6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I too have a detest/hate relationship with Virginia Creeper. It was at the back of our property line when we bought the place, and I'm in my third year of trying to eradicate it. I've had better results killing off Poison Ivy than I have Virginia Creeper!
I lucked out and got some climbing hydrangea plants on clearance, 75% off, at the end of the summer last year. The Master Gardener I spoke with told me that they will be very slow growers, but we don't plan on moving anytime soon, and at 75% off, I'm willing to wait a while! ;o)
If you're looking for something "quick and easy", I was very surprised to see how well Morning Glories bloomed in almost complete shade. I had had excellent luck with them out by our pool (full sun), and when the local critters ended up sowing some of the seeds up by our deck (full shade -- I call it the Land of Impatiens and Hostas!), I just let them be, and boy was I surprised to see blooms!!! Granted, not as many as on our pool fence, but they did bloom.
Just be aware that if you start MGs, unless you get a sterile hybrid, you'll have more MG volunteers than you know what to do with next spring! ;o) (they're really easy to yank out, though, and they won't re-grow from tiny bits of root like an invasive)
I start most of my seeds in the greenhouse. As long as your low temps don't get too cold (say below 45 or 50).
Some seeds even need light to germinate, many don't require it and then the seed packet will tell you how deep to plant them. The direct sunlight in your greenhouse is perfect for seedlings, especially with the longer days this time of year. Personally, I only use lights to get an earlier start indoors and give the seedlings enough light (even a sunny window isn't enough).
Some seeds require certain temps to germinate (or to speed germination). I would think most flower and veggie seeds would do just fine in your greenhouse. Anything that says to direct sow or to start so many weeks before last frost would be fine.
If seeds need extra heat for germination or chilling, the seed packet should say so (most cases).
I'm sure you could get more specific instructions if you mentioned the specific seeds you are planting too :) But generally speaking, I'd go for it ;)
Thanks MUCH for your quick and much needed advice. I understand that proper circulation is critical. I don't have a fan, however I have the skirt of the cover raised or open to prevent overheating. I try and maintain a temp between 60 to 80f. Also is it neccessary to cover trays with the clear plastic covers or leave them uncovered. So far I have impatience, poppy, babys breath, various marigolds, moon flower,tidal wave petunia,tomatos and peppers. All advice greatly appreciated. 
It sounds like they are getting leggy from not enough light. Are they growing true leaves yet?
I am continually repotting my tomatoes into bigger and bigger pots each spring. Each time clipping the bottom sets of leaves and planting them deeper and deeper. They will keep growing roots along the stems as they get planted deeper. I've found doing so gives me really strong healthy plants (although I may not have the first tomatoes in the neighborhood).
Within the last couple days they started looking spindily.Should I transplant them in other containers with more potting soil or what.
Hi roxann - they are telling you that they need much more light. ;) Seedlings quickly grow long and "spindly" (we call it 'leggy') when they are not getting enough light and since exposure to direct sunlight is too hard on them, most of us solve the problem by providing artificial light 16-24 hours a day.
There is a great FAQ with pictures on Growing Tomatoes from Seed that I have linked for you below that should help with some details. And be sure to check out all the other FAQ's here too.
As to transplanting, yes you will have to do it sometime as they can't be grown to transplant size in the pellets. They will benefit from transplanting and do it deeply to just below the bottom of the first set of leaves so additional roots can develop along the stems. Then, if you can provide them with a lot more light they won't get spindly again.
Hope this helps. ;)
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: How To Grow Tomatoes from Seed
After you get your zinnias (or tomatoes) started, you can use the shell of the Bio Dome to hold one of Park's Root Trainers - fabulous for larger seeds like cukes or melons which are sensitive to transplanting, also for sweet peas. The case for the Root Trainers has a tendency to come unsnapped at unfortunate times, but that Bio Dome tray holds the case together. I have the older Bio Dome, before they changed to the peaked dome.
Thompson and Morgan sells a version of the Root Trainers with a base that doesn't unsnap, plus a lid you can use for bottom-watering.
Hi carolync1
Thanks for the tip!
I wish i had known about these Root Trainers before? The Zinnia are growing like wild and it would have been great to have them in the RT. I see what you mean about using the Bio Dome tray. I also checked out the Thompson and Morgan one.
I'm pretty much done with formal indoor seed starting
IÂm thinking of starting some more Zinnia outside when the weather heats up. I doubt their roots will get very large enough in 3 weeks to use the Root Trainer. What do you think?
Take Care!
Dale
most seeds like warm temps to germinate. Is your basement open or do you have area that you could isolate for starting seeds. I have a room I start my seeds in that has heat and stays around 70-75 during the winter, If you have duct work in your basement it would be cheaper to add a vent then to purchase heating mats.
But I want to set up a grow rack in my basement for next year. There is no heat in the basement. What would I have to do.
I do have one of those small green houses with a plastic cover and 2 4" grow lights and a few small fans.
You can use your plastic greenhouse of course and keep in mind that your lights will generate some heat too so closing the plastic at night retains that heat very well. You can also add to it 1 100 watt incandescent light fixture (the cheap clamp on ones work well) for additional heat. Incandescents put out much more heat than fluorescents do. Include a thermometer to monitor the temps inside the tent.
You can build an inexpensive additional tent simply by using a set of shelves, more 4' fixtures and draping a plastic sheet over it (painter's drop cloth or the 3-4 mil rolls sold at Wally World work great. Add reflective mylar sheets (camping dept. at Wally World foil survival blanket $1.95) to bottom, back, and sides to double your light exposure. The secret to success is enough lights - the more the better.
