6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Thanks!!!!

    Bookmark     February 25, 2008 at 8:06PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

My best guess from the info provided would be over-watering. This is a highly drought-tolerant plant which quickly develops root rot as well as leaf rot if the soil is not well draining or if it gets too much water. Treat it like a succulent - sandy soil (peat moss, vermiculite and compost all retain water) and minimal water.

Hope this helps.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 25, 2008 at 7:07PM
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woodyguthriefan(6a)

With tomato plants I agree: one per container. My question though, do you cut and kill off some or attempt transplanting and risk all? Isn't there something to a bird in the hand...?

    Bookmark     February 23, 2008 at 10:08PM
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phoam

Thanks for the responses. I have already removed all but one tomato plant in one of the containers. The other tomato plant (& cucumbers) still have multiple plants in one container.

Fwiw, I may take a picture this evening to show how they're performing.

I have 11 trays (370 cells) of various vegetable seeds I just started - under fluorescent bulbs right now & will be transplanted outdoors in late April. The plants originally in question are an attempt to produce a crop indoors (these will remain under artificial lighting - will be switched to a HPS 12/12 setting in two weeks or so).

    Bookmark     February 25, 2008 at 9:58AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

pinching helps but delays set out dat & flowering date by several weeks. The leggy plants are often the result of poor lighting. Both in strength and duration. grow lights will help also move to window with best light.

    Bookmark     February 24, 2008 at 12:26PM
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Martina DeLuca

Thanks. Guess I forgot that part in my post...sorry. I actually started the Green Envy's in the ground as from what I've read they don't take transplanting very well. I found that out last year as well. I started quite a few, so I think I will try pinching some and leaving others alone. Trial and error.

    Bookmark     February 25, 2008 at 4:36AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Have not & will not use.... the grass etc will add organic material to the planting of the flower etc. But will need extra nitrogen to break down the grass/roots AND there MAY be insects or disease that MAY be carried over to the new planting area

    Bookmark     February 24, 2008 at 12:32PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I've read about it but honestly can't see the logic to it. Not only for the reasons already mentioned, but because sod isn't nearly as cheap nor as readily available as is plain old seed starting mix and plastic butter containers or yogurt cups. ;)

It would be interesting to see a comparative study however. Why not try both side-by-side and see how it works?

Dave

    Bookmark     February 24, 2008 at 2:51PM
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cynister(Z5B/6A NH)

So I may not have a choice but to buy lamps?

    Bookmark     February 24, 2008 at 1:22PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

IF you want to grow from seed indoors, then yes, some sort of lights, are required. 16 hours on and 8 off or 12/12 are the standard recommendations. Those who claim they can do it just using a window are misleading themselves or are content with far less than ideal transplants.

Most of us use inexpensive 'shop lights' - 4 foot florescents with 2 bulbs. They can be purchased at various stores for anything from 8-10 dollars or on sale for even less.

You'll also need some sort of sterile soil-less mix for germinating and to prevent the damp-off and a small fan is also a great help. As to starting containers, you can use just about anything and there is a long thread just a bit down the page full of suggestions for containers to use. Once the seeds germinate and develop their first set of true leaves they have to be separated, transplanted to individual containers, and fed regularly with a mild 1/2 strength fertilizer solution.

As an alternative, investigate the Winter Sowing forum for an alternative method of growing from seed and doing it outside. You may find their approach appeals to you more.

As to when to start - the usual recommendation is 6-8 weeks prior to your last frost date - info readily available from your local county extension or online. As already mentioned, gourds are usually direct seeded but in your short growing season you may wish to start them early and transplant instead. Broccoli is a cole crop and prefers cooler weather and can even tolerate frosts so it goes out much earlier than any of the others you list.

Check out all the FAQ's that exist (linked below) here for all the basic info and good luck with your garden. ;)

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQ's

    Bookmark     February 24, 2008 at 2:47PM
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mersiepoo(6)

I would plant it at the soil level it was grown, and just make sure it's watered enough. I hope it's a nice flower! :)

    Bookmark     February 23, 2008 at 5:20PM
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naturemitch(3/4 WI)

Hi Sunny,

Just a thought....

I have a seed starting mix that I use for germinating and then transplant the seedlings out to either recycled soil from last years containers or a different type of mix(maybe in your case a topsoil mix). I don't need huge quantities of seed starting mix because I use 4" pots for all of my germinaion containers. This saves me tremendous money and space for germinating seedlings....and I germinate many, many seeds.

Maybe this might be your solution?

good luck
m

    Bookmark     February 22, 2008 at 9:56PM
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sunny43(Z 6 Pa.)

