6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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karyn1(7a)

I haven't used Messenger but have heard good things about it. I do use Superthrive but not for starting seeds. I use ST for transplants, cuttings and stressed plants and have found it to be a very good product. I also use B-1 for transplants and cuttings.
Karyn

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 12:12PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Dave, there is now a Messenger product directed at starting seeds. Said to 'increase uniformity in germination', but I haven't seen it, haven't used it myself.

Apparently dusted onto the seeds dry before sowing -

Here is a link that might be useful: Messenger for seeds

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 1:46PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Here is a link to some previous discussions on the company. Hope they are of help to you.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Whatcom Seed Company

    Bookmark     March 7, 2008 at 12:39PM
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karyn1(7a)

If I can't find the seed anywhere else I'll buy from them. I've had very mixed results. About half the seeds I receive are viable. Their rating on Garden Watchdog isn't great.
Karyn

Here is a link that might be useful: GWD

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 12:05PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

common solutions to problems... 1. is the block kept wet not damp. 2. poor light will result in yellow leaves. 3. salt buildup will also result in yellow leaves.
4. the plant can NOT take up organic mineral combinations. IT MUST be broken down (usually by bacteriaa) to basic compounds & then taken up so.... it could be corrected by using some soluable fertilizer....

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 9:02AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

IF SOIL temperature is 75-80F (day) will take 60-90 days to germinate.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2008 at 8:49AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Crataegus phaenopyrum , Washington hawthorn - warm/cold/warm germinator: scarify, sow 4 months moist @ 70ºF, 5 months moist @ 39ºF, move to 70ºF for germination.

Acer platanoides , Norway maple , sow fresh seed @ 39ºF for germ. in 3 months.

Aspin, your Crimson King is a Norway - you might want to research a little before planting. Vigorous surface root system and dense crown (shade) makes underplanting these almost impossible

    Bookmark     March 7, 2008 at 5:48PM
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wmc1

Just throw them on the ground where you want them now and you should get some results later in the year, or go to winter sowing forum for some more ideas.

    Bookmark     March 7, 2008 at 12:02PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

You don't mention what zone you are in, but another method for rose of sharon -

Easy germination. May start indoors 4-6 weeks prior to last frost. Sow, covering seeds 1/4". 68-70ºF. Seed should begin germinating in 10-20 days

    Bookmark     March 7, 2008 at 12:31PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I am going the winter sowing route.

Hi kanuk - First, calm your nerves. ;) Keep in mind that winter sowing, as we discussed above with the original poster once it became clear that was what she was asking about, is a totally different (and relatively new compared to this forum) approach to growing from seed, ok?

Winter sowers have their own recommendations for soils mixes to use and since it is done outside rather than in an artificially created indoor environment such as we traditional seed sowers use, they don't use many of our same techniques (sterile soil-less mixes, staged transplanting, light set-up, amended soils for transplanting, etc.) and we don't use many of theirs.

Both approaches have their advantages and their disadvantages, but they are two very different approaches to growing things from seed. So when it comes to problems or questions it's important to "dance with the guy that brung ya". ;)

Not being all that experienced with winter sowing myself, all I can tell you is that based on my reading over on that forum and all the different soil mixes they use, you have no problems with yours. But I don't want to accidently mislead you either, so you need to discuss your concerns with the experienced winter sowers rather than let much of what we discuss here confuse you. OK?

If you can't get your question answered or are still confused, feel free to drop me a note via email on MY Page here at GW. Good luck with your seeds and most of all, enjoy the process.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Sowing Forum

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 9:05PM
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kanuk(Zone 5 Qc Canada)

Dave ~ Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to my concerns. I think you've saved my seeds from being ripped out of their containers and replanted!! Kidding!!
I will go over the info over @ WS forum. I probably skimmed through it too fast and missed a lot of important stuff.
Nonetheless your offer is accepted with gratitude should the need arise.
When the time comes for me to learn how to sow seeds the traditional way I can only hope you'll be here to lead me in the right direction. I respect your knowledge.
Happy gardening!
Bruce

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 9:30PM
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mmqchdygg(Z5NH)

suggestion: Try emailing Emily at the Yahoo Group site for explicit instructions on germination techniques. Personally, I like to winter sow mine, but I know she's in Z6, too.
GW won't let me link it (in any form...schmucks...anyway, make this all one line, and it'll get you there.

http://
tech.
groups.
yahoo.
com/group/Yvonnes-salvia/

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 10:39AM
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patrizia007

Here is a little inspiration with Yvonne's Salvia...seeds were started 2/29/08 in pre-moistened Promix BX, surface sown, pressed down into soil but not covered, spray misted with water, clear baggie placed over top of cell pack, placed under cheap shoplights before germination...

