6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed


Iris hollandica
Impervious seed coats. Shake in dry sharp sand, nick with file, rub on a bit of sandpaper (or between two sheets), anything to weaken the seed coat and allow moisture to begin to penetrate.
Warm, cold, cool germinator - 3 steps. Sow 70ºF for 2-4 weeks, move to 40ºF for 4-6 weeks, move to 50-ishºF for germination
While I haven't sown the Dutch, I find most iris to be erratic, meaning not all seedlings will appear at the same time. Or even close, I've had pots of iris seed where germination continued over an entire year after the first seedlings popped up :) Hopefully yours won't require as much patience

Hi weenerdog - The big collection of FAQ's here (I linked them below for you) will cover all the basics including soil recommendations.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQ's


I've never had a problem with starting these.
Start in a jiffy pot and transfer to a 1 gallon pot with a support after seedling has 2 true leaves.
They will be easier to transplant when the time comes - plant the support too unless you can unravel it gently onto it's new support.....but I recommend planting with it.
Make sure it has the same lighting as you would use for the seedlings until ready to go outside (harden off first)

I haven't used Messenger but have heard good things about it. I do use Superthrive but not for starting seeds. I use ST for transplants, cuttings and stressed plants and have found it to be a very good product. I also use B-1 for transplants and cuttings.
Karyn

Dave, there is now a Messenger product directed at starting seeds. Said to 'increase uniformity in germination', but I haven't seen it, haven't used it myself.
Apparently dusted onto the seeds dry before sowing -
Here is a link that might be useful: Messenger for seeds

Here is a link to some previous discussions on the company. Hope they are of help to you.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Whatcom Seed Company

common solutions to problems... 1. is the block kept wet not damp. 2. poor light will result in yellow leaves. 3. salt buildup will also result in yellow leaves.
4. the plant can NOT take up organic mineral combinations. IT MUST be broken down (usually by bacteriaa) to basic compounds & then taken up so.... it could be corrected by using some soluable fertilizer....

Crataegus phaenopyrum , Washington hawthorn - warm/cold/warm germinator: scarify, sow 4 months moist @ 70ºF, 5 months moist @ 39ºF, move to 70ºF for germination.
Acer platanoides , Norway maple , sow fresh seed @ 39ºF for germ. in 3 months.
Aspin, your Crimson King is a Norway - you might want to research a little before planting. Vigorous surface root system and dense crown (shade) makes underplanting these almost impossible


I am going the winter sowing route.
Hi kanuk - First, calm your nerves. ;) Keep in mind that winter sowing, as we discussed above with the original poster once it became clear that was what she was asking about, is a totally different (and relatively new compared to this forum) approach to growing from seed, ok?
Winter sowers have their own recommendations for soils mixes to use and since it is done outside rather than in an artificially created indoor environment such as we traditional seed sowers use, they don't use many of our same techniques (sterile soil-less mixes, staged transplanting, light set-up, amended soils for transplanting, etc.) and we don't use many of theirs.
Both approaches have their advantages and their disadvantages, but they are two very different approaches to growing things from seed. So when it comes to problems or questions it's important to "dance with the guy that brung ya". ;)
Not being all that experienced with winter sowing myself, all I can tell you is that based on my reading over on that forum and all the different soil mixes they use, you have no problems with yours. But I don't want to accidently mislead you either, so you need to discuss your concerns with the experienced winter sowers rather than let much of what we discuss here confuse you. OK?
If you can't get your question answered or are still confused, feel free to drop me a note via email on MY Page here at GW. Good luck with your seeds and most of all, enjoy the process.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Sowing Forum

Dave ~ Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to my concerns. I think you've saved my seeds from being ripped out of their containers and replanted!! Kidding!!
I will go over the info over @ WS forum. I probably skimmed through it too fast and missed a lot of important stuff.
Nonetheless your offer is accepted with gratitude should the need arise.
When the time comes for me to learn how to sow seeds the traditional way I can only hope you'll be here to lead me in the right direction. I respect your knowledge.
Happy gardening!
Bruce

suggestion: Try emailing Emily at the Yahoo Group site for explicit instructions on germination techniques. Personally, I like to winter sow mine, but I know she's in Z6, too.
GW won't let me link it (in any form...schmucks...anyway, make this all one line, and it'll get you there.
http://
tech.
groups.
yahoo.
com/group/Yvonnes-salvia/

Here is a little inspiration with Yvonne's Salvia...seeds were started 2/29/08 in pre-moistened Promix BX, surface sown, pressed down into soil but not covered, spray misted with water, clear baggie placed over top of cell pack, placed under cheap shoplights before germination...

The best way to get onions is probably to buy plants. Less than $10 for 3 bunches of 60 to 75. That said I started mine about 2/4 hoping they will be big enough. I just spread them in cut off milk jugs and usually they are fine until transplant. Keep cutting the tops to about 3-4", which will make the stems thicker. I use 1 pkg per milk jug and usually have more than I need at transplant time.
JMO,
Tom


Woops. After I posted I see another thread on the same subject a few threads down. Sorry, I didn't catch that one.