6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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pikecoe(9)

They have plants, but I don't see seeds.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 10:20PM
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ellenp(z5 OH)

Swallowtail Seeds have seeds for "Water Forget-Me-Nots", if this is what you are looking for. Good service and lots of seed for the money. Hope this helps. ellen

    Bookmark     March 11, 2008 at 12:10AM
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karyn1(7a)

I've never bothered nicking or soaking them prior to planting but I do winter sow them.
Karyn

    Bookmark     March 10, 2008 at 9:04PM
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carol5(5SEMI)

Thank you Dave.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 6:51PM
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leslies(z7 No VA)

Take any seeds you have leftover and scatter them on the snow or soil now. You may be able to get a crop of seedlings sown in place.

Foxglove and poppy seedlings are both a royal PITA to divide (tangled, hairy roots), even when they're small, but they are reasonably forgiving and will recover if not too heavily damaged in the process.

    Bookmark     March 10, 2008 at 1:07PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Soak seed in water for 5 days then store at 40F for 6 weeks....Then lightly cover the seed. soil temp 70F & takes 14-50 days to germinate then 24 weeks to be large enough to set out green..... takes 2-3 years to bloom from seed.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 10:27AM
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tina_2

Hi - I germinated mine in a sealed baggy, in a damp paper towel. It worked! Goodluck and don't give up.
If, I can do it anyone can! tina_2

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 11:35PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Just transplant them Ginny into new, deeper containers and they will do fine. Then get them some supplemental light source (not direct sunlight) - they are leggy due to lack of sufficient light.

When you transplant them plant them so that at least 3/4 of the stem is down in the dirt or deeper if you can - you can plant them so that just the cotyledons - the seed leaves - at at the soil level. You can even coil the leggy stem a bit with care so that it is deeper.

But without sufficient light they will get leggy again. If your weather allows, give them a week to adjust to the new containers and then gradually expose them to the sun.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 9:40PM
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Scott Schluter

Thanks!

    Bookmark     March 3, 2008 at 8:14PM
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Scott Schluter

Thanks to the help in these forums it looks like I'll have a decent garden this year. My seedlings from germination to under the lights. Broccoli, cauliflower and tomatoes.




    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 5:31PM
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elder(6VA)

Thank you both for the info. I have an old block maker which I haven't used for 20 years or more, found it in my garage and thought I'd give it a try - couldn't remember the composition of the slurry. Seems it was nowhere as complicated as the one suggested, but it worked fairly well......Elder

    Bookmark     January 3, 2006 at 11:21PM
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pottingblockguru

Elliot Coleman and Michael Ladbrooke have definetly brought the message of soil blocks to America. However, most information about soil blocks have to be bought, borrowed from a book, or trial by fire. The info on the web was shallow, obscure and hard to follow. And any place you bought soil blockers from were not into helping you get started. To that end, I decided to create the most comprehensive information site on the subject of soil blocks and how to use soil blockers. I have made hundreds of thousands of soil blocks and experimented with ingredients, just for the fun of it.
The potting block guru may not be king, but will advise him soon. See http://www.pottingblocks.com and happy reading.

Here is a link that might be useful: The World's Resource for Soil Block Gardening.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 5:10PM
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kayhh

You can plant these outside as soon as the ground thaws. I would just put them in dry peat moss and store them in the refriderator until then.

Plant the dafs about 4" deep. Keep the iris up near the surface so that the top surface of the root is exposed. That is their growing preference.

You can use a daffodil as a houseplant....once. It needs more sun and nutrients than can usually be supplied indoors. so it will not reflower if kept indoors after that first flowering.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 12:35PM
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karyn1(7a)

I'd try replacing the ballast. They just screw in. If that doesn't end up being the problem you'll only be out about $1.
Karyn

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 11:56AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Very old fixtures used a plug in starter which often went bad and overheated the lamp filaments causing the black spot in the area of the filament. I don't think these fixtures have been made in the last 40 years. The new cheap fixtures you would buy as 'shop lights' are rapid start ballast types. The cost of the ballast would probably exceed the fixture cost, plus the nuisance of installing it. Al

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 11:08AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The cabbage should be able to go out to the garden most anytime now in your zone - if you can get it hardened off. The whitish brown leaves were due to wind and sun exposure, not temps. Try to find them a place that is blocked from wind and in the shade to harden off.

You can transplant them to larger cell packs but then you'll have to give them some time to adjust before hardening off.

The impatiens and coleus definitely need to go under the lights. Once anything has germinated it needs the lights.

Good luck.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 10:41AM
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mamabear2(z4/5Bk HillsSD)

Woops. After I posted I see another thread on the same subject a few threads down. Sorry, I didn't catch that one.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2008 at 9:56AM
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Campanula UK Z8

true, mine hang around till about april - when i have messed about upping the temperature, they have gone a bit leggy so, just have faith- yhey have germinated and done the hard bit, now you just have to sit tight and observe.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 5:24PM
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west9491(6)

what would the best all around foliar spray be: by name brand cuz i was thinkn of ordern some. thanks.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 7:18PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Iris hollandica

Impervious seed coats. Shake in dry sharp sand, nick with file, rub on a bit of sandpaper (or between two sheets), anything to weaken the seed coat and allow moisture to begin to penetrate.

Warm, cold, cool germinator - 3 steps. Sow 70ºF for 2-4 weeks, move to 40ºF for 4-6 weeks, move to 50-ishºF for germination

While I haven't sown the Dutch, I find most iris to be erratic, meaning not all seedlings will appear at the same time. Or even close, I've had pots of iris seed where germination continued over an entire year after the first seedlings popped up :) Hopefully yours won't require as much patience

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 4:47PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Hi weenerdog - The big collection of FAQ's here (I linked them below for you) will cover all the basics including soil recommendations.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQ's

    Bookmark     March 7, 2008 at 10:03PM
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deederbug8

always start with the seed starting mix until leaves are developed - then I transfer to a 50/50 mix of seed starting mix and potting soil followed by a transplant root stimulator........then Watch out! I have a JUNGLE!

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 3:51PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Lightly cover the seed soil temp 70F & takes 4-8 days to germinate. & 10 weeks to be large enough to set out green.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 9:16AM
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deederbug8

I've never had a problem with starting these.
Start in a jiffy pot and transfer to a 1 gallon pot with a support after seedling has 2 true leaves.
They will be easier to transplant when the time comes - plant the support too unless you can unravel it gently onto it's new support.....but I recommend planting with it.
Make sure it has the same lighting as you would use for the seedlings until ready to go outside (harden off first)

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 3:37PM
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