6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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karyn1(7a)

Thanks pottingblockguru. I knew they were a nightshade but had never heard those other names, just yesterday, today and tomorrow. Maybe I shouldn't give up on the others that I planted yet as it's only been a few weeks? About how long for germination?
Karyn

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 6:56AM
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coke_nut(9b Orlando)

Karyn,
I have a bush if you want a cutting. LMK.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 9:16PM
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zengeos(5 Maine)

These haven't even really started to leaf out yet. They are just 3" long white hairs.

I have them in medium light, not direct sun as I don't want them all to shrivel and die.

I guess I'll just have to see what happens. If they leaf out, perhaps, when I transplant them I can plant them deeper so they won't be so leggy...

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 1:45PM
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origami_master(5b)

Schizanthus is what we call a dicot. It has two seed leaves or cotyledons. and no matter how leggy a seedling gets even right after germination, you should be able to see the cotyledons, no matte how small. your description doesn't sound like a dicot seedling.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 8:18PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I don't know if you mean true indigo - Indigofera (hot water soak 24 hours, sow cool 55-65F for germination in 30-90 days) OR, false indigo, Baptisia (Pour hot water over seeds, let soak 1-3 days until swelling noticeable. Sow at 68ºF for germination in more than two weeks).

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 4:41PM
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highlandsgardener(Z6 Louisville)

If your vine is a campsis radicans, you probably won't have to do a thing. They grow like weeds.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 12:19PM
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highlandsgardener(Z6 Louisville)

Sorry, just saw your second post on the subject. If the vine is purple & white, it's obviously not campsis. Do you know the botanical name?

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 12:25PM
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bizzarbazzar(3/4)

All I have to say is WOW! Well said feldon. I have made lame attempts at growing from the seeds from produce from grocery stores or plant stands and have realized they may not be true to parent, but if they taste like garbage to begin with, and taste like garbage after I harvest them they are still garbage. If someone likes the tasteless produce at the store, they will like the tasteless veggies they produce. Case closed. I like to buy seeds, and have great plants or trade seeds and have great plants. I surely dont want what I pay the grocery store for.

    Bookmark     May 15, 2006 at 12:57AM
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hawaiitanya

OMG yes Feldon you were very kind to try to educated "squeeziemonkey" (what kind of name is that anyway?) and I'm sorry that there are people like her/him in the world that can be so ungrateful and rude to someone who is only trying to help them. I agree 100% with everything you said (as I have also tired squeezie's suggested method of saving some money and it was a massive failure) and i also agree with what "girlndocs" said. Squeezie if this is just a "stupid plantsite" then why are you even here? For God's sake, please try to control your temper and treat others with the kindness and respect that they have treated you.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2008 at 6:26AM
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jamjam

I just germinated a LOT of heirloom seeds- three different kinds- and they all took longer than three days to germinate. But germinate they did! And even they germinated at different rates- the red heirlooms grew first, the gold was somewhere the middle and the black came up last and is a little more slow. Of course, the taste is worth it. Also, I didn't use the coffee filter, baggie at all- I just planted straight into the soil. I double planted some, thinking that they wouldn't all come up and it was better to be safe. Its been about a week and a half, and EVERY single seed came up. Some are an inch and a half tall and have large leaves. Be patient..

Now if only the same thing could happen with my wild strawberries. I am quite freaked.. the seeds were SO tiny and the germination is supposed to be ten-thirty days. I've always heard that perennials are more tricky! So technically it could be a month before I give up on them, and they might not come up at all. I have 250 seeds and I would LOVE to plant them all, but its such a gamble. And they're so small that I think presprouting them would be hellish, because, the sprouts would be so tiny that they could be seriously damaged transplanting.. oh the stresses of the natural world.. gah.. sorry- just needed to whinge a little..
(i planted them today, so its going to be a long haul)

    Bookmark     March 22, 2008 at 11:02PM
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wyndyacre(z6B SW Ont.)

Blanket flower-as in Gaillardia?

My American Hort Society book says 10 days. But when I sowed a packet of Burgandy gaillardia recently they popped up in about 5 days.
Sow at a minimum temperature of 60*. Four days after sowing, I placed mine on a heat mat of 70-75* and they germinated overnight.

    Bookmark     March 22, 2008 at 9:40PM
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sla762(z5 WI)

I started my Alpine strawberries in seed starting mix in February and they are doing just fine. :)

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 12:53PM
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jamjam

Thanks so much, guys! I figured it might be something like that. Sla, how long did your strawberries take to germinate? The directions on my packet seem awfully long- ten days at the slowest! :) Also, these don't send out runners like local wildies.. are yours the same, or are they native North American?

    Bookmark     March 22, 2008 at 5:02PM
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tuscanseed(7)

This doesn't sound like damp-off, which is a fungal problem where you'd see the seedlings fall over or they would have blackish stems near the soil line, then die.

It may be a cultural problem in some way. Brown tips from your seedlings could be caused by overwatering or underwatering, too much fertilizer/salts, poor humidity, flouride in water, and poor humidity. If they are too near a strong light, the newly fragile leaves could be just getting burned.

