6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

With the greatest of respect I would suggest that if you want to cut down (no pun intended!) on your maintenance, then you are growing and planning to grow the wrong plants.
You may be better of by growing something like a climbing or rambling rose, you would of course have to tie it in but it would be most unlikely to strangle your spout, obviously you would need to be picky about the variety or species, with such as R.gigantea and R.filipes 'Kiftsgate' perhaps being a tad unsuitable!

sorry i am in zone 6 north western new jersey.

Germination rate varies from tree to tree & year to year. Also have to consider survival rate... just getting though winter without being eaten by mice, etc..... We usually plant many more seed than needed & hope.... give extra plants to friends,

I have one, and wouldn't trust it with my best plants to give too much protection from frost, but it will certainly help for odd nights of frost- rather than a long period below zero.
I had some baby aloes, and only one survived...(but this may also have been due to drought).

But you can definitely use it for earlier seedlings and hardening off.

In England you can now buy a zip fleece coat for them!

If you put it in protected spot, it will help you with seedlings during those nights when temps drop to 32-33 level. After that it bound to get frozen as during night there will not be protection of anything so no difference of temps outside and inside.
Some hardy annuals and hardy perennials won't mind it. Let's say you can put there your early pancies and get away with it.

Remove pulp then Soak seed in water for 24 hours the store at 40F for 4 weeks then>>>>> do not cover seed as 9 hours of light is needed for germination + soil temp 60-70F & takes 28-35 days to germinate

George

Thanks for your response to my question about Liriope seeds.
Is there an easy way to remove the pulp?
After I posted my question I did find a research study that did talk about the warm stratification of the seeds. I've never heard of that before but I'm also a newbie.
Is it worth the effort to grow from seeds or should I just be trying to increase my plants by division?
Any other helpful hints would be appreciated.

This is a zone 9 plant (TREE) also called Australian Chestnut........Lightly cover the seed soil temp 65-70F. & must soak seed in water for 24 hours first

The last time that I heard of someone buying "Lucky beans"
it cost him a heifer and a whole lot of grief from some big jock armed with a club, so some caution is advised!
;-)

Sorry that you've had to wait awhile for an answer to your post. According to B & T World seeds, Beaumontia grandiflora seeds will usually germinate in 7-30 days. Sow seeds about 2mm deep in a Peaty seed sowing mix at about 22°C.

Thanks so much for your assistance.
Barbie

Does anyone have suggestions where I can find a good online seed source for abies concolor (white fir) 'Candicans'?

It sound like you have some seed. But do not count on them producing plants like the Parent ... for that reason the plants resulting from these seed will indeen be interisting.... to germinate do not cover the seed soil temp 78-80F & takes about 21 days to germinate.... best of luck.

Thanks so much. I figured that they wouldn't be true to the parent I was just wondering if they were actually seeds. I guess it's time to get out the seed mat. Should I over sow these? What is the germination rate usually like? There must be 10's of thousands of seeds. I had about a dozen pods that were full.
Karyn

Try soaking a couple of days, then push out the hard seed and wash in dishwashing soap to remove any oily residue.

Donna, you don't say what climate zone you are in, or which crape myrtle...there are some newer varieties that are more tolerant of cold, but depending on variety, crape myrtles can be grown from USDA hardiness zones 6 to 10. In zone 6, even the most cold-hardy varieties will probably be killed to the ground each winter and will be useful only as a shrubby, flowering perennial. I have to add too, that I have 'Zuni' in my own Z8 coastal garden in my hottest possible position with my light colored house to reflect heat - in 10 years time it's an interesting small tree with bronzy foliage and great peeling bark but it's never ever bloomed. Not enough summer heat.

Very fresh seed that hasn't been stored or dried will often germinate, very lightly covered as some light may be beneficial to germination, 70-75F, without the cold period preceding sowing.

If the seed has dried, as George notes in the other crape post: stratify 4 weeks at 40F, lightly cover the seed, soil temp 70-75F & takes 15-20 days to germinate & 15 weeks to reach large enough to set out - so you'll have to calculte your own average last frost date and count backwards.

Depending on what kind of setup you have for growing seedlings, crepe myrtle seeds can be started in mid to late winter in order to get decent-sized plants by the time they're set out when warm weather arrives in spring. If you have adequate light, the young plants will remain healthy until they're transitioned into the garden.

There are crepe myrtles (especially some dwarf varieties) that will be hardy into USDA zone 5 as returning perennials, blooming nicely if (as the previous poster noted) they have adequate summer heat, and if there's full sun. I grow several varieties of crepes here on the northern fringe of zone 6 and some types will flower heavily for months. In a mild winter most to all of the wood of the hardier types will survive, meaning earlier blooming.

Your chances of getting a tree form crepe in eastern Canada are not good, but depending on where you're located and whether a sheltered spot is available, you can still have flowering crepes as perennials/shrubs.