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 3:19PM
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tomakers(SE MA Zone 5/6 or ?)

The best way to get onions is probably to buy plants. Less than $10 for 3 bunches of 60 to 75. That said I started mine about 2/4 hoping they will be big enough. I just spread them in cut off milk jugs and usually they are fine until transplant. Keep cutting the tops to about 3-4", which will make the stems thicker. I use 1 pkg per milk jug and usually have more than I need at transplant time.
JMO,
Tom

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 1:08AM
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dab07

I have bought onion plants in the past, but want to try seeds. last year I did so unsuccessfully, and resorted to plants when the seedlings didn't work out. I hope to do better this year!

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 11:49AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

thanks for info

    Bookmark     November 4, 2006 at 3:39PM
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mmqchdygg(Z5NH)

bump...that must be a perpetual sale.

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 10:41AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Sedum spectabile. Surface sow on a well draining seed sowing mix 40-50F . spectabile seeds will usually germinate in 15-30 days, even under good conditions germination may be erratic - meaning not all seedlings will appear at the same time.

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 1:45AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

My Sedom spectabile reseeds itself regularly and I dig up and transplant the seedlings. Al

    Bookmark     March 6, 2008 at 9:48AM
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shastadaisy

I buy my seeds from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds and they have a seed planting guide on their website.

Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Gardening Guide

    Bookmark     March 4, 2008 at 5:07PM
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belleville_rose_gr

I don't pay attention to the start date. I have some plants I started in January and have repotted them and are doing fine. Some are under artificial lights others are getting natural light.

    Bookmark     March 5, 2008 at 7:11AM
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seedsavr

thanks for your responses...

to answer glacier: i just transplanted them 2 days ago into 16 oz. plastic cups w/ drainige holes. I had the problem before i transplanted them though... now they seem even worse. And yes the are getting yellowy.

to answer dave: I transplanted half of them into miracle grow soil and the other haldf into miracle grow seedstarting soil. Other than that, noting. should i?

Thank you for your help

    Bookmark     February 29, 2008 at 4:47PM
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kayhh

The combo of sagging and yellow gives me the impression that they are overwatered and underfertilized. The top 1/4- 1/2 inch of the planting medium should be allowed to dry between watering. (the bigger the pot, the more you can allow to dry out) And the pots should not sit in water.

They should be fertilized regularly. I use the blue stuff at about 1/10 stregth at all waterings. Well, most, anyway......Kay.

    Bookmark     March 4, 2008 at 7:31PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

but isn't what you first see come up a leaf? or does it have to grow much longer for the first set of leaves to appear?

The first things to appear that "look like" leaves are actually the cotyledons, or often called "seed leaves". But they aren't really plant leaves, They are parts of the seed itself. The true first leaves will appear from the notch between these "seed leaves".

You can transplant at this stage and it is often required when planted this close together. Many of us do it routinely because of the way we germinate our seeds in bulk germination trays. It just takes more care to not damage either the stem or the cotyledons as they cannot be replaced by the plant while the true leaves can be. It's for this reason that it is usually recommended that you wait to transplant until the true leaves appear.

Just lift out a spoonful of the soil with a bunch of seedlings, gently separate them, and then transplant them to already prepared cells or containers. Transplant them deeply, to just below the cotyledons and put them somewhere out of the direct sun for a day or so until they have time to settle in to their new home.

Good luck with your plants.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 4, 2008 at 12:13PM
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rjinga

Dave,
In case you have not heard this frequently enough...you are an invaluable resource of information on this site and I for one truly do appreciate your input. thanks for always being willing to share your knowledge and experience :)

    Bookmark     March 4, 2008 at 12:45PM
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