6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

I don't think the fluxuating temperatures are that big a deal. Problems can arise when you have a period of warmth and a plant seed germinates that doesn't like honest to goodness freezing temperatures. In my experience nasturtiums fall under this category. Last year mine germinated during some warm days in late February but then one night of just below 32 degrees in March killed them.

But there are plenty of seedlings that can come out during a warm spell and handle their jugs being frozen solid. I have lettuce in some jugs that I planted back in December that germinated quickly. The seedlings have thrived despite nights down in the teens and their jugs being frozen into solid bricks of soil.

High 30's shouldn't kill anything. It's 32 degrees and below or desiccating winds on opened jugs (the entire top has been removed, not the little lid that comes with the jug)that can kill seedlings.

Parsley, sweet pea and stock all benifit from planting while temperatures are still cold. In fact, here in Michigan, I toss down parsley seed in the fall for best results.

Delphinium will do better if started in a dark place - no light at all. I start them in a little-used drawer or cabinet.

The rest should not be damaged by cool weather, they will not germinate until the soil is a certain average temp. It just depends on if you are picky about where they sprout and how many sprout. Starting indoors is more dependable and gives you greater control, but with your long season, starting them outside seems to be a lot easier to me. Or is the hot summer hot enough to kill things off, hence giving you a shorter season that way?

Cristi, good advice above. As for fertilizer, I'll just add that I dilute to 25% for the first weeks and always use a water soluble type, not granular. In fact, I dilute from the label instructions for full sized mature container plants and rarely apply a fertilizer product to much more than half strength. Remember, the fertilizer company is in business to sell fertilizer and the more the better, just like laundry soap :)

I got down and dirty last night to transplant all those little 3 and 4 inch plants.
They look great today.
Now that I have all the empty trays I will be able to start planting a bunch more!

I did not have a problem with the roots being to entangled, I was worried about that after you mentioned it Dave.
Also, thank you for letting me know that my soil mix is what I should be using, and it is all a soil-less mix including the potting soil.
I installed 2 more sets of lights using T12 bulbs, I will watch and make sure they are providing enough lite.
I also placed mylar under the plants and on the wall behind them.
I really hope this is enough to keep them growing!

Thank you all for the help =)
cristi

Hi there,
georgez5il: I did check sales@proptek.com. I love the concept of air pruning and am really interested in trying it out. The sturdy root development shown on their website still makes me drool!! ;)
I read about these "Speedling or Todd trays" in Square foot gardening By Mel Bartholomew. But he also says that besides being expensive they are difficult to keep watered. He further says that they are bulky and need to be sawed in half.
Have you tried these out? If yes, what has been your experience? Has anybody else had any experience with these? Please Share your experiences and ideas.
I am yet to contact proptek people to find out about the pricing and if it is affordable. Since they also sell second hand I have to brace myself.

digdirt : I also checked the links but could not find the exact size. I liked Novosel and great sale too! I desire the same size that you were looking for (2.25 x 2.25 x 4" deep). Where did you find yours? I did not see that size on Novosel either or did I miss? Did you have luck? I would appreciate your guidance.

lilamy : Mel Bartholomew went on to state tht his favorite containers remain the waxed cardboard yoghurt cups! Just like you!!So, I wonder if I am also ultimately going to end up doing the same. Only problem is they will waste space between them under the lights. And I wish to raise lots of seedlings this year. Also lights cannot be lowered to adequate height if I keep the cups in a plastic bin for humidity.
But if I do try this then I will insert paper pots first in my yoghurt cups to facilitate removal and ease transplant shock. I have been saving on these cups.

I would appreciate all the input I can get from the gardening experts out there.

Hi

Google "alwaysgrows.com. They have all kinds of sizes.

bing

Bobdole
I do not think starting watermelons now is good idea. It is one of those plants that usually started directly in the garden. They grow very fast when temps are high, hate transplanting. Once vine starts going is not unheard for it to grow a foot a day.

watermelon when started too early indoors come up looking good. But when they realize they have been fooled they die quickly despite care. Atleast in my experience.
I have not had good luck with transplanting.
Regina

I'd like more information on growing the lettuce and radishes in the plastic container. Did you leave everything in the container until you harvested it? Where did you place your container? was it protected by a porch or out in the open? I know the questions are basic but I'm just starting winter sown process and using cold frames and I'd like to hear from someone who has done this with success.

My bin, unprotected, was on my back deck which faces southwest. I left it out all winter and harvested directly from it. I drilled drain holes in the bottom and vent holes in the lid.

I am in a more temperate zone but lilamy seems to be happy with this method.

Crystal,
Here is my set up. It cost me about $130 - 140 totally.

Lights 8 x $8
Bulbs 2 x $20
Heat matt (ebay) $36
Wood (almost all free scraps that I had)
Misc, nails, screws, wire, switches, etc were just leftover material that I had in my workshop.

Just a couple hours of work to put it all together.

So you buy these flats and fill with starter soil.
Then when the seedling grow will they stand firm? Does the light help in this process? Would they get crowded?
Thanks for all the help. I am getting the hang of it.

I just wanted to add, 30 days moist chill may be a little brief for your maple - 90 days is often suggested. You mentioned putting them in plastic zip lock after soaking, but did you add something moist besides the seeds to insure they do not dry out again before sowing? Just a tsp (for larger seeds like maple, I'd use more like 3 tsp) of moist sterile vermiculite or moist sterile sand will do, when you are ready to sow, sow the entire contents of the bag.
Acer japonicum , Japanese maple , sow 3 months @ 39ºF, move to 70ºF for germination.

As for the birch, if the seeds aren't planted immediately upon harvest as George mentions, they need 60 - 90 days moist chill before bringing back to warmth. Surface sow, some light may be beneficial to germination. Putting them someplace warmer than 65 - 70 will not necessarily bring about sprouting any faster than the average of 30 - 90 days and could even delay/inhibit germination.

Last year while browsing around the local garden center I squished and received a hand full of birch tree seeds from a tree that appeared to be really dead and was marked way down. What didn't fall on the ground ended up in my pocket. I went home and forgot about them for a day or two. When I remembered I tossed them in a pot that had soiless potting soil in it, watered them and by the end of the summer I had over 20 birch trees sprouting. I think you will find birch tree seeds pretty easy and fast to germinate. I also heard they don't come true from seeds but I don't really care, I will just be happy to have more trees around here, whatever they are. :-)