6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I swear by Fox Farm Ocean Forest as I stated in one of vegangirl's forums about seed starting mix. Just try it you'll see what I mean. My sister, who also gardens, asked me, "how much better could it be than pro-mix?" I gave her about 1/2 of a bag and she used it. Now she knows. Last few years there's been a couple times I've been short on money and go with something less expensive and on each of those occasions the plants do fine but just not as great. Plus it is 100% organic if that interests you.
Get the seedlings outside asap when they sprout, that will keep you having quality plants.
Peppers and tomatoes can take 50-55 at night. If the sun shines at all, they'll be warmer during the day. I bet if you think creatively, though, whatever heat source you're using, your greenhouse will have a few warmer spots at night. I try to put mine there.
ie, closer to the electic heater, in a direct line with the propane one, etc.
Main thing with peppers is water stress, don't let them get too dry or too wet it will stunt your seedlings. Did that the first year! watch for aphids and spider mites. Aphids will choose the peppers over the tomatoes, and they'll choose cabbage/lettuce over either one from my experience.
Thank you, Sandy! I appreciate the help, and the extra advice too. I'll be using electric heat in the GH, so I will put them closer to where the heater is as you suggest, and watch the watering carefully. I'm really looking forward to getting these things started early...last year everything came on so late, and I'd love to have vegetables just a bit earlier this year if possible.
I didn't have any problems with aphids on the peppers last year, but that was outside. I'll watch carefully for that in the GH, and hopefully they'll just leave my veggies alone (for the Roses, I suspect). It's not really worth trying to grow lettuce/cabbage here - slugs and bugs just decimate it from the start.
Thanks again! :-)
Thanks calistoga for the advice, I will leave them in there cells a little longer, but remove them from the bottom heat. It shouldn't be to hard to cut there cells away from the rest of the seed flat. I will just have to be careful not to jar the adjacent cells to hard. As for damping off, I am using an all natural product called Damp Aid. I mixed it into the growing medium before I sowed in the seed, and I also use it as a top dressing after watering. It has a wonderful sent to it, and so far seems to be working well. I also have good air circulation around the flat, the only draw back is that my soil drys out much faster so I really have to keep an eye on them. Thanks again for your advice, it is greatly appreciated!
My husband just bought me a small walk in green house. Wondering if anyone knows when I can safely start my warm season veggie seeds in it. I do not / & won't - have heat in it- it is 6' long, 4' wide, 6' tall. Plastic sheeting over powder coated metal frame. Never did this before! What can I start in it now, zone 7, the Piedmont area? Dying to get started! Any help will be appreciated!
Oops stuck the link on the wrong post. Apologies. Check out the answers there.
Here is a link that might be useful: Your other post
Like New Guinea impatiens they are usually grown from cuttings as far as I know. But since they are in the same balsamina family my guess would be you'd use the same germination guidelines.
I linked the TM instructions for balsamina germination below. It's a different variety but the instructions are the same. I hope it helps. Good luck.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: TM Balsamina germination tips
Here a link to your other post with answers posted. ;)
Here is a link that might be useful: Your other post
i'm thanking you so much!! i grow them to a point and then usually they die. i'm hoping this year they actually live. i have winter sown some of my seeds.and grown some in the house regularly. in cups in a pan, i just transplanted them into a barrel that is maybe 2 1/2 ft deep. so hopefully they will take off til spring.
I would still check at home building centers, such at Lowe's in your area. They likely have seed starting mix available. It will be much less hassle than trying to mix your own. The Peat Moss is also much coarser than the ready seed starting mix and contains larger matter that's hard to deal with when you use seed starting pots that are so small. Walmart and Meijers as grocery chains also carry seed starting mix. Meijers has weekly sales on and off for the mix at a better price than the regular $3.99 per bag. I believe the Meijers mix is made by a company called Hoffman and is very good.
I'm growing Calif. native salvias. Last summer I did a lot of online research on growing media (having known nothing previously), and I decided to mix my own peat-lite type of growing medium. Alas, I couldn't find things like dolomite lime locally, at least not in suitable quantities (HD had a tiny bag). I settled for EB Stone "Seed Starter Mix," which is a peat-lite type of mix, though it doesn't state the proportions of each component. This has worked well for seeds. I might have used Jiffy Mix if I'd found it earlier. For the potted seedlings I'm using Sunshine Mix #1, which is a peat-lite mix with a bit of fertilizer thrown in. It comes in 3.3 cu ft bales. I had at one point intended to use the seed-starter mix with a bit of compost or fertilizer for the potted seedlings, but it would have cost a fortune compared to the big bag of Sunshine Mix. So far, I'm happy with the results of both media that I'm using.
I agree with calistoga - the covers are for germinating purposes only, not for growing on. This is assuming you are growing them inside rather than outside. If outside, then yes, the Wintersowing Forum can explain what all to do next. It has an excellent FAQ section on all the basics.
And you might wish to check out all the FAQ's posted here as well - linked below and at the top of the forum's front page - they cover all the basics of Growing from Seed - including your questions. ;)
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQ's
Not needed. While heat is required for germination, once sprouted the majority of seedlings prefer cooler growing conditions.
Your lights will produce some heat from the ballasts and if you wish to contain it to insure night temps are acceptable you can enclose the shelf area in clear plastic or do what I do - use the cheap aluminum "survival blankets" they sell in the camping section of Walmart etc. They unfold to make a tough aluminum sheet about 4x6' and cost about $2.00 each. They not only contain the humidity and the heat from the lights but also reflect it 10 fold to increase the light available to the plants.
Enjoy your seedlings. ;)
Dave
Another suggestion, if you are concerned with night temps getting too cold, is to run your lights at night and have you lights off during the day. This will keep your night temps warmer due to the heat from the lights. Your garage has to be light proof otherwise the plant's dark period will be disturbed by sunlight. Good luck
Well, I think it all depends on your situation. The needs of a commercial operation are quite different from someone who is just growing a few plants for a home garden.
For me, it's just simpler to plant in a larger pot and avoid transplanting. I use plastic drink cups which don't take up a lot of room and I plant into a potting mix that has a modest amount of fertilizer in it. Well, except for tomatoes...those I do pot up since there does seem to be a benefit from burying their stem a bit.
I use roughly the same amount of seed that I would in a flat, since you always need to plant extra in either case. And I know it's not "sterile" but I haven't had problems yet. The plants grow fast and strong and it's much simpler. Again, in a commercial operation, doing this would be much riskier.
I'd be interested in any studies that show better results as far as root development and such.
Thanks for your response. FWIW -- to check the viability,I chipped or scarified a few seeds 10 days or so ago. I rolled them in a slightly wet piece of paper towel, and put the roll in an old pill container, closed it up and set it on the top of my computer monitor where it remained slightly warm. I checked them daily and two days ago, I noticed that a root was emerging from one of the seeds so I took it out and planted it. We shall seewhat happens next. I still don't know how fast they grow into 4" pot size or if they transplant well from that size.
Hydrangea seeds look a little like dust (tiny) - some find it easier to sow the dried parts of the flower head rather than try to extract/identify the seed and it sounds like the flower head is what you've been sent.
According to Dirr most hydrangea is easy from seed with germination within two weeks. Al