6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Hi Jill. I do alot of container growing because the sunniest spot in our gardens is the one filled with cedar roots and rocks. So, I grow plants of all sorts, in large containers and tubs.(Just a big container). I have a feeling that 'container plant'in this case means that if the plant isn't totally hardy in your zone, planting it in a container will allow you to move it inside or to a sheltered place during the cold months. I don't know what "China Doll" is, although I think it is considered a container plant in zone 8 for the aforementioned reason. In fact, I think that at one time I had one that we used as a house plant and eventually moved into a "tub", so we could let it summer over on our covered porch. If you are starting from seed, start the seed indoors in a small pot, over heat. If you don't have a heating cable, you can use a wet/dry heating pad. Set the seed container in a tray and place it on the pad. Or, set the seed container in a sunny window. Once sprouted it will require light right away so the little seedlings don't 'reach' for the light and become etiolated; i/e develop long stringy stems. Then, of course, you would transplant to larger pots, as needed to accomadate the roots. I hope this makes sense to you. If not just jot another post or email me. Have a great 2008!
Hi plant_lubber, that sounds like damping off. I included a link to a really easy explanation and how to prevent it from happening again. The link is an excerpt from a seedstarting book that really helped me as a beginner figure out which seeds I wanted to start and how. I also started with a basic seedstarting kit (there are bunches out there) that gave me everything I needed--sterile soil, fertilizer, cells and cover... now I've figured out my own system but it helps to have that extra ease at the beginning... good luck!
Here is a link that might be useful: damping off
For me, the key to preventing this damping off fungus is constant air circulation. Once I tried closing the window and I got the fungus within 2 days. In 30 years I never had it before, so I continue to keep a window cracked open a half inch, all through winter. You can use a fan.
Also, keep the soil tops from being glistening wet (bottom water and discard extra water after a few minutes), sprinkle finely milled sphagnum moss (mold preventer)on top of seeded soil, and immediately remove plastic covering when seeds sprout.
You'll get the knack with education and experience. Have fun!
I will post a shaggy description on the experiments forum since nothing I do with rooting has anything to do with seed. Now lets see if I can crate a link. I think the link below will work
Here is a link that might be useful: Midwinter cuttings, Gardenweb experiments forum.
Wet a paper towel or paper coffee filter and squeeze out as much water as you can. Sprinkle seeds on one half of surface, and fold the other half on to it. Seal in a ziplock plastic bag and keep in a warm place around 70 degrees. On top of most refrigerators works. Look at it after 3 days and every day after that watching for germination. If you had 10 seeds and 6 germinated you would have a germination rate of 60%. If the seeds are so small you have to unwrap to see if they are growing be sure your paper does not dry out. Al
In my opinion you are wasting your time. Beans come up in a couple of days with direct planting and you would have to wait until it get's a lot warmer before you could do anything with them anyway. Plant some tomatoe and pepper seeds instead.
garden_fool is right. If it's warm enough for them to grow, they are up and growing in a couple of days. If it's not they will just sit there anyhow.
If you want something early try favas or peas. They can both be sown as soon as the ground can be worked.
JMO,
Tom
Parsley is slow to germinate and can take 30 days. Some people recommend pouring boiling water over the seed and soaking overnight before planting. Also suggested is to keep the temperature over 80F until they sprout. I haven't grown it myself but that's what I've read.
This plant is featured in Fine Gardening this month - I immediately wanted some seed! Although some pics look sky blue, the one in FG looks purple and mauve.
The author (mrimpatiens.com) suggests sowing the seed and providing a "season" of stratification (damp, dark, and cool).
gardenin, the Scarecrow motion activated sprayer works great on deer, crows, dogs, cats, herons...and I suspect turkey but I can't tell you that from experience, the only wild turkeys around here were re-introduced a few years ago and they don't seem to have really established yet. It needs to be connected to a water source (hose) so can't be used in freezing weather.
Flash tape and bird netting are two things that are recommended for deterring them, but remember they roost in trees - if you are trying to protect a woodland planting you might have to get creative with the netting or you would have them flying up and over it.
Thanks for all the advice! I will give this careful thought.
There's a good foot of snow at this place at the moment. One person suggests I sow the perrenial seed over the snow. . . . but I'm not sure this just wouldn't be throwing out bird seed for the birds.
IF the seed melts down to the ground through the snow in the spring. . . . THEN I would consider something like this just before another snowfall. But I'm no expert in this area. . .
I think I'll ask this question again in this forum.
Gerberas are somewhat a pain in the butt to grow from seed. Normally there are only a couple viable seeds from each flower. You can just throw them on soft soil in the spring where you want them to grow. Or you can start them in seed starting soil, making sure to have the fluffy end up sticking out of the soil. Just like it would naturally land from the air carrying it. The fatter the seed the better chance you have that it is viable. Keep moist but not soggy.
I love my Gerberas! Not supposed to be hardy here where I am, but I have had mine for 3 years already, always come back, and have had a few reseed without my help. Don't be surprised if they aren't true to the parent.
Good Luck!
Daniella
I agree with Kate. That's how I do it. Be careful, though. Poppies, larkspur, nigella, bachelor buttons, all need early spring cool weather to germinate, but others may be killed by late frosts.
If you really want success, water the seeded area daily, never ever letting it dry out, till seedlings are up and can manage on thier own with just rain.
I agree, don't use potting soil for the reasons kms-4me stated above. However, don't wait until spring to sow annual poppy (and Larkspur) seed. Sow them now. Just throw them on the ground and tamp them down. Winter weather won't bother them. I don't bother to water them. Let it rain and snow on them. They will germinate in early spring.
Next year when the Poppy and Larksppur seed dries on the plant, sprinkle it around right then. These are self seeding plants.