Do you have a photo of your setup? The climate for your seedlings has changed because they are no longer in a biodome, and chances are the light has changed, too. What light source are you using? Have you used fertilizer? Side note with zinnia-use a small fan to circulate air near seedlings, not on top of them, to prevent that damp-off, but I think this is something else.

    Bookmark     March 22, 2008 at 10:58AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I agree that it doesn't sound like damp-off since it is the leaves not the stems, correct? Leaf tip-burn is almost always caused by over-fertilization or sun scorch. As tuscanseed said something has changed to cause this. What potting mix did you transplant them into? Direct sun exposure? Too close to lights if using them? Or too much fertilizer?

Dave

    Bookmark     March 22, 2008 at 4:10PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Hi ccaggiano - I don't honestly think you can make broad general conclusion on germination rates between heirlooms and hybrids. Too much depends on the variety and seed quality.

Assuming good, fresh quality of both and equal conditions, I find little difference between germination rates/speeds, hybrids to heirlooms. But I do find a BIG difference from variety to variety of seeds regardless of whether they are hybrid or heirloom.

EX: cherry/grape varieties often germinate faster than do beefsteak types, early varieties will germinate faster than late season varieties, and RL varieties will often germinate faster than PL varieties.

So, given the info you provided I wouldn't give up on any of them yet. Hope this helps. ;)

Dave

    Bookmark     March 22, 2008 at 2:20PM
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moonbyte5

dragonplant - I know with mine I was trying to get some pepper seeds to germinate so I put their peat pots on a heating pad (in a tray) then threw in some others that hadn't germinated yet. It had been over two weeks on them so I had low hopes. Covered them all in cellophane to keep in the heat and keep out my cats. The top of the cellophane had a lot of condensation on it so I think my seed got a little confused on where the water was coming from!

Poor little confused zucchini! The happy part was that even if it was the only thing to germinate out of the bunch it's growing great now. And I'm re-trying the pepper seeds using a different method that will hopefully work. :-)

It certainly is a fun story though - breech birth is a perfect description!! LOL

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 10:49PM
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ohsillyme

The newborn has been returned to its proper position.
Mother and baby are doing just fine.
;)

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 11:55PM
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dicot

I've seperated my Dietes twice and have sometimes had to use a hand hatchet to split difficult clumps. You do need the rhizome and I like to have groups large enough that it will look mature quickly, rather than split into individual rhizomes. I'm not beyond using a chisel and hammer either - it takes a lot of hand strength to get the clumps apart.

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 4:06PM
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conlo

jThanks dicot, that is exactly what i needed to know.

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 9:17PM
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sla762(z5 WI)

mailmann22 - where did you get your trays? I just ordered some for the first time thi syear from Harris Seeds. So far, so good, my tomatoes have come up great. Have you used them in the past?

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 12:56PM
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mailman22(6)

This is the first time I tried using the rows and not the individual cells. The trays I got from Johnny's Seeds.

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 1:17PM
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dirtbert(z4)

If you have a lot of the little guys you could pick a "sacrifical lamb" to put out there first and see how that does. I always do this with my seedlings when first moving them to the greenhouse.

    Bookmark     March 20, 2008 at 11:25PM
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kayhh

Wow. Christmas lights. It never occured to me!! That is a cool idea!

I usually have a pretty good grip on how much cold my plants can take before they suffer a set-back. If the advantage of all that real sun is offset by too much cold at night, I hold off until things warm up a bit. But Thunbergia is a new one for me. But I bet that a string or two of lights would safely keep the temperature in a better range for all the plants.

The "sacrifical lamb" is my usual method, but I will be transplanting them to fit 2-3 per pot and really did not want to risk more than one. With the lights out there, I can at least say I tried to make it better.

I like it! Thanks! This will help a lot!! Kay.

    Bookmark     March 21, 2008 at 8:32AM
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rachel_z6(7)

For smaller cells I use a utility knife for transplanting: I slip the knife down along the cell wall, gently hold the plant, and scoop out with the knife. granted, this only works on small cells and if the rootball is intact. it sounds to me like no matter what method you use, you'll still have some soil loss because the root system isn't extensive enough to hold it all together. this makes transplanting easier (and less messy), but you can still transplant now if you wish: 4 true leaves is the rule of thumb - if you wanted to wait longer and there's still room for the roots to grow, then you certainly could leave them where they are.

As for planting deep - yes for tomatoes and peppers and *some* flowers (the ones that will put out roots if they ste touches dirt), but I generally don't for ornamentals. Too much stem under the soil and you increase the chance of stem rot if no auxiliary roots are going to be produced.

    Bookmark     March 16, 2008 at 1:33PM
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dirtbert(z4)

Depending on the size of the cell a plastic knife or fork works great for me to scoop them out. I think it also helps to have the soil damp to wet so it sticks together when "forking" it out :)

    Bookmark     March 20, 2008 at 11:32PM
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