6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
If not sown in potting medium or seed starting mix of some sort, your seeds should be in a tiny plastic zip lock, small container of some kind, with a bit of moist sterile sand or moist vermiculite.
They can't be allowed to dry out again now that you've soaked them. I use the zip locks with vermiculite or will sow and wrap the pot in saran wrap before putting in my fridge.
I use one plain 40 watt cool along with a full spectrum in each shoplight, to save money, since I have 6 fixtures. I have complete success keeping the lights no more than one inch or less from seedlings. I even use the warm spot on top of the fixture for paks that need warmth to germinate.
susan...I like the idea of putting the packs on top of the lights that need starting. Never would have thought of that.
I was wondering how I was going to increase the soil temps the 5 or so degrees needed for optimum temps. This looks like it might be the way to do it.
Mark-
Mike, first, your tumbling toms are hybrids, you could find yourself growing other tomatoes from saved seed.
You're getting good germination, so your seeds are viable - the problem you are having must have something to do with your growing conditions for the seedlings and not how you cared for the seeds.
I'm not sure what you mean by bolt. Lettuce, basil, spinach will 'bolt' meaning flower and set seed (often turning the leaves bitter for eating) when exposed to warmer temps or with age. I wonder if you aren't seeing damp off, or transplant shock, something with your repotting process?
I agree with Kate. That's how I do it. Be careful, though. Poppies, larkspur, nigella, bachelor buttons, all need early spring cool weather to germinate, but others may be killed by late frosts.
If you really want success, water the seeded area daily, never ever letting it dry out, till seedlings are up and can manage on thier own with just rain.
I agree, don't use potting soil for the reasons kms-4me stated above. However, don't wait until spring to sow annual poppy (and Larkspur) seed. Sow them now. Just throw them on the ground and tamp them down. Winter weather won't bother them. I don't bother to water them. Let it rain and snow on them. They will germinate in early spring.
Next year when the Poppy and Larksppur seed dries on the plant, sprinkle it around right then. These are self seeding plants.
Hi Jill. I do alot of container growing because the sunniest spot in our gardens is the one filled with cedar roots and rocks. So, I grow plants of all sorts, in large containers and tubs.(Just a big container). I have a feeling that 'container plant'in this case means that if the plant isn't totally hardy in your zone, planting it in a container will allow you to move it inside or to a sheltered place during the cold months. I don't know what "China Doll" is, although I think it is considered a container plant in zone 8 for the aforementioned reason. In fact, I think that at one time I had one that we used as a house plant and eventually moved into a "tub", so we could let it summer over on our covered porch. If you are starting from seed, start the seed indoors in a small pot, over heat. If you don't have a heating cable, you can use a wet/dry heating pad. Set the seed container in a tray and place it on the pad. Or, set the seed container in a sunny window. Once sprouted it will require light right away so the little seedlings don't 'reach' for the light and become etiolated; i/e develop long stringy stems. Then, of course, you would transplant to larger pots, as needed to accomadate the roots. I hope this makes sense to you. If not just jot another post or email me. Have a great 2008!
Hi plant_lubber, that sounds like damping off. I included a link to a really easy explanation and how to prevent it from happening again. The link is an excerpt from a seedstarting book that really helped me as a beginner figure out which seeds I wanted to start and how. I also started with a basic seedstarting kit (there are bunches out there) that gave me everything I needed--sterile soil, fertilizer, cells and cover... now I've figured out my own system but it helps to have that extra ease at the beginning... good luck!
Here is a link that might be useful: damping off
For me, the key to preventing this damping off fungus is constant air circulation. Once I tried closing the window and I got the fungus within 2 days. In 30 years I never had it before, so I continue to keep a window cracked open a half inch, all through winter. You can use a fan.
Also, keep the soil tops from being glistening wet (bottom water and discard extra water after a few minutes), sprinkle finely milled sphagnum moss (mold preventer)on top of seeded soil, and immediately remove plastic covering when seeds sprout.
You'll get the knack with education and experience. Have fun!
I will post a shaggy description on the experiments forum since nothing I do with rooting has anything to do with seed. Now lets see if I can crate a link. I think the link below will work
Here is a link that might be useful: Midwinter cuttings, Gardenweb experiments forum.
Wet a paper towel or paper coffee filter and squeeze out as much water as you can. Sprinkle seeds on one half of surface, and fold the other half on to it. Seal in a ziplock plastic bag and keep in a warm place around 70 degrees. On top of most refrigerators works. Look at it after 3 days and every day after that watching for germination. If you had 10 seeds and 6 germinated you would have a germination rate of 60%. If the seeds are so small you have to unwrap to see if they are growing be sure your paper does not dry out. Al
In my opinion you are wasting your time. Beans come up in a couple of days with direct planting and you would have to wait until it get's a lot warmer before you could do anything with them anyway. Plant some tomatoe and pepper seeds instead.
garden_fool is right. If it's warm enough for them to grow, they are up and growing in a couple of days. If it's not they will just sit there anyhow.
If you want something early try favas or peas. They can both be sown as soon as the ground can be worked.
JMO,
Tom
Parsley is slow to germinate and can take 30 days. Some people recommend pouring boiling water over the seed and soaking overnight before planting. Also suggested is to keep the temperature over 80F until they sprout. I haven't grown it myself but that's what I've read.
This plant is featured in Fine Gardening this month - I immediately wanted some seed! Although some pics look sky blue, the one in FG looks purple and mauve.
The author (mrimpatiens.com) suggests sowing the seed and providing a "season" of stratification (damp, dark, and cool).
Hi Garden,
I feel the same way. I don't have the time or interest to "worry over" plants. I've never sowed seeds indoors. I plant hardy native varieties that establish theselves readily. Wintersowing works well for me- I make the little flats and forget about them till I want to plant them out. But, I also take the same approach with the cold frames and other methods, too.
It sounds cliche, but every garden, and gardener, is different. I am sure you will find the best approach for you. I did do a lot of reading in the wintersowing forum, and the meadows forum, along with this forum. The main thing I learned is- when done in small batches- seeds are cheap! That gave me the courage to experiment more widely.
I am also working in large areas. I have several acres I am working to restore as best I can.
I'm in MI, too.
Let me know if you want more information, I'llbe glad to share whatever I know.
I'll look forward to rading about your progress in the fourms. :-)
I CAN'T BELIEVE THIS WEATHER!!!!!!!! What's up w/ the temps????? It's in the 60's here!!!!!!!!!!
Snow is gone in the Detroit area. . . . Wonder how it is up north where this seed is going.
If I can catch this weather before another snowstorm ~ I'll be gold!