6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Here's a link with some suggested temps.
Here is a link that might be useful: Hardening off temps.
The white stuff sounds like a type of fungal contaminate called "cobweb mold" and often times be remedied with a little H2O2 (3% hydrogen peroxide) sprayed directly on the contaminate.
The actual mold is growing beneath the surface of the soil and as it's mycelium (fungal roots, for lack of a better term) consolidates control over the soil it can litterally drown the plants by not allowing any oxygen to filter down into the roots where it needs it. Remember, the leaves need CO2 (carbon dioxide) but the roots need O2 (oxygen) to survive.
Most people advocate bottom watering but this often times only perpetuates the damping off diseases such as the one it sounds like you're experiencing.
generally speaking, I don't try to transplant anything until the second or third set of "true leaves" form or when the plant is at least 3-4" tall...so that might have something to do with it.
Also, I'm not really a big fan of jiffy products with the sole exception of their peat moss "jiffy mix" because it tends to be loaded with trichoderma (forest green mold) and occasionally penicillium (blue-green mold) spores.
What I've been doing recently is using coco-coir (which comes in bricks that when mixed with boiling hot water expands into about 3.5 gallons of material and mixing it about 50/50 with jiffy mix. The jiffy mix is peat moss, perlite and pH balanced with lime to offset the slightly acidic nature of the peat moss. I make pots out of 3.5" x 10" strips of newspaper with a Paper Pot Maker and plant in those.
Same net effect and it gives me yet another way to recycle the newspapers my neighbors would otherwise toss in the trash.
Absolutely you can grow these seeds without a mat (tomato, squash, peppers) and many others. They may take a little longer to germinate but they definitely do not need a heat mat.
Most seeds that do require heat to germinate will say so on the seed packet.
And while a lot of seeds will germinate earlier with bottom heat, there are plenty that are hindered by bottom heat as well.
I've been starting a lot of seeds in the house early for many years and have only started using a heat mat the last couple. The only reason I started using it was because I got one for a gift. I will admit though, it is nice to get faster germination on some things. But definitely not a neccesity for most seeds.
We're north of you in Mass and we have in: cauliflower and broccoli seedlings, spinach, kale, radish, lettuce, and mesclun seed. Carrot seeds going in next weekend.
Some kind soul on here pointed me to the site below where you input your last frost date and it will tell you when to plant what.
Here is a link that might be useful: Planting Spreadsheet
I also find it heartbreaking to have to thin out healthy seedlings, so this year I have been sowing seed really thinly. With seeds that I am pretty sure will give near-100% germination (e.g. Amaranthus, tomato, peppers, coleus) I haved just sowed as many as I think I'll need, plus a couple extra. The seedlings grow better from day one as there is less competition around them and they are less prone to damping off.
From my yard I pull healthy, vigorous weeds, in the prime of life, and I do it without a moment's twinge of conscience. So although I sometimes have a fleeting moment of sorrow for the growing-but-not-quite-big-enough seedlings I'm about to yank, I don't see that they are biologically any more worthy than the weeds I discard so cold-heartedly. Sorry, guys: your misfortune is that you grew from the wrong part of the gene pool. Out you go.
As Al said, do NOT pluck - snip. Plucking damages the roots of the remaining ones so snip off all but 3 in each cell - they can grow in clusters.
The other option is to try to transplant several from each cell to other cells - more poppies...if it works. Poppies don't normally take well to transplanting of any kind so are normally direct seeded.
Good luck. ;)
Dave
Dave: Two more questions and I will stop pestering you. Some of my new tomato plants (just got their first sets of true leaves), the original leaves have brown tips on them. Do you think I am over watering or underwatering? Or is it a light issue? I have a picture of it but can't see how to attach a picture to this message. 2. What should I be feeding my little sprouts in your opinion? You are so knowledgeable!! I really appreciate the help.
I started my peppers using coffee filters. Put them in a warm spot. And they took over three weeks to germinate. They like warmth and do take awhile but don't give up yet.
This is my first year starting seeds and have tried several different methods. I have to say, I like the coffee filter method the best. As a newbie, I like the fact that I can see when the seeds start sprouting without wondering what is going on underneath the soil.
Good luck!!
I discovered last year that mine germinated after 8 months in the fridge. That was way too long as it was the wrong time of year to put in the ground. My seeds this year have been cooking since October and still no sign of growth.
You may have to experiment to find the best. Keep me informed if you find a quick solution.
I think I'm just going to leave them in their starter pots in the greenhouse, water them as needed and see what happens.
I've heard it's easy and hard to grow them, so I'm just going to play the waiting game :)
Thanks to you who responded...knotz :)
If they "get dry" and have to be watered every day then something is wrong. Or they aren't really dry. ;) Turn the thermostat down in the house.
You may discover when you come back that they have thrived while you were gone because they haven't been over-watered. It's a discovery that happens to many as most tend to way over-water their seedlings. ;) Seedlings will tolerate even periods of wilt better than they will excess water.
Dave
I agree... I water my seedlings about once a week. Also, I do not have any heat in the room where the plant stand is. The room stays at around 65-68F daily. I find that if they are watered more than once a week, the seedlings don't grow as well. I've never had much trouble with my seedlings using this method. I check them every day.
The timer is an excellent idea. I use a heavy duty timer from my Christmas Light display. I works great. The lights are on for around 10 hours a day. I only run 2 florescent lamps off of it but that's all I need.
Hi wally - sent you an email. ;)
What are the signs of calcium deficiency?