6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Yeah, I did Cosmos for the first time this year and those little things are real suckers...of water that is.
Yes, you can use Miracle Grow DILUTED to 1/4 strength. But nothing needs feeding until after it fully develops it's first set of true leaves. Until then they live off the food in the cotyledons. So don't start too soon or overdue it.
Also if you have transplanted them into a growing media mix with ferts added, they won't need anything else.
Enjoy your plants.
Dave
sounds, good, i've been sticking my pinky as far away from the seedling as i can in the soil to check moisture, even though the tops not really getting wet look, but thats probably cuz i added more potting mix and didn't pack it down, thank you though....
I also wonder the same, how much water. I have just transplanted my seeds into larger jiffy pots. I'm worried of over watering. I have been using a turkey baster to add a bit of watter to each plant. I have to say the watering part is the hardest to guess at.
meli, I would be surprised if cold stratifying seeds (overwintering planted seeds in a cold/cool place) of tropical plants is helpful. If you do replant, I think it would be better to start those on a heat mat in the spring.
Basil and melon can be started in spring.
Japanese maple and delosperma can probably use a cold period, so these might come up fine. Not sure about the geranium.
I used to grow in a green house also and but I had heat and lots of lights.I could not move it when I moved 9 yrs ago so now,I winter sow.It,is easy,it works,its cheap,and I have literally hundresd of plants.Join us and see the results.
moonphase
Thanks. Lots of differing opinions! Deno says all incarvillea seem to be quick 70D germinators, found some others who said give them light. Consequently, I have one group in the dark, one in light. All are in fairly warm places. The one in the light is pretty damp. Guess I can still try to air it out/wait a while.
I've always used the heat from the lights before germination and never use bottom heat. My flats are in an unheated room, too. I've had very good success with my method and I wouldn't change a thing. Your setup sounds fantastic. My only question would be the flat in darkness, not under lights. If you need a heat source for this one, then use the top of your fridge. I still put seeds needing darness under lights before germination, and have put pieces of cardboard/kraft paper over top of the cell packs on these ones. The nice thing about being a beginner is that you will use tidbits from other people and find out what works best for you :)
They get their 'darkness' because you've buried them in the soil. Those that require light to germinate need to be sown on top of the soil. Tomato seed germination can definitely be suppressed by exposure to light.
Seed germination rate varies because of seed depth, seed-to-soil contact (moisture absorption), as well as other variables. It wouldn't be unusual for this to happen, unless the seeds are sown by mechanical seeders.
well, that makes sense also. So, just for the sake of not losing any, I can open the door of the room they are in, I can take off the towel they are under! Provide warmth and place under lights as soon as any sprouts appear as tuscanseed advised. Believe it or not, I am not new to this as last year had a nice heirloom selection and wound up giving so, so many away. But, so simple, they are in the soil and it is dark down there!!
It depends on the seed and how they're stored, but some seeds can be good for several years(like tomatoes) and some seeds need to be obtained each year(like lettuce). Here's a link to a previous post on the subject. If you do a search on 'seed viability' you should find quite a bit more info. HTH.
Here is a link that might be useful: seed viability
I sow old seeds all the time! Some seeds will remain capabale of germination for quite a long time. Others will become nonviable very fast. I think I have learned this year that ipomopsis rubra is one of those whose seeds don't last a long time.
Some seeds (tree and shrub seeds, mostly) sprout more readily if sown fresh. If you wait until midsummer or so, then you have to go through the whole cold stratification process, sometimes twice, to get them to wake up.
Chliol,
-One gallon milk jugs, washed, holes punched in bottom for drainage
-On one side, at the base of the handle portion of the milk jug, begin cutting all the way around until you reach the other side but don't cut completely through. You want the jug to remain connected at the base of the handle. This creates a "hinged" container.
-Fill bottom with moistened, good quality potting soil.
-Add seeds
-Seal with duct tape
Put container outside with the milk cap off in a sunny location well exposed to rain and snowfall.
These containers are great for sowing just about any seed at any time of year really. But you should come on over to the winter sowing forum and check it out. Other people have different methods of cutting and resealing their milk jugs. The way I described is but one.
Sorry, didn't mean to take over the OP thread but couldn't resist answering the latest question posted by Chliol.
Don't see why not. Your cold frame sounds like a greenhouse ;)
I practice the same starting technique with my greenhouse. The heater I have out there ensures the temp doesn't drop below 45 degrees at night.
I'm always a little skittish moving things out for the first week until I have the temps well under control (ensuring the fans run during the day and heat is working right at night). So for the first few days to a week I'll select some "sacrifical lambs", a sampling of all the seedlings I have to move out, and set those out first. If they fair well after a few days to a week (and I become brave) I'll move everything out there.
My room is VERY cool, and it is always cool. I have no idea why that is. Thank you so much for telling me! I would have never even thought of that. I'll probably move them to a warmer room and set the grow light down further. Thanks again!
Can you take them outside on warm days? Tomatoes do not like temperatures below 50º F and any exposure to these low temps will slow them down...