6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
It depends on the seed and how they're stored, but some seeds can be good for several years(like tomatoes) and some seeds need to be obtained each year(like lettuce). Here's a link to a previous post on the subject. If you do a search on 'seed viability' you should find quite a bit more info. HTH.
Here is a link that might be useful: seed viability
I sow old seeds all the time! Some seeds will remain capabale of germination for quite a long time. Others will become nonviable very fast. I think I have learned this year that ipomopsis rubra is one of those whose seeds don't last a long time.
Some seeds (tree and shrub seeds, mostly) sprout more readily if sown fresh. If you wait until midsummer or so, then you have to go through the whole cold stratification process, sometimes twice, to get them to wake up.
Chliol,
-One gallon milk jugs, washed, holes punched in bottom for drainage
-On one side, at the base of the handle portion of the milk jug, begin cutting all the way around until you reach the other side but don't cut completely through. You want the jug to remain connected at the base of the handle. This creates a "hinged" container.
-Fill bottom with moistened, good quality potting soil.
-Add seeds
-Seal with duct tape
Put container outside with the milk cap off in a sunny location well exposed to rain and snowfall.
These containers are great for sowing just about any seed at any time of year really. But you should come on over to the winter sowing forum and check it out. Other people have different methods of cutting and resealing their milk jugs. The way I described is but one.
Sorry, didn't mean to take over the OP thread but couldn't resist answering the latest question posted by Chliol.
Don't see why not. Your cold frame sounds like a greenhouse ;)
I practice the same starting technique with my greenhouse. The heater I have out there ensures the temp doesn't drop below 45 degrees at night.
I'm always a little skittish moving things out for the first week until I have the temps well under control (ensuring the fans run during the day and heat is working right at night). So for the first few days to a week I'll select some "sacrifical lambs", a sampling of all the seedlings I have to move out, and set those out first. If they fair well after a few days to a week (and I become brave) I'll move everything out there.
I have the same thing but noticed with more light and some sand and tea water they seem to be standing up again. I am going to try a transplant to a larger continer because they are in seed flats now.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Once germinated (that needs higher temps) 60-65 is a good growing-on temp range as it slows top growth, allows roots to catch up, and encourages sturdy plants (assuming sufficient light - very important). It is the temp range maintained by many greenhouses for plants so you should be ok plus your lights will also provide some localized heat.
But basements can be more moldy so good air circ and low humidity will help. Good luck.
Dave
Considering I probably have $5000 worth of plants in there, he considers it a bargain! Still need to know how the daturas should be repotted. Have brugs but this is the first time with daturas. Do they have deep roots or a wide rooting system? Rec'd 1 seedpod from a friend & now have 28 double lavender swirls. Selling all but 2 for myself & need to keep potting those 2 up until they can fill 2 big, beautiful 18" pots. Any suggestions?
Carol
I have nothing but good things to say about Value Seeds. I was turned on to this company 2 months ago by GW members. I have had great germination rates. Their shipping was a little slow, bot tolerable. For the price, I can't go wrong.
Chris
I'm curious to try these, especially to produce transplants of plants with sensitive roots such as melons, cukes, and squash (and even peas and beans). Are there any problems caused by the soil being wetter than with the usual seed-starting method? With capillary matting, do roots grow out the bottom? Is a moist capillary mat enough to keep the top of the block (where the seed is) moist during germination? Would you still use a humidity dome? Do blocks require any special attention?
Emily,
You have to "charge the blocker" a few times to get the blocks to compress together. By that time the blocker will feel very heavy and will want to stick to the bottom of your tub. This is when you have to tilt slightly while turning at the same time to release the suction off the bottom. And, Elliot Coleman's recipe is all about using good rich garden soil and well aged vegetable compost. Did you try those two ingredients?
Here is a link that might be useful: The world's resource for soil block gardening.
Not big shrubs, but tall annuals. Sow 75-80F days, drop temps by 10F at night helpful. Germination within approx 14 days, if no germination in that length of time give the seeds 2 weeks moist chill and bring back to warmth. Or, just begin with the 2 weeks moist chill and assume they will need it :)
"Start seeds indoors four weeks before the last frost or plant them directly outdoors in spring after danger of frost has passed. Space the plants about 1 foot apart. They will often reseed themselves. The seeds will lie dormant until spring. Hybrids will not breed true"
I had three of these beautiful plants in S. Texas but moved to Arkansas, (hard to believe it but same zone)!
I know they make a lot of seeds, but mine were too old by the time we found a permanent home. None of them came up.
Does anyone have some seeds from last year that they would part with? I would be glad to pay something for them, and the postage.
Potting soil as opposed to potting mixes should be avoided whenever possible but since they are already in it, good luck. ;)
Dave
I think they'll be fine. Special seed starting mix can be helpful, but really isn't necessary.