 2008 at 8:48PM
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beaverbrewer

From my experience with Lychee, they sprout like mad. Just plunk them in dirt and add water and they should come up within a couple of weeks.
However, I need to add a couple of caveats:
- many different fruits get called "lychee" - I can't guarantee that you and I are talking about the same thing.
- my Chinese friends tell me that actual Lychee plants are rather shrubby and not that attractive. From what I've seen on the internet they don't seem too bad, but I don't have first-hand experience, except to say that, for the length of time that I had them in pots, they were fine.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2008 at 9:01PM
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nygardener(z6 New York)

So far, so good. I made about 100 2" blocks using Johnny's 4-block maker and their 512 Mix, with a little organic fertilizer mixed in (that might not be necessary). They're on capillary mats wrapped around two layers of plastic eggcrate inside trays with humidity domes. I've sown cukes, squash, melons, basil, and sunflowers, all of which I plan to plant out in about two months. Trays and accessories are from Indoor Gardening Supplies.

When the blocks come out of the maker, they're very close together. I expelled the blocks onto a plastic surface and then moved them from there into the flat, spacing them at about ½", to discourage the roots from growing into neighboring blocks. I had no problem lifting and moving them by hand.

Some of the blocks have small cracks or have lost corners, and it takes a little practice to fill the mold and push out the blocks without compressing them. But overall they seem pretty uniform. Supposedly soon after germination the roots hold the blocks together and then they're not at all fragile. I'll post again in a few weeks!

    Bookmark     April 7, 2007 at 6:46AM
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pottingblockguru

Folks! If you're not reading pottingblocks.com, you're just asking questions to amateurs. Trust the guru, who's made over one million blocks in 5 years.

Here is a link that might be useful: The world's resource for soil block gardening.

    Bookmark     May 27, 2008 at 6:46PM
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