6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ornata(London UK (8/9?))

Given the rapidity with which they self-seed all over my garden, I am guessing that they are not too fussy about germination conditions! However, Tom Clothier and Thompson & Morgan both say that Myosotis sylvatica needs light for germination.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2008 at 7:21AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ladygladys(z5b/6a NEPA)

Thank you ornata! I'm glad that they are not too picky!

Gladys

    Bookmark     April 17, 2008 at 3:40PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
trancegemini_wa(10b)

yes its time to get them out of those punnets and into plastic cups or something similar in size. they need some room to grow on and also need a feed once the true leaves start to develop. keeping them in those greenhouses is likely to be what's holding them back.

    Bookmark     April 16, 2008 at 7:13AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
adair_2008

Thank you all for help.I am doing that today. I did that with the salpiglossis and the lupins and they are getting too bug for the small pots,but there are no flowers yet.

    Bookmark     April 17, 2008 at 2:49PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You are apparently planting one of the new seedless hybrids like Ruby Hybrid Seedless, correct? If so, they are not self-pollinating like most melons as they produce only female blooms.

So you need to a)germinate (and plant with them) the enclosed pollinator variety in order to get melons on the hybrid or b) when you plant the germinated hybrids also plant at least 2 of the pollinator seeds in the same hill. They will sprout there to act as the pollinator.

It is quicker and surer production if you pre-germinate the pollinator variety too. But it works either way. Just be sure to mark which is which.

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 16, 2008 at 2:27PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yes, plants still have to be hardened off - whatever your greenhouse is made of it still filters the light spectrum, stabilizes temps somewhat, and blocks wind. Inside isn't the same as outside. ;) Doesn't take as long but still required.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 8:28PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
arjo_reich

IIRC, sevin is a very bad-bad thing for honeybees and can kill entire colonies if it makes its way back to a hive. Newer labeling indicates its "adverse effects on local honeybee colonies" but they play down it's devastating effects.

:just my 2-bits:

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 10:55PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
georgez5il(z5 IL)

I have a similar problem with my spouce. I use a small fence. sign..... or (last resort) threat of physical harm to protect certain plants..

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 4:43PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
kids2spoyl(S.E.Tx_8)

Hi Sepp,

You might want to try to show these on the "Name That Plant" forum here at Gardenweb.

Good luck!

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 1:46PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
arjo_reich

I usually wait until the seedlings are 3"+ or higher - or until they have their second or third set of "true leaves" - before thinning them. Then, I simply pinch out the ones that have the weakest stems and/or the least amount of growth...

Hope that helps...

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 10:30AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sheys-garden(7b)

Thanks for the advice.Wont leaving them close together make them grow slower though,also could I not just HOS them.I am so anxious to get these started in baskets.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 1:42PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tuscanseed(7)

Hi Bob-let me start off by saying that I start thousands of seeds each year successfully. Those Chinese lanterns are the worst for starting inside, as they always get leggy no matter what and fall over. It's the nature of their non-ability to adapt to inside starting, and not necessarily dampoff. You can grow them under the best conditions inside and they still just falter the majority of the time. I think they are best direct sown outside. Are you keeping your lights for the other flowers close to the seedlings? With Chinese lanterns out of the equation, are you having problems with other flower seedlings? Sunflowers normally get taller stems and can become weak to not hold up the seedlings if the light is too far way from the top leaves. Are the sunflowers falling over and dying, or are they falling over with leggy stems and still growing?

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 10:37AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Jeremy Costenbader(5)

Thanks for the info but Leggy I understand and yes they have been some what leggy, I have the lights about 5-7 inches off the trays. But its more like if you see a dried out plant. But I keep watering them and again others keep moving on. Can it be the peat pots sucking the water and bottom watering is no good?

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 11:25AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Herp - There are good books and terrible books just as with anything. But I fear this book has either seriously misled you or it is open to other interpretations. Surely the author of a gardening book would know how seeds germinate and the hazards of exposing young seedlings to bacteria and excess nitrogen. You said "seed starting mix" in your original post. Did they intend you to use peat pellets for germination instead? Perhaps they meant for it to be added to the growing mix, not the germination mix?

Seedlings don't need and can't even absorb/use calcium until after they develop the second set of trues leaves. Normally at that time they have to be transplanted anyway into larger containers with a good balanced soil-less growing mix - most of which have added nutrients in the form that the plants can use.

And the sugars in the Jello provide a happy breeding ground for all sorts of potentially harmful bacteria and mold. They love it! But it doesn't help the plant.

Since you used the peat pellets, which are prone to mold and mildew problems all on their own, your problem is compounded. Hopefully you aren't keeping them really wet - just barely moist only and let them dry out between waterings. Roots need air as much as they need water and wet soil doesn't allow them that oxygen.

So try this: separate the pellets that have germinated from the ones that have not. Return the ones that have not germinated to the heating pad/mat or whatever you are using but prop the cover over them 1/2 way open for more air and give them a bit more time to germinate. Remember that not all will so don't expect them to.

