6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I would move the plants in an out for a couple of weeks gradually increasing the stay under the direct sun. Rmember the sun has a much greater intensity than the lights and the plants have to be acclimated to the increased intensity or they will burn.
Right now I have the wind part covered with the fan on them.
Nope. ;)
Having had a fan on them isn't the same has exposing them to wind outside. Hardening off plants is a gradual process, done over at least a week for a slowly increased # of hours a day, out of the direct sun for the first few days and sheltered from winds. Keep in mind that the wind can even kill semi-established plants in the garden.
I'm going from 24hr/day artificial light to 14+(?) hrs/day daylight.
If you are still 1 month from plant out it's too soon to harden off anyway. Don't rush things now and risk all your hard work. ;) Cut your light timer to 12/12 for a week or so and any that will soon be too big for their current container, transplant now. That way they have some adjustment/recovery time before you harden them off.
Good luck. ;)
Dave
Are you talking about Camellia sinensis (tea)? If so, camellia seeds, once harvested from their 'pods', must be planted promptly or they lose viability. The pods need to ripen on the plant and the seeds collected when they naturally split open. I don't believe that this is the time of year to collect camellia seeds.
Perhaps you are talking about the 'Ti' plant?
The pelleting is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. Get wet and slough off the seed. The pellet is there only to make this seed sowable. Place 1 seed on a piece of white paper, and add a drop of water. Stir it around with a pin until it dissolves - that tiny dark speck you see is the actual petunia seed.
You ought to invest in a misting nozzle for your hose. Then you can use water (the best way) to settle the seeds in, without any disturbance. I've had my 'Fogg-It' for about 20 years!
I use it to settle transplants into their new containers, too. You'll get perfect soil-to-root contact without having to tamp the oxygen out of the soil.
Yeah, I did Cosmos for the first time this year and those little things are real suckers...of water that is.
Yes, you can use Miracle Grow DILUTED to 1/4 strength. But nothing needs feeding until after it fully develops it's first set of true leaves. Until then they live off the food in the cotyledons. So don't start too soon or overdue it.
Also if you have transplanted them into a growing media mix with ferts added, they won't need anything else.
Enjoy your plants.
Dave
sounds, good, i've been sticking my pinky as far away from the seedling as i can in the soil to check moisture, even though the tops not really getting wet look, but thats probably cuz i added more potting mix and didn't pack it down, thank you though....
I also wonder the same, how much water. I have just transplanted my seeds into larger jiffy pots. I'm worried of over watering. I have been using a turkey baster to add a bit of watter to each plant. I have to say the watering part is the hardest to guess at.
meli, I would be surprised if cold stratifying seeds (overwintering planted seeds in a cold/cool place) of tropical plants is helpful. If you do replant, I think it would be better to start those on a heat mat in the spring.
Basil and melon can be started in spring.
Japanese maple and delosperma can probably use a cold period, so these might come up fine. Not sure about the geranium.
I used to grow in a green house also and but I had heat and lots of lights.I could not move it when I moved 9 yrs ago so now,I winter sow.It,is easy,it works,its cheap,and I have literally hundresd of plants.Join us and see the results.
moonphase
Thanks. Lots of differing opinions! Deno says all incarvillea seem to be quick 70D germinators, found some others who said give them light. Consequently, I have one group in the dark, one in light. All are in fairly warm places. The one in the light is pretty damp. Guess I can still try to air it out/wait a while.
I've always used the heat from the lights before germination and never use bottom heat. My flats are in an unheated room, too. I've had very good success with my method and I wouldn't change a thing. Your setup sounds fantastic. My only question would be the flat in darkness, not under lights. If you need a heat source for this one, then use the top of your fridge. I still put seeds needing darness under lights before germination, and have put pieces of cardboard/kraft paper over top of the cell packs on these ones. The nice thing about being a beginner is that you will use tidbits from other people and find out what works best for you :)
They get their 'darkness' because you've buried them in the soil. Those that require light to germinate need to be sown on top of the soil. Tomato seed germination can definitely be suppressed by exposure to light.
Seed germination rate varies because of seed depth, seed-to-soil contact (moisture absorption), as well as other variables. It wouldn't be unusual for this to happen, unless the seeds are sown by mechanical seeders.
well, that makes sense also. So, just for the sake of not losing any, I can open the door of the room they are in, I can take off the towel they are under! Provide warmth and place under lights as soon as any sprouts appear as tuscanseed advised. Believe it or not, I am not new to this as last year had a nice heirloom selection and wound up giving so, so many away. But, so simple, they are in the soil and it is dark down there!!
Thanks for the info. I did save some cosmos to plant in the garden. All my seed are total expermints, some for indoor & some for outdoor.
Thanks from a Ct grower
Check out all the FAQ's over on the Saving Seed Forum (linked at the top of this forum's front page) for detailed instructions on how to save and store seeds. Most all are viable for many years if stored properly.
Enjoy your seedlings. ;)
Dave