6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I started with just a few plants in the basement about three years ago. Last year with a four year old daughter helping and wanting her own flower bed out front, we went from a one light set-up to a three light set-up with a timer, and from strictly vegetables to both edible and beautiful to look at. Needless to say, we've both learned a lot along the way. As I write this, she has her nose in a catalog, and we invested in "The Gardener's A-Z Guide to growing flowers from Seed to Bloom" (Eileen Powell)
OK, back to the point. It's something that I tried just to see if I could do it. Now every seedling that goes into the ground is started "in house." If you have a little helper like I have, it's well worth however much it cost'.
I do it because I get unusual plants/exotic colors only catalog seeds can give me. I do it because I like doing it. Yes, you can get earlier bloom with some plants. With others (like cosmos and zinnia) I find they do best planted directly outside. You learn from experience.
Lately (after doing it for 30 years) it's become a bit of a chore so I stopped doing seeds that need to be started before March 1st and buy those plants in the nursery.
I use an 8 tray light setup with two shop lights next to each other on each level, each light with one ordinary 40 watt tube and one full spectrum tube.
Keep a list of when each plant needs to be started (by weeks before last frost), keep the lights no more than an inch from the plants, and always have a fan or slightly open window in the plant room to prevent fungus. Try to water from the bottom and without soaking the top of the soil.
Have as much fun with this and go nuts obsessing over whatever you feel comfortable with. Rewmember, it's for pleasure!
This link should help you *greatly* -> http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/cedars.htm
It helped me a great deal, fwiw. Got me a fair-% of C deodara germinated using this 'method'... Cedar seed is *super-sensitive* to damp-off, if you were unaware of that, so be VERY cautious in how moist the media/seed is kept at all times. Seems all Cedrus is more or less same in requirements for germination, and all sensitive to damping, as well :-)
Many other articles at that site worth reading, too, if interested in growing the seed out in pots - just change the last term from /cedars.htm to /articles.htm
HTH,
Alex
I have always used cuttings for the reason stated. SO>>> If you like a chalange set up a expermint 1/2 seed cold period 3 months then sow some in the light & others in dard. Other 1/2 seed sow some in light & remainder in dark THEN let us know the results.
Apple trees grown from seed may take anywhere from 6 - 10 years to bear fruit, or at least enough fruit to pick. Fuji apples do not come true from seed - you may get an apple you enjoy eating, but don't expect it to be identical to the fruit you took your seed from.
This is the old T&M Germination Database, free for the using.
Clothiers is also very informative, be sure to read through the seed sowing articles there. In fact, I'd save my money and bookmark both. http://tomclothier.hort.net/
Here is a link that might be useful: Thompson and Morgan Database
LadyLotus, if you buy enough from T&M to get a copy free, don't say no to it, but I wouldn't pay for one. I have received copies in the past when they gave them away, and unless they've really enlarged them recently, you're likely to get more specific information about growing the seeds you buy from them on their Web site. Find the seed you ordered and click the More Info link--that contains more specific cultural information than on their seed packs or in their little booklet.
General Info not specific:the plant is not hardy in zone 7 so.... will need to bring into a heated area. Light requirements length of exposure should be 12hrs. intensity ?. keep soil damp not wet. LIGHTLY fertilize ever 4-6 weeks. keep good air circulation around the plant. This tree is deciduous but not sure if temperture sensitive or light sensitive.... so the plant may loose its leaves do not give up but then treat as any other plant that has lost its leaves.
That sounds perfect for their requirements - they grow great in the Sierra foothills here in CA. If it gets really cold, you might need cloud cover or use Xmas lights (like we do here for citrus). Pistachio trees are sexed, so you need a male and female for nuts.
While they are seedlings, I would keep them warm and well drained and not overwatered. They get verticulum wilt if too wet.
Much of my seed starting begins in January with the more challenging and longer-germinating seeds. It really depends upon which seed you are interested in starting. You may get frustrated in sowing annuals indoors so early, even if they bloom because they will quickly outgrow their tiny pots and will need more space. You also have to watch out for insects and disease with growing/crowding seedlings. Vines and tall plants might drive you nuts if started too early. I tend to start early perennials like potentilla, lavender, ferns (from spores), penstemon, butterfly weed, as some of these need a brief cold period first. I also try sowing tropicals early on. Some annuals for early sowing are ivy geranium vine, salvia, dusty miller, petuna, lobelia (loved the cobalt blue flowering inside!). You can also try propagating dormant cuttings and forcing bulbs to bloom. A good winter blues activity is to order seed catalogs (search google catalogs) and plan your upcoming garden, as you'll have plenty of information and seed choices from those catalogs.
hello there! i was browsing and i saw this and im curious... where are the bougainvillea seeds? i have a kick ass looking one at my house, but i see no seeds whatsoever. ive asked, but still no answers... please let me know! and if you have photos thatd be cool too. not too sure what kind of bougainvillea it is thou.
The green beans & cukes are best sown direct & not indoors. Tomatoes & peppers take 8-10 weeks to be large enough to set out. & neither likes cool evenings much less frost.SO>>> figure when you can set them out & count back 10 weeks.
Call your county Cooperative Extension Office or check the web for your county Master Gardener group - they can help provide the last expected frost date range for your area and recommended vegetable variety list.
In my zone 8b, peppers like more heat than tomatoes so I start those seeds about 2 weeks later than my tomatoes. I use 6 packs planting 3 seeds per cell thinning to the strongest as they grow on and bumping up as needed before planting outside.
Tomatoes can be bumped up into larger pots (community pot > deep 4" or deep coffee [plastic or paper] cups > 1 gal - set deeper each time to encourage more root development before setting them out in garden or giving them to gardening friends!
I have an indoor seed starting arrangement made from metal shelves, each with 2 stoplight fixtures equipped with daylight spectrum bulbs or 1 warm & 1 cool bulb (set about 3 inches above seedlings and left on for 14-16 hours daily) and seedling heat mats with thermostats to control soil temperatures. After the seeds emerge I remove the clear plastic dome and turn on my small circulating fan for an hour daily to provide air movement which strengthens seedlingÂs stems; as seedlings grow on I bump them up to individual pots at the 2 true leaf stage, start ¼ strength liquid balanced fertilizer, lower the soil temperature and keep raising the lights to maintain proper distance. Be sure to label each pot or youÂll loose track of varieties.
Take pictures and keep notebook of what, when, where so you can make adjustments in the future.
Note: All seedlings need to be hardened off over 7-8 days before finally planting out in the garden  less transplant shock that way! Tomatoes only can be planted deeply leaving 2 sets of leaves above ground; in no time youÂll have big, healthy plants and early tomatoes provided you keep soil moisture even and drench soil with Epsom salts (2 T./gal) to keep blossom end rot at bay provided itÂs a problem in your garden!
Beans and cucumbers are easily started in the garden after soil has warmed a bit  they hate cold wet soils.
Happy Gardening!
TJ