Meanwhile mix up a spray bottle of 1 part hydrogen peroxide (sold in drug stores) and 9 parts water and lightly mist, DON'T soak, the germinated pellets that have the fungus on them. Aim for the fungus, not the plant as much as possible. If the un-sprouted ones have fungus growing on them you can mist them too. Then add the fan to increase the air circulation and withhold water until the plants just being to get wilty before watering them again. Don't let them sit in water - pour it in the tray, let them absorb what they want, and then dump the rest.

As soon as possible, peel the netting off the pellets and get these transplanted into other containers like drink cups with drain holes cut in the bottom. Plant the pellets deeply into the cups filled with a good quality soil-less (no jello or milk) potting mix - cover the entire pellet with the fresh mix and they should then do fine. If you buy one with fertilizers already in it, fine. If not, feed them 1x with a 1/4 strength mix of a good liquid fertilizer.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Dave

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 11:27PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tuscanseed(7)

Great advice above.

I just had to comment that this reminds me of my younger years as a kid when I poured milk on pansies to feel better! Needless to say, the pansies smelled like rotted food and they died in the blink of an eye.

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 10:18AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
anewgarden

I think it is safe to put them in almost any kind of pot you want. They seem to like warmth, so I would wait to plant them in the ground until May. So a nice big pot until them would be a good idea. I did them last year for the first time, I lost some before planting time, but many were fine, and they were amazing by August. They take a long time to flower. This year I think I started too many too soon, again, and lost a few, but several are doing well in sunny windows, and I have started others. Don't forget to save the seeds from their pods in the fall. I dried them inside and had many seeds I am using this year. Good Luck!
Audrey zone 7

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 11:47PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
west9491(6)

moonflowers are pretty tough, and i had some germinate THE DAY AFTER i put them in wet paper towels, no nicking or anything...

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 4:42AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
arjo_reich

man, what a time to stumble on this thread. I've gotten the majority of my seeds from burpee this year and I've been wondering WTF there hasn't been any germination from them. The two random packs of seeds I picked up from walmart that were Walmart branded are already up and jumping (mesclun & radishes) and everything else is just sitting there dead.

The worst part is that it takes FOREVER+++ to make those paper pots so I'll be most pissed that I wasted all the work on the pots than I would be on the wasted $$ from the bum seeds.

Crappola.

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 3:54PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ccaggiano

I purchased the majority of my veggies from Burpee. My germination was quite successful with the exception of my eggplants and peppers. I do know that these take a long time so I am still hoping!!

This is my first year starting from seed and have tried several different methods.

I found the best to be the coffee filter/baggie method. I liked that I could check every couple of days to see what was going on. I am a control freak and this suited my anal-ness the best.

Good luck!!!

    Bookmark     April 15, 2008 at 12:30AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Pull back the mulch when direct sowing or transplanting small seedlings, push it back into place when your young plants have gained some size and vigor.

One of the reasons for mulching is to cover and keep weed seeds from germinating, it will do the same for your ornamental/desireable seeds - so move it out of the way temporarily.

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 10:41PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gardeninprogress

Thanks all for the advice!

Just to let you know. . . . I thought I'd post here wondering if someone had some 'creative solutions'. I've not considered clover ~ however, will check into this.

I'm considering even a durable ground cover. I'm not sure grass is optimal for this area.

Also ~ 3 + 2 dogs is ALOT OF FOOT TRAFFIC!!!! Does the clover hold up?

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 1:01PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tuscanseed(7)

Had this scenario years ago with the dogs, mud, and grass graveyard. What I ended up doing was to mulch the entire yard area (this was an urban yard) with 2 inches of pine bark. I had my garden strips along the side of the yard. Dogs would poo in the mulch, easy pickup. Just wash the mulch down with a hose, smells decent with pine or cedar bark, replenish with a bag or two evey few weeks. It saved my sanity, kitchen floor and rugs.

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 10:03PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

I usually have to pull up excess marigolds that have fallen from the plant last fall and been outside all winter.

Sometimes a freeze gets them first. I have a bunch of week old marigolds that just came up on their own outside that got frozen last night. More will probably come up in a few days. They are tough.

    Bookmark     April 11, 2008 at 1:37PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
edburke13(7)

Thanks buddies.

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 4:45PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mamafish_68(5)

I'm using the pellets too, my very first time to do so!
My question is, I've started an assortment of seeds, my problem is with the sunflowers that have popped up, their so top heavy they've fallen over, when I go to a peat/plastic pot, do I pay special attention to the base of the sunflower so it doesnt rot because new dirt is too high?

    Bookmark     April 11, 2008 at 9:49AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ianna(Z5b)

mamafish, I suggest using peatpots because you can simply plant the entire thing in your garden without disturbing the roots. Re your question, first put a layer of soilless mix to the bottom of the pot and then put your peat pellet on top leaving the base of the plant at near the rim of the pot.

Ianna

    Bookmark     April 14, 2008 at 11:57AM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™