6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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jqpublic(7b/8a Wake County NC)

Thanks so much! I went ahead and threw some of the seed that came from our plants this year right onto the soil. The rest I will save for this winter.

    Bookmark     May 21, 2008 at 11:31PM
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kdla1957_sympatico_ca

I read through this and understand most of it but have a couple of questions.
Do I have to remove the seeds from the pods prior to storing?
Can I freeze instead of 40 degrees? I'm assuming it would simulate winter and not harm the seeds...

Thanks in advance,
David

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 9:03PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

It's just 1 part peroxide to 9 parts of water. Use any measure you need to have enough to cover the seeds.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 30, 2008 at 12:22AM
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gardener_sandy

I'd wait till they're up and sturdy. Plus, in your zone, the soil hasn't had a chance to warm up enough yet. If you put down mulch, it keeps the soil cool and morning glories like warm soil.

    Bookmark     May 29, 2008 at 8:48PM
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beaverbrewer

From my experience with Lychee, they sprout like mad. Just plunk them in dirt and add water and they should come up within a couple of weeks.
However, I need to add a couple of caveats:
- many different fruits get called "lychee" - I can't guarantee that you and I are talking about the same thing.
- my Chinese friends tell me that actual Lychee plants are rather shrubby and not that attractive. From what I've seen on the internet they don't seem too bad, but I don't have first-hand experience, except to say that, for the length of time that I had them in pots, they were fine.

    Bookmark     May 28, 2008 at 9:01PM
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nygardener(z6 New York)

So far, so good. I made about 100 2" blocks using Johnny's 4-block maker and their 512 Mix, with a little organic fertilizer mixed in (that might not be necessary). They're on capillary mats wrapped around two layers of plastic eggcrate inside trays with humidity domes. I've sown cukes, squash, melons, basil, and sunflowers, all of which I plan to plant out in about two months. Trays and accessories are from Indoor Gardening Supplies.

When the blocks come out of the maker, they're very close together. I expelled the blocks onto a plastic surface and then moved them from there into the flat, spacing them at about ½", to discourage the roots from growing into neighboring blocks. I had no problem lifting and moving them by hand.

Some of the blocks have small cracks or have lost corners, and it takes a little practice to fill the mold and push out the blocks without compressing them. But overall they seem pretty uniform. Supposedly soon after germination the roots hold the blocks together and then they're not at all fragile. I'll post again in a few weeks!

    Bookmark     April 7, 2007 at 6:46AM
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pottingblockguru

Folks! If you're not reading pottingblocks.com, you're just asking questions to amateurs. Trust the guru, who's made over one million blocks in 5 years.

Here is a link that might be useful: The world's resource for soil block gardening.

    Bookmark     May 27, 2008 at 6:46PM
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zengeos(5 Maine)

OK. This is my first year starting from seed. I've wintersown around 100 varieties of seed. No idea how that will work out as I have no germination yet.

I've also started a dozen or so varieties of peppers and a dozen or so varieties of tomatoes from seed, along with a tray of broccoli, cauli and brussels sprouts and a few other herbs and a couple trays of flowers.

I've found that the coir pellets from Burpee work very well. Like the soil blocks, they help air prune the roots and don't let the coir/soil get too moist. I also used the coir pellets that expand into the little cell packs. Again, they have been quite successful. Nothing lost to damping off yet, knowck on wood. I think part of my luck has been the use of coir instead of peat as my seed starting medium. Apparently peat sometimes carries the bacteria/virus that causes damping off, while there is apparently no indication of coir doing so, though I could be wrong.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that at least 2/3 of my wintersown varieties will grow and survive/thrive for me.

Mark-

    Bookmark     March 24, 2008 at 10:31AM
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pottingblockguru_yahoo_com

I'm sorry zengeos, there is nothing "like the soil blocks"!
Pellets are compressed at the factory and have lost most of there water absorbing qualities and microbiotic life. Pure junk!

Here is a link that might be useful: The World's authority on starting seeds in soil blocks.

    Bookmark     May 27, 2008 at 6:30PM
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evonnestoryteller(5-6)

I have never seen or used a planting stick, but perhaps one would help.

http://www.ihdi.uky.edu/kygrow/starting%20seeds.htm

"For those who have difficulty bending or getting up and down, planting sticks could be the answer. A planting stick is a plastic pipe cut waist or chest high with a funnel attached. Sharpen a dowel rod and tape it securely to the outside of the pipe allowing it to protrude 3 inches beyond the bottom of the pipe. Use the dowel to make a dibble of the proper depth for the seeds you are planting and drop the seed down the tube into the hole. Another variation for those who use a cane is to attach the tube to the cane instead of a dowel."

Some seeds will germinate nicely sprinkled on the surface of the soil. That is because they require light to germinate. I put a nice sheet of fluffy soil down, sprinkle the seeds and water them in.

Other seeds require darkness to germinate. A nice base of soil, seeds and then a covering is a great idea. For seeds that need to be put a little deeper into the earth, perhaps a planting stick can be investigated.

I looked around online for the Able Gardener catalog, and found a good one in the UK. They have all sorts of specialty tools. I don't see the planting stick though. The US catalog did not seem to have all of the garden. tools. They do sound like they are easy enough to make.

    Bookmark     May 23, 2008 at 10:31AM
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joelke(5)

The planting stick sounds like the ideal answer for you. If you can't get one made right away, you might take a hoe and just make a thin row to plant in and drop your seed there and use the hoe to cover them lightly. I am not in a wheelchair but have difficulty bending over. This helps me.

    Bookmark     May 27, 2008 at 2:54PM
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giannigrow

The root length is actually 2 1/2 inches, but very thin like a thread.

    Bookmark     May 26, 2008 at 4:44PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

You don't say which campanula - there are some examples of pods and seeds for some of the campanulas here:

Here is a link that might be useful: Campanula - Seed Site

    Bookmark     May 26, 2008 at 11:21AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

plant when its convient for YOU!!!

    Bookmark     May 25, 2008 at 9:53PM
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kayhh

Thank you Paul. I really enjoyed that.

Keep writing - and keep sharing!

Kay.

    Bookmark     May 25, 2008 at 8:40PM
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sinai(7b/Alabama)

Kay, thank you for writing....I'm happy you enjoyed the story, hope you find others on there that you might like too....as long as folks like yourself enjoy the stories, I'll keep writing them.....Have a nice weekend

Paul from Alabama

    Bookmark     May 25, 2008 at 9:13PM
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thistle(ontario 5b)

I must admit I harden off way earlier than normal ,even if I lose some it's worth it.I start too many and I can't wait to get them out of the house. So far this year everything has gone well,even the Brugmansias are thriving.I would not recommend this to everyone,It does get extremely stressfull wondering if I am going to lose the lot from a late frosst,so far so good!

    Bookmark     May 24, 2008 at 7:54PM
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kayhh

I have a covered, screened in porch with a half-wall all around. I put my plants out there all day. I just make sure they are in full shade all day long for the 1st week. Then I move them to a spot where they will get a couple of hours of full light, then a few more. etc. This time of year I am out of room under the lights.

Kay.

    Bookmark     May 25, 2008 at 9:06PM
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gardener_sandy

Johnny's Selected Seeds online catalog usually has the time to bloom.

Here is a link that might be useful: Johnny's catalog

    Bookmark     May 25, 2008 at 2:15AM
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ginjj

Thank you!
Ginny

    Bookmark     May 25, 2008 at 4:31PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Pretreat by storing in refrigator for 4-6 weeks. then lightly cover seed. soil temp for germination 50-60F & takes 30-180 days to germinate.

    Bookmark     May 25, 2008 at 9:13AM
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