Here is pic of one of my set-up in the greenhouse (not heated) before I had all the plant trays etc. in and the lights on so you can see the mylar and the tent. 4 4' fixtures and 3 2' fixtures for each shelf and a small fan for each shelf. Each self also has a clamp on 100 watt incandescent lamp.
It can be 25 degrees outside, 35 degrees in the greenhouse and 65-80 degrees inside the tent with this set-up.
The main problem with basements is mold and mildew so the use of fans and carefully controlling moisture levels is vital down there. Clean the immediate area well first with a 10% chlorox bleach solution - floors and walls.
Good luck with your set-up and enjoy your seedlings. it does get addictive. ;)
Dave
Honestly, most things don't require any pinching. It isn't a health issue but simply an appearance issue and so it's need is purely subjective. So, general guidelines:
If something is long, leggy, lanky, droopy as a result of too little growing light then transplant it deeply instead of pinching (unless it is a bulb or rhizome) and increase the light it gets.
NO: definitely not vegetables (exception noted below), woody single stem plants, tomatoes, peppers, fall flowering plants or shrubs, morning glories, vining plants, some rose varieties, anything grown from a bulb or rhizome
YES: (optional only, not required) geraniums, begonias, fuchsias, snap dragons, ivy, coleus, house plants, members of pumpkin/squash family that are the vining varieties only after well established in the garden - more female blooms develop on the side shoots.
Dave
Here's your picture:
Like I said, the third url down under the photo that is labeled HTML Code
- just C&P it in your post.
This is just one lamp fixture per shelf, correct? And it is way to far above the center seedlings because of the high cups on the end. That's why the seedlings are getting leggy reaching for the light.
You can either cut those cups down (they don't need to be nearly that big for such small seedlings. Or group them all at one end and tilt the fixture so that it is much closer to the low ones. Not ideal but will help some.
But for all those seedlings you really need 2 fixtures hung side to side, right next to each other with the plants centered under them. The light at the ends of the tubes is 1/2 what it is in the center. It also allows you to adjust their height individually as needed.
How old are the bulbs? They lose power over a season so fresh ones each year make a big difference.
Hope this helps some.
Dave
A small fan set on low and at a distance far enough away to only create a slight breeze is commonly recommended for growing seedlings. There are many posts here about their use that a search will pull up for you.
Not only does it strengthen the plant stems but improves air circulation around the plants to help prevent disease - esp. damp-off.
Dave
Check out all the FAQ's over on the Saving Seed Forum (linked at the top of this forum's front page) for detailed instructions on how to save and store seeds. Most all are viable for many years if stored properly.
Enjoy your seedlings. ;)
Dave
I would move the plants in an out for a couple of weeks gradually increasing the stay under the direct sun. Rmember the sun has a much greater intensity than the lights and the plants have to be acclimated to the increased intensity or they will burn.
Right now I have the wind part covered with the fan on them.
Nope. ;)
Having had a fan on them isn't the same has exposing them to wind outside. Hardening off plants is a gradual process, done over at least a week for a slowly increased # of hours a day, out of the direct sun for the first few days and sheltered from winds. Keep in mind that the wind can even kill semi-established plants in the garden.
I'm going from 24hr/day artificial light to 14+(?) hrs/day daylight.
If you are still 1 month from plant out it's too soon to harden off anyway. Don't rush things now and risk all your hard work. ;) Cut your light timer to 12/12 for a week or so and any that will soon be too big for their current container, transplant now. That way they have some adjustment/recovery time before you harden them off.
Good luck. ;)
Dave
Are you talking about Camellia sinensis (tea)? If so, camellia seeds, once harvested from their 'pods', must be planted promptly or they lose viability. The pods need to ripen on the plant and the seeds collected when they naturally split open. I don't believe that this is the time of year to collect camellia seeds.
Perhaps you are talking about the 'Ti' plant?
The pelleting is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. Get wet and slough off the seed. The pellet is there only to make this seed sowable. Place 1 seed on a piece of white paper, and add a drop of water. Stir it around with a pin until it dissolves - that tiny dark speck you see is the actual petunia seed.
You ought to invest in a misting nozzle for your hose. Then you can use water (the best way) to settle the seeds in, without any disturbance. I've had my 'Fogg-It' for about 20 years!
I use it to settle transplants into their new containers, too. You'll get perfect soil-to-root contact without having to tamp the oxygen out of the soil.
I've never planted by the moon and my plants flourish. I've planted under the moon, if that one counts! Planting by the moon is still popular, as I know some people who follow this practice. There is a vendor near me who sells out of his lunar calendars every year. The calendars have the moon phases and planting guides, also the calendar pages do not start with the first day of each month. Interesting calendars, to say the least. He actually maintains a waiting list for the next year's calendars. I guess whatever sits right with you and how you view the forces of life in this world.
I plant my seeds that I start indoors when it is convenient to do so. However, I do keep an eye on the moon for the seeds that I direct sow and when I set out my seedlings. Because a full moon and a clear sky that falls within 7 days before or 2 weeks after my last frost date is a sure combo for a killing frost, regardless of what the daytime temps look like. After the full moon, we are pretty much safe.
Our last frost date is about the 26th of may. We have a full moon on the 19th this year so I'll likely plant bean and cuke seeds right into the garden on the 16th. They won't have sprouted by the 19th. Seedlings I will set out a few days after the full moon. Unless, of course, we are having unusually cool weather at the time. We'll see. Kay.