6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
The trays I use have six-pack inserts. I always plant one variety in each six pack. The top comes off and the six-pack goes under the lights when they germinate. If some are slower to start than other's then they stay covered until they germinate.
My set up consist of a metal multi shelved bakerÂs rack purchased at LoweÂs, just the right size for heat mats with thermostats , 1020 trays with covers, and 2, 2 bulb shop light fixtures hanging for each self (above). I use the bottom and topmost shelves for storage and the middle racks for seed starting (arrange to your liking). I purchased full spectrum daylight bulbs instead of plant grow lights and hang them about 3" inches above the seedlings for 12-14 hours per day. I also use a small circulating fan to provide air movement for about 1 hour per day when the seedlings are up
I generally use "community cell packs" for starting seed, picking them out at the 2nd set of true leaves. The plastic trays that hold (6 pack) peat pots are the right size for community pots so save those. IÂm also trialing paper pots (PotMaker) made from black & white newspaper; they last about 5-6 weeks and are a good way to "bury bad news" Â just plant all in the garden! You can also make them using grocery store cans of various sizes and freezer paper tape to hold it together.
Happy Seed Starting!
Tommie
Persons, here on this forum if I recall correctly, have dismissed the hydrogen peroxide suggestion.
I have used bleach as a disinfectant to attempt to reduce damping off. With seed I am unsure if it helped.
But all chemical additives mentioned will lower the surface tension and might affect the physical chemistry of absorption. Physical chemistry, or at least that is what we called it a half century ago, is rarely discussed by plant enthusiasts.
I have found many California native seeds to have an impervious seed coat that response well to rolling between two sheets of course sandpaper, about 40 grit. Dendromecon harfordii needs smoke treatment, now available in paper disc from a south African company available here. Al
A cat or squirrel stew help. The seed to be stores at 40F (inside or outside) for 2-4 months. Then lightly cover the seed soil temp 65-70F & takes 120+ days to germinate.
Note the plants from seed are slow to flower & will differ from parents.
I winter sowed magnolia seeds last year in a plastic clamshell container, the kind you get in the produce dept of a grocery store. It's covered so critters can't get to the seeds but it's vented so you get air circulation. They are also very easy to grow from cuttings.
Karyn
Another source of technical information may be found on the following link:
Here is a link that might be useful: Improving Germination and Establishment of Larrea tridentata (Zygophyllacae).
Hey thanks for the info, this is for indoor purposes and we have SO much light in our place. We have many cacti growing indoors too. Cacti and succulents and they do very well, they grow quite fast! I've read that Creosote Bush does well as a Bonsai, not that I'll be treating it as a Bonsai but hopefully it shall do well. I really appreciate the response. I must have that desert smell in my house.
I've read of people with mulch having no trouble with reseeding, unless they applied it very heavily (inches of stuff) after the seeds dropped. You can always collect some seeds yourself, and scatter them on top after you add more mulch.
The daffodils won't kