6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Thank you Anna and rhizo.

I may have panicked too early!

The white growth may be root hair. But I have also seen what looks like white cobwebs linking the seedling to the soil. Someone mentionned that "cobweb" mold is sometimes present in peat pots.

Just in case, I started a whole new batch of seeding. But first I sterilized the peat pot by microwaving them for 3 minutes (as suggested on an internet site).I also bathed 4 peat pots in a very mild bleach solution, rinsed them well, stuck toothpicks in them to identify the bleached ones, and reseeded.

We will see! Very much part of the fun of gardening. For me, each phase, from seed selection to maturing plants are
separate sources of pleasure and wonderment!

Thanks for your input!

André

I'm betting on the root hairs.

Thanks so much Dave! So do you think I should situate the greenhouse in a shady area at first? If so, when would it be appropriate to move it into a sunnier area to get the seedlings accustomed to full sun (where they need to be)?
Can the tender seedlings spend the whole day in the greenhouse thing from day one?

I picked up some laundry baskets flat kind and put them over the seedlings all day for a week. Then took the basket off just using it during 11 - 2 for a week. Seems to work well. Wednesday if all goes well and the weather cooperates I should be able to plant.

Before I tried this I put some seedlings in the sun for a couple of hours a day without thinking and started to get sunburnt.

I haven't had problems with paper towels, I guess mainly because the seeds are sitting directly on top of the paper towel that is placed at the bottom of the sandwich plastic container that I can simply peek in to see if anything germinated or not then close the lid. Seems easier than ziplock bag. Seeds just stay in place in the container...

I will have to look at coffee filters because they would keep seeds from sticking to the side of the container where it's a bit wetter...

I too prefer the coffee filters and a spray bottle of water with a weak peroxide solution.

I started my zinnias in larger 16 oz. clear plastic cups covered by plastic wrap held on with rubber band. Figured I wouldn't have to move them up that way. Don't know if that's a seed germinating "no-no" but with all the pounding rain we're having with resultant gloppy clay soil mess that can't be dug I'm glad they're in larger containers with their little roots growing fine. I know roots are growing because I dropped a couple of cups when moving in and out of rain...LOL. Had to gently put them back in mix and they seem to have survived. Besides, I don't know exactly where different height zinnias are going as to different beds and containers. Had them outside to get some sun for as long as it lasted.

Thanks for the responses. I think in my heart I knew they would have to be moved up. Ugh! It is just that I finished transplanting over 700+ tomato seedlings and am tired of dealing with them. I will take your suggestion, Dave, and round up the big pots, trays, butter containers, etc. that I have.I have about 300+ seedlings to do - nuts!!! I suppose next eyar I could direct seed, but I really wanted a little jump start. :)

Hi Dave,

Thank you for your response. It was very helpful and what you wrote makes a lot of sense. Do you know what prevents plants from forming extensive roots in the germination cell? From what I have seen so far, I don't think limited space is the issue. Also, since in nature seeds sprout pretty much where they fall and no one is there to poke them deeper in the ground, how come those plants develop fine? Life in the outside world is probably a lot harsher I would think. I'm just really curious and haven't found a satisfying answer yet. Would like to hear your thoughts if you have some time.

Thanks,
Amna

Do you know what prevents plants from forming extensive roots in the germination cell?

It depends on how technical you want to get. ;) A detailed scientific article is linked below but please note that it is still in development - accurate but work still needed. Also, this article is one of the many sources already linked in the discussions I linked for you above.

Basically it boils down to (1) the type of cells found in the different types of roots. Initial roots contain only the cellular structure imposed on them by the seed embryo DNA. And (2) when, in the growing process, the fibrous root cell development is triggered - true leaf emergence. Stage transplanting magnifies that triggering by providing a new growing environment and a deeper environment that forces additional fibrous roots to develop along the now buried stem.

Plants left to go along in their germination cell will, eventually, develop the needed fibrous roots, but not as quickly nor to the same degree. The article linked above shows you pics of the root development on transplants vs. non-transplants.

Also, since in nature seeds sprout pretty much where they fall and no one is there to poke them deeper in the ground, how come those plants develop fine?

Apples and oranges to a degree as the goals are so different. ;)

First, while some seeds in the wild may indeed sprout where they fall, the parent plant "planted" (scattered) thousands of seeds. Of those thousands how many germinated? Studies using both wildflowers and trees show less than 10%.

Second, of those that did sprout, their survival rate is quite low - less than 20% - not something we want when germinating for the garden. Only those very few that chance allows to fall in just the right place with just the right soil, just a lucky wind that covers it or a wild creature poops on it, the right nutrients, sun exposure, and moisture will ever grow to compete with its parent.

Hope this helps.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: How Plants Devlop Roots

I sow seeds indoors until Patriots mini-camp start!

Amna, I finally had time to repot the Cosmos just as you said. Never having worked with teeny, tiny seedlings before I must say it took me a VERY long time to tease apart those babies and then match them up, get soil level right in new container so good roots weren't squished... all in all a process I wouldn't want to duplicate in future years! I didn't have them in single compartment pots or flats so they were all just mushed together in a deep baking tin with clear top.

I don't know how winter sowing people do it in the jugs and a variety of other containers. Guess if I had 100-300 jugs there might be enough to do the "hunk of seedlings" planting with plenty to go around but I don't even remotely have that many containers.

I sowed Zinnias and Tithonia in individual tall cups and/or bottles. They're doing very nicely and I didn't want to take a chance on tearing roots trying to separate when planting out. I know I can direct sow those but wanted to get head start.

Now my Cosmos babies are in their own separate little containers thanks to "auntie amna" having a solution. :)

Hello,
I found the following source for peat pots of all size up to 13". That's pretty large. They also have every size smaller than that and you can buy in bulk to save money. The website hyper-link is the following:

http://www.novoselenterprises.com/products/jiffy.asp

I hope this helps!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Extra Large Peat Pots

Novosel also carries deep ( 3.5") seedling flats (18, 32 & 36). Great for tomatoes and peppers. That extra depth really helps out without taking up more space under lights.

If you winter sow (not the same as direct sowing, by the way) them now like ornata mentions, they will naturally break dormancy and germinate sometime in the spring.

If you are wanting to collect the seed, does the rose hip have to be fully dried before removing it from the rose bush? Is the seed fully grown if the rose hip is still green?