6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

My experience near Phoenix several decades ago was that if you could get them just as they were ripening they would germinate almost immediately, no tricks needed. I only did germination experiments. I know nothing about the soil part of your question.

    Bookmark     May 18, 2008 at 11:27AM
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poisondartfrog

Could you have covered the seed by mistake? When I'm sowing a lot of different types I have been guilty of automatically covering seeds that require light to germinate, like Nicotiana. Sometimes I realize my mistake immediately, sometimes it takes poor germination to jog my memory.

    Bookmark     May 17, 2008 at 9:13PM
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evonnestoryteller(5-6)

I did not cover it, unless by watering it I did. All of my other types of nicotiana seeds seem to be coming up. (I looked at all of them today.) I planted the last few seeds I have of these today on an open flat, but there were not many left.

    Bookmark     May 17, 2008 at 10:12PM
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monkey665(6a)

Hi

I'm not an expert, I just started but I would say move them. I started some inside and outside. The ones I started inside went from the top of my fridge to lights in my laundry room to my porch to outside. They aren't in the ground. I would say definately use the easy hardening out method when planting outside with laundry baskets. Mine started to get burnt. The light threw the window is not as strong as light outside. They will be fine. The only thing that is still on my porch is my tomatoes and cucumbers.

Linda

    Bookmark     May 17, 2008 at 6:44AM
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evonnestoryteller(5-6)

No, but my wild guess would be slugs?

Maybe some of these comments on a morning glory raid will help.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pests/msg061957091210.html
Pest forum.

    Bookmark     May 16, 2008 at 9:50PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yep - just did a whole bunch of them today. ;) You can also prune them back a bit if you wish and they will branch out.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 16, 2008 at 9:19PM
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amna(6 (MA))

Hi Dave,

Thank you for your response. It was very helpful and what you wrote makes a lot of sense. Do you know what prevents plants from forming extensive roots in the germination cell? From what I have seen so far, I don't think limited space is the issue. Also, since in nature seeds sprout pretty much where they fall and no one is there to poke them deeper in the ground, how come those plants develop fine? Life in the outside world is probably a lot harsher I would think. I'm just really curious and haven't found a satisfying answer yet. Would like to hear your thoughts if you have some time.

Thanks,
Amna

    Bookmark     May 15, 2008 at 8:01PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Do you know what prevents plants from forming extensive roots in the germination cell?

It depends on how technical you want to get. ;) A detailed scientific article is linked below but please note that it is still in development - accurate but work still needed. Also, this article is one of the many sources already linked in the discussions I linked for you above.

Basically it boils down to (1) the type of cells found in the different types of roots. Initial roots contain only the cellular structure imposed on them by the seed embryo DNA. And (2) when, in the growing process, the fibrous root cell development is triggered - true leaf emergence. Stage transplanting magnifies that triggering by providing a new growing environment and a deeper environment that forces additional fibrous roots to develop along the now buried stem.

Plants left to go along in their germination cell will, eventually, develop the needed fibrous roots, but not as quickly nor to the same degree. The article linked above shows you pics of the root development on transplants vs. non-transplants.

Also, since in nature seeds sprout pretty much where they fall and no one is there to poke them deeper in the ground, how come those plants develop fine?

Apples and oranges to a degree as the goals are so different. ;)

First, while some seeds in the wild may indeed sprout where they fall, the parent plant "planted" (scattered) thousands of seeds. Of those thousands how many germinated? Studies using both wildflowers and trees show less than 10%.

Second, of those that did sprout, their survival rate is quite low - less than 20% - not something we want when germinating for the garden. Only those very few that chance allows to fall in just the right place with just the right soil, just a lucky wind that covers it or a wild creature poops on it, the right nutrients, sun exposure, and moisture will ever grow to compete with its parent.

Hope this helps.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: How Plants Devlop Roots

    Bookmark     May 16, 2008 at 1:21PM
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deewah(5 + 6)

I sow seeds indoors until Patriots mini-camp start!

    Bookmark     May 12, 2008 at 10:42AM
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newbie_in_nj(6b E/Central NJ)

Amna, I finally had time to repot the Cosmos just as you said. Never having worked with teeny, tiny seedlings before I must say it took me a VERY long time to tease apart those babies and then match them up, get soil level right in new container so good roots weren't squished... all in all a process I wouldn't want to duplicate in future years! I didn't have them in single compartment pots or flats so they were all just mushed together in a deep baking tin with clear top.

I don't know how winter sowing people do it in the jugs and a variety of other containers. Guess if I had 100-300 jugs there might be enough to do the "hunk of seedlings" planting with plenty to go around but I don't even remotely have that many containers.

I sowed Zinnias and Tithonia in individual tall cups and/or bottles. They're doing very nicely and I didn't want to take a chance on tearing roots trying to separate when planting out. I know I can direct sow those but wanted to get head start.

Now my Cosmos babies are in their own separate little containers thanks to "auntie amna" having a solution. :)

    Bookmark     May 16, 2008 at 3:42AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Very likely from cold. The next leaves to form should be of normal color.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2008 at 10:33AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree - likely they were transplanted into soil that was still far too cool. Always a good thing to check your soil temps first as they are so much more important than air temps. ;) Once the soil temps warm up they will likely bounce back with new growth. The damaged leaves will probably dry and fall off as they can no longer photosynth.

Dave

    Bookmark     May 15, 2008 at 2:33PM
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bilberrygrower

Hello,
I found the following source for peat pots of all size up to 13". That's pretty large. They also have every size smaller than that and you can buy in bulk to save money. The website hyper-link is the following:

http://www.novoselenterprises.com/products/jiffy.asp

I hope this helps!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Extra Large Peat Pots

    Bookmark     May 14, 2008 at 8:04PM
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davidinct

Novosel also carries deep ( 3.5") seedling flats (18, 32 & 36). Great for tomatoes and peppers. That extra depth really helps out without taking up more space under lights.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2008 at 1:56AM
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webkat5(Z6a MO)

If you winter sow (not the same as direct sowing, by the way) them now like ornata mentions, they will naturally break dormancy and germinate sometime in the spring.

    Bookmark     August 31, 2006 at 1:02PM
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quiltingfox

If you are wanting to collect the seed, does the rose hip have to be fully dried before removing it from the rose bush? Is the seed fully grown if the rose hip is still green?

    Bookmark     May 14, 2008 at 10:10PM
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dimples31312(z8Guyton,GA)

Sorry I am in the wrong forum
Dimples

    Bookmark     May 14, 2008 at 11:44AM
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origami_master(5b)

Dimples, looks like a maypop to me (passiflora) mine has the same leaves as yours

    Bookmark     May 14, 2008 at 4:12PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

fopr germination cover the seed as darkness required for germination. soil temp 65-75F & takes 10-15 days to germinate. growing on ttemperature 50F plus time to flowering 15-17 weeks SO based on this suggest start seed outside now or by 15th of July

    Bookmark     May 13, 2008 at 2:37PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I think if the seeds are still contained in the fruit and not cleaned or allowed to dry out, they would still be quite fresh.

Of course if you have enough seed and curiosity, you could do them both ways and let us know what your results are :)

    Bookmark     November 19, 2006 at 1:44PM
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burlgirl

What if the seeds mold while in the potting soil? Does that mean no plants will grow?

    Bookmark     May 12, 2008 at 5:08PM
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cindjo2(6)

I would leave the cotyledons esposed. I would not cover them. yes leave them ground level or slightly above.

    Bookmark     May 12, 2008 at 2:56PM
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kanuk(Zone 5 Qc Canada)

Excellent! Thanks so much for your help cindjo2! I truly appreciate you taking the time to help.
Now maybe I'll see sunflowers in bloom in my garden this year.
Happy gardening!!

    Bookmark     May 12, 2008 at 3:21PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

1)keep in same containers since its only 3 weeks to transplant. (2)Could beco0me to leggy but will be controled by the quality of light & duration of light ... give them the best light possible. could set outside on warm days & bring in in the evening, (3) no harm (4) good lots of luck....& enjoy the fruits of your labor

    Bookmark     May 11, 2008 at 10:05AM
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pianist(7)

Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.

    Bookmark     May 12, 2008 at 6:42AM
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