6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Honestly, most things don't require any pinching. It isn't a health issue but simply an appearance issue and so it's need is purely subjective. So, general guidelines:
If something is long, leggy, lanky, droopy as a result of too little growing light then transplant it deeply instead of pinching (unless it is a bulb or rhizome) and increase the light it gets.
NO: definitely not vegetables (exception noted below), woody single stem plants, tomatoes, peppers, fall flowering plants or shrubs, morning glories, vining plants, some rose varieties, anything grown from a bulb or rhizome
YES: (optional only, not required) geraniums, begonias, fuchsias, snap dragons, ivy, coleus, house plants, members of pumpkin/squash family that are the vining varieties only after well established in the garden - more female blooms develop on the side shoots.
Dave
Here's your picture:
Like I said, the third url down under the photo that is labeled HTML Code
- just C&P it in your post.
This is just one lamp fixture per shelf, correct? And it is way to far above the center seedlings because of the high cups on the end. That's why the seedlings are getting leggy reaching for the light.
You can either cut those cups down (they don't need to be nearly that big for such small seedlings. Or group them all at one end and tilt the fixture so that it is much closer to the low ones. Not ideal but will help some.
But for all those seedlings you really need 2 fixtures hung side to side, right next to each other with the plants centered under them. The light at the ends of the tubes is 1/2 what it is in the center. It also allows you to adjust their height individually as needed.
How old are the bulbs? They lose power over a season so fresh ones each year make a big difference.
Hope this helps some.
Dave
A small fan set on low and at a distance far enough away to only create a slight breeze is commonly recommended for growing seedlings. There are many posts here about their use that a search will pull up for you.
Not only does it strengthen the plant stems but improves air circulation around the plants to help prevent disease - esp. damp-off.
Dave
Check out all the FAQ's over on the Saving Seed Forum (linked at the top of this forum's front page) for detailed instructions on how to save and store seeds. Most all are viable for many years if stored properly.
Enjoy your seedlings. ;)
Dave
I would move the plants in an out for a couple of weeks gradually increasing the stay under the direct sun. Rmember the sun has a much greater intensity than the lights and the plants have to be acclimated to the increased intensity or they will burn.
Right now I have the wind part covered with the fan on them.
Nope. ;)
Having had a fan on them isn't the same has exposing them to wind outside. Hardening off plants is a gradual process, done over at least a week for a slowly increased # of hours a day, out of the direct sun for the first few days and sheltered from winds. Keep in mind that the wind can even kill semi-established plants in the garden.
I'm going from 24hr/day artificial light to 14+(?) hrs/day daylight.
If you are still 1 month from plant out it's too soon to harden off anyway. Don't rush things now and risk all your hard work. ;) Cut your light timer to 12/12 for a week or so and any that will soon be too big for their current container, transplant now. That way they have some adjustment/recovery time before you harden them off.
Good luck. ;)
Dave
Are you talking about Camellia sinensis (tea)? If so, camellia seeds, once harvested from their 'pods', must be planted promptly or they lose viability. The pods need to ripen on the plant and the seeds collected when they naturally split open. I don't believe that this is the time of year to collect camellia seeds.
Perhaps you are talking about the 'Ti' plant?
The pelleting is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. Get wet and slough off the seed. The pellet is there only to make this seed sowable. Place 1 seed on a piece of white paper, and add a drop of water. Stir it around with a pin until it dissolves - that tiny dark speck you see is the actual petunia seed.
You ought to invest in a misting nozzle for your hose. Then you can use water (the best way) to settle the seeds in, without any disturbance. I've had my 'Fogg-It' for about 20 years!
I use it to settle transplants into their new containers, too. You'll get perfect soil-to-root contact without having to tamp the oxygen out of the soil.
Yeah, I did Cosmos for the first time this year and those little things are real suckers...of water that is.
Yes, you can use Miracle Grow DILUTED to 1/4 strength. But nothing needs feeding until after it fully develops it's first set of true leaves. Until then they live off the food in the cotyledons. So don't start too soon or overdue it.
Also if you have transplanted them into a growing media mix with ferts added, they won't need anything else.
Enjoy your plants.
Dave
sounds, good, i've been sticking my pinky as far away from the seedling as i can in the soil to check moisture, even though the tops not really getting wet look, but thats probably cuz i added more potting mix and didn't pack it down, thank you though....
I also wonder the same, how much water. I have just transplanted my seeds into larger jiffy pots. I'm worried of over watering. I have been using a turkey baster to add a bit of watter to each plant. I have to say the watering part is the hardest to guess at.
meli, I would be surprised if cold stratifying seeds (overwintering planted seeds in a cold/cool place) of tropical plants is helpful. If you do replant, I think it would be better to start those on a heat mat in the spring.
Basil and melon can be started in spring.
Japanese maple and delosperma can probably use a cold period, so these might come up fine. Not sure about the geranium.
I used to grow in a green house also and but I had heat and lots of lights.I could not move it when I moved 9 yrs ago so now,I winter sow.It,is easy,it works,its cheap,and I have literally hundresd of plants.Join us and see the results.
moonphase
Thanks. Lots of differing opinions! Deno says all incarvillea seem to be quick 70D germinators, found some others who said give them light. Consequently, I have one group in the dark, one in light. All are in fairly warm places. The one in the light is pretty damp. Guess I can still try to air it out/wait a while.
most seeds like warm temps to germinate. Is your basement open or do you have area that you could isolate for starting seeds. I have a room I start my seeds in that has heat and stays around 70-75 during the winter, If you have duct work in your basement it would be cheaper to add a vent then to purchase heating mats.
But I want to set up a grow rack in my basement for next year. There is no heat in the basement. What would I have to do.
I do have one of those small green houses with a plastic cover and 2 4" grow lights and a few small fans.
You can use your plastic greenhouse of course and keep in mind that your lights will generate some heat too so closing the plastic at night retains that heat very well. You can also add to it 1 100 watt incandescent light fixture (the cheap clamp on ones work well) for additional heat. Incandescents put out much more heat than fluorescents do. Include a thermometer to monitor the temps inside the tent.
You can build an inexpensive additional tent simply by using a set of shelves, more 4' fixtures and draping a plastic sheet over it (painter's drop cloth or the 3-4 mil rolls sold at Wally World work great. Add reflective mylar sheets (camping dept. at Wally World foil survival blanket $1.95) to bottom, back, and sides to double your light exposure. The secret to success is enough lights - the more the better.
Here is pic of one of my set-up in the greenhouse (not heated) before I had all the plant trays etc. in and the lights on so you can see the mylar and the tent. 4 4' fixtures and 3 2' fixtures for each shelf and a small fan for each shelf. Each self also has a clamp on 100 watt incandescent lamp.
It can be 25 degrees outside, 35 degrees in the greenhouse and 65-80 degrees inside the tent with this set-up.
The main problem with basements is mold and mildew so the use of fans and carefully controlling moisture levels is vital down there. Clean the immediate area well first with a 10% chlorox bleach solution - floors and walls.
Good luck with your set-up and enjoy your seedlings. it does get addictive. ;)
Dave