6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Thank you both for the info. I have an old block maker which I haven't used for 20 years or more, found it in my garage and thought I'd give it a try - couldn't remember the composition of the slurry. Seems it was nowhere as complicated as the one suggested, but it worked fairly well......Elder
Elliot Coleman and Michael Ladbrooke have definetly brought the message of soil blocks to America. However, most information about soil blocks have to be bought, borrowed from a book, or trial by fire. The info on the web was shallow, obscure and hard to follow. And any place you bought soil blockers from were not into helping you get started. To that end, I decided to create the most comprehensive information site on the subject of soil blocks and how to use soil blockers. I have made hundreds of thousands of soil blocks and experimented with ingredients, just for the fun of it.
The potting block guru may not be king, but will advise him soon. See http://www.pottingblocks.com and happy reading.
Here is a link that might be useful: The World's Resource for Soil Block Gardening.
You can plant these outside as soon as the ground thaws. I would just put them in dry peat moss and store them in the refriderator until then.
Plant the dafs about 4" deep. Keep the iris up near the surface so that the top surface of the root is exposed. That is their growing preference.
You can use a daffodil as a houseplant....once. It needs more sun and nutrients than can usually be supplied indoors. so it will not reflower if kept indoors after that first flowering.
Very old fixtures used a plug in starter which often went bad and overheated the lamp filaments causing the black spot in the area of the filament. I don't think these fixtures have been made in the last 40 years. The new cheap fixtures you would buy as 'shop lights' are rapid start ballast types. The cost of the ballast would probably exceed the fixture cost, plus the nuisance of installing it. Al
The cabbage should be able to go out to the garden most anytime now in your zone - if you can get it hardened off. The whitish brown leaves were due to wind and sun exposure, not temps. Try to find them a place that is blocked from wind and in the shade to harden off.
You can transplant them to larger cell packs but then you'll have to give them some time to adjust before hardening off.
The impatiens and coleus definitely need to go under the lights. Once anything has germinated it needs the lights.
Good luck.
Dave
Iris hollandica
Impervious seed coats. Shake in dry sharp sand, nick with file, rub on a bit of sandpaper (or between two sheets), anything to weaken the seed coat and allow moisture to begin to penetrate.
Warm, cold, cool germinator - 3 steps. Sow 70ºF for 2-4 weeks, move to 40ºF for 4-6 weeks, move to 50-ishºF for germination
While I haven't sown the Dutch, I find most iris to be erratic, meaning not all seedlings will appear at the same time. Or even close, I've had pots of iris seed where germination continued over an entire year after the first seedlings popped up :) Hopefully yours won't require as much patience
Hi weenerdog - The big collection of FAQ's here (I linked them below for you) will cover all the basics including soil recommendations.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQ's
I've never had a problem with starting these.
Start in a jiffy pot and transfer to a 1 gallon pot with a support after seedling has 2 true leaves.
They will be easier to transplant when the time comes - plant the support too unless you can unravel it gently onto it's new support.....but I recommend planting with it.
Make sure it has the same lighting as you would use for the seedlings until ready to go outside (harden off first)
I haven't used Messenger but have heard good things about it. I do use Superthrive but not for starting seeds. I use ST for transplants, cuttings and stressed plants and have found it to be a very good product. I also use B-1 for transplants and cuttings.
Karyn
Dave, there is now a Messenger product directed at starting seeds. Said to 'increase uniformity in germination', but I haven't seen it, haven't used it myself.
Apparently dusted onto the seeds dry before sowing -
Here is a link that might be useful: Messenger for seeds
Here is a link to some previous discussions on the company. Hope they are of help to you.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Whatcom Seed Company
common solutions to problems... 1. is the block kept wet not damp. 2. poor light will result in yellow leaves. 3. salt buildup will also result in yellow leaves.
4. the plant can NOT take up organic mineral combinations. IT MUST be broken down (usually by bacteriaa) to basic compounds & then taken up so.... it could be corrected by using some soluable fertilizer....
Crataegus phaenopyrum , Washington hawthorn - warm/cold/warm germinator: scarify, sow 4 months moist @ 70ºF, 5 months moist @ 39ºF, move to 70ºF for germination.
Acer platanoides , Norway maple , sow fresh seed @ 39ºF for germ. in 3 months.
Aspin, your Crimson King is a Norway - you might want to research a little before planting. Vigorous surface root system and dense crown (shade) makes underplanting these almost impossible
Thanks!
Thanks to the help in these forums it looks like I'll have a decent garden this year. My seedlings from germination to under the lights. Broccoli, cauliflower and tomatoes.