Hi M. I just purchased 2 yards of potting soil so I have plenty of soil to use to pot my seedlings up in. It is so much cheaper buying potting soil by the yard. I use flats and put 2 or 3 seeds to each cell. When they are older and sturdy I then separate the plants and put them in larger pots.

Dave, I am just outside of Houston so bulk supplies in peat isn't a problem. Although I can only find small bags of perlite which is a problem. If I mixed one part peat to one part perlite then we are getting back to the expense again. I think it might be just a little cheaper then the premixed bagged seed starting mix. Today I just bought some more mix but went to Jiffy this time. It was around $3.15 per bag at Wally World.

Gardeners in the upper states have it made being able to buy Pro Mix by the bale.

We live on 2 acres so we are trying to raise from seed a lot of our annuals that we use for color and fillers. We are growing a lot of veggies for the garden to.

Even though the seedling mix is high we are still saving a lot of money by growing our own. Plus we know that our plants are healthy.

Thanks for all of your help.

    Bookmark     February 23, 2008 at 12:23AM
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countryboy_2007(7)

Two places to find Gunnera seed is Twining Vine Garden Store & Whatcom seed company, This plant can survive with heavy mulching in your zone. I live in Z7 and it does overwinter here in NC>

    Bookmark     February 22, 2008 at 10:42AM
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pearlgirl

That is good to know..perhaps I can get it to overwinter
her in Chatham Va. I want this plant so badly. Tried it
twice and lost...I had it much too dry. Thompson&Morgan
also has the seeds. The plant may be in the Wayside
catalog.

    Bookmark     February 22, 2008 at 10:49AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

It sounds like "damping off" a fungal infection. reducing watering & a fan will help. Also a fungalcidal drinch will help. Yes the mixture is partially at falt since both ingrediants retain moisture. Try 1:1 PERLITE & peatmoss

    Bookmark     February 21, 2008 at 3:16PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

This FAQ should help.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Damp-off FAQ

    Bookmark     February 21, 2008 at 5:10PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Lightly cover the seed soil temp 70-78F & takes 15 days to germinate.... growing on temperature 60-68F takes 13-14 weeks to produce a 4" size plant.
use a fungicidal drinch every 30 days.

    Bookmark     February 21, 2008 at 9:16AM
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kms4me

Thanks George.

Kate

    Bookmark     February 21, 2008 at 12:58PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

The SOIL (not air) temperature needes to be 70F for germination. SO.... will get quicker results if start inside. BUT if willing to wait go ahead & plant outside

    Bookmark     February 21, 2008 at 9:20AM
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karyn1(7a)

I soak the seeds overnight and plant them about 1" deep. I put the whole thing in a large baggie which I open for a while every day or so to allow for air circulation. I keep the planting medium moist but not soggy. I also use bottom heat. They germinate in about 2 weeks.
Karyn

    Bookmark     February 20, 2008 at 4:44PM
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kitchenwitch38

Thank you so much for the help. Starting on them tonight.
Blessings
Kim

    Bookmark     February 20, 2008 at 5:24PM
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kayhh

Calendula flowers quickly up here in north-east michigan. And re-seeds readily. It comes in bright yellows, golds, oranges. I think I saw it in a burgandy as well, I may be mistaken.

Zinnia comes in a variety of sizes and does best when direct sown where it will grow. The profusion series is very popular and smallish in size compared to many varieties.

They have corms rather than seeds, but glads are a must have for cutting in my gardens. And you can space planting so that you have a constant supply of fresh blooms.

There are tons of flowers that are great for direct sowing in zones 4/5/6, but putting them in small pots is a tough limitation. ....Kay.

    Bookmark     February 18, 2008 at 7:58PM
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luvsgrtdanes

This is what I've done and had great success with:
Asters
Marigold
Cosmos do well in 10'' pots
Allysum smell wonderful on a patio
Snapdragons
Portulaca
verbena
Sweet peas do great direct sown
Morning glories do well with something to climb on 10'' pot

    Bookmark     February 20, 2008 at 12:46PM
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nordfyr315(5)

How moist is moist? Is placing them in the cold moist air of the garage enough or should they actually be wet as they would be if wrapped in a wet paper towel?

    Bookmark     February 19, 2008 at 11:56PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Moist is more moist than cold moist air, think along terms of approximately how damp a handful of wet sphagnum moss would be after you had squeezed it well in your hand, or even a kitchen sponge. I don't use the paper towel method myself so can't advise you there. What I have done - sown in moist (not soggy wet) seed starting medium or commercial potting soil, container then wrapped in saran, or seeds placed in a 1x3" zip lock with a tsp of moist sterile sand or moist vermiculite.

    Bookmark     February 20, 2008 at 2:58AM
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