6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
georgez5il(z5 IL)

Yes can start in pots now, No roots will normally not be deformed

    Bookmark     May 3, 2008 at 8:25AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
anthony_toronto

Thanks George, I will give it a try.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2008 at 9:17AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dicot

In my experience, overwatering looks very similar to chlorosis and is very much more likely if you are watering daily. That's what has caused the mold growth. Are you really fertilizing every single day in potting soil with organic matter? I would only do a weak Miracle Grow solution once at about the two true leaf stage.

    Bookmark     April 29, 2008 at 4:23PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
amna(6 (MA))

I find that the green algae grows mostly in cells where the seeds have not yet germinated (and maybe never will)I've been carefully dabbing the green areas with a clean paper towel and the algae pretty much stick to the towel and brown soil is once again visible. I had cells that looked a lot more heavily covered than yours and they are now doing fine.

Hope this helps,
Amna

    Bookmark     May 3, 2008 at 8:52AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
georgez5il(z5 IL)

Things to check , good light, water damp not wet, pH 5.8-6.2 temperature 65 F day.
Time from sow to transplant 4-6 weeks time to set outside another 6 weeks. a fungicidal drench helpful at transplant time.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2008 at 8:41AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
prairiemoon2 z6 MA

The above photo is too small...so here is a link to the WS forum where I posted originally with a larger photo. I can't get tinypic to give me the larger photo for some reason

Here is a link that might be useful: larger photo

    Bookmark     May 3, 2008 at 4:39AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bogturtle(SE NJ 7a)

I have always saved seed from pods that filled out and dried on the vine. I saved them in a frost free area, assuming they would only freeze and would rot in the ground,during the Winter. I wait until the weather is warm and settled. You can actually start them sooner in seperate cups or pots, indoors, in very bright light. They can be planted around the outside of a tomato cage,but they easily get 6-8 feet tall and would benefit from a taller support. Just make it sturdy enough that a coming Summer thunder storm won't blow the whole thing over.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2008 at 12:00AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

You might still be OK, assuming you weren't planning a certified organic garden. I say MIGHT, because to answer your question with certainty, we would need to know what product he used, what the active herbicide in it was.

Weed and Feed products are generally post emergent (they don't prevent germination of weed seeds, they kill actively growing weeds), are often but not always 'non' or 'low' residual - that's why they are applied directly to weeds already present (contact).

"Although nonresidual, some herbicides may remain active in the soil for a few weeks ("carryover"). This time period will vary with the herbicide. The information should be found on the label."

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 6:13PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jesterwitch(MN/4)

Thanks for your responses! It was Scott's Turf Builder & +2 Weed Killer. I think I'm going to just try it- I called Scott's and they said the weed killer doesn't have a pre-emergent in it, so the seeds shouldn't be harmed. We'll see! The seeds I'm throwing in there are just for fall decoration items, so while I would have preferred not to have any additional chemicals in there, all the corn stalks and pumpkins are just going to end up decorating the front lawn come fall so it shouldn't really matter.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 6:43PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
annebert(6b/7a MD)

Lightly dampening the soil a couple of times a day never got the water through the "somewhat hard crust" you noticed, so the seeds are just sitting there waiting for water. Instead, you should water thoroughly and deeply (like a good soaking rainstorm) a couple of times a week to soak the soil to a good depth. Overwatering is more of an indoor problem where the soil volume is limited. Outdoors, you can't really overwater unless you leave standing water.

Also, your partially finished and unscreened compost is actually quite a different medium from what Coleman used. There may be clumps of soil with large air spaces where the seeds' roots can't touch soil and can't get water. I'm not faulting you for this - I'm not always fussy enough to sift my compost (as compared to my father's beds of almost 100% carefully sifted compost that looked like chocolate cake...) but you have to be careful that big clumps are broken up and that the seed are pressed into the soil to get good germination.

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 11:54AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
bswampy

Thanks Dicot and Annebert. You are right about the watering. Things are looking a little better already after the heavy rain on Monday. Oh well, I guess thats why they call it trial and error!

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 9:37AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

White stuff on the surface of the potting medium is not a sign of damping off at all, so lucky for you. I suspect that it's just a simple mold growing on a surface that might be kept too moist. Sometimes, hard water (as well as fertilizer) can add to the problem.

I'd guess that the yellow water is simply dissolved organic compounds from the potting mix. I wouldn't worry about it. Or, if you mean outside dirt when you use the word 'soil', then the yellow could be the clay and/or silt washing away.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2008 at 1:50PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
daisyk(6)

Thanks for the information. I don't think its damping off either. The hollyhock & blue fescue is doing really well. I haven't fertlized any of them yet. Yes the yellow is the water that is running out the bottom. I have lost a few more seedling, but I think that is because I left them outside to bake in the sun. It's a learning experince for me. I will try again next year. I have big plans for next year..lol

    Bookmark     May 1, 2008 at 7:26PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
pj76(6)

I have found it easier to use the smaller 12 cell jiffy trays for my peat pellets. It gives me more flexibility to adjust smaller batches than the large 72 cell trays. As for lighting I use a timer with a powerstrip that feeds a whole bunch of "100 watt equivalent" CFL bulbs. Using clamp lamps and these bulbs I have a tone of leeway in adjusting the small trays to recieve the appropriate light. The small trays also allow you to keep the pellets bottom watered easier than the large trays.

    Bookmark     April 7, 2008 at 8:44AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
wally2007(Zone 6)

I started these mid to late March in portable green house. Bottom fed in plastic trays, not overwatered or fertilized, followed hardening off steps, moved them in and out of cellar each evening. They were really thriving with good leaf growth almost 2" high. With little sun exposure from these past few days I noticed them to start to wilt so I transplanted them (root expansion) in a larger container and used a little MG Quick start (Transplant mixture) Today I noticed them even wilted more. It seems that I have a few tomatoe plants starting to wilt also. All help and advice greatly appreciated.
Thank You.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2008 at 3:22PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I assume you mean to start hardening them off? What kind of seedlings are they? You still have what, 3 weeks till planting time in Zone 5? Once out you don't want to have to bring them back in and start all over so I wouldn't rush it. ;)

There are posts today on several forums from folks in zone 6 and 7 that got frosted last night and lost stuff and others south of you are expecting it tonight.

You'd hate to have put in all this work and then lose them due to rushing it.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 29, 2008 at 6:37PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ontheteam(5a-6 (S.Eastern, MA))

agree a warmish zone 5 here and I had to go cover all the roses and shrub I have leafing out here and that took an hr i can't imagine the time it would have taken to cover/move all my starts.
I may take a chance and plant out the sun flowers this weekend. they are getting a little tall for the plant ghetto

http://picasaweb.google.com/ontheteam

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 9:29PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
georgez5il(z5 IL)

those that do NOT require a cold period sow after l;ast danger of frost in your area... those that require a cold period sow late fall or early winter.....
to know which is which is the trick.

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 8:24PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
georgez5il(z5 IL)

some indirect light may be required to germinate this plant but not direct sun all day long......... & the seedling will require indirect light to grow & develope untill 3rd or 4th set of leaves form...... then gradually increase light exposure till full sun SO>>>>> dont leave in sun all day......

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 8:19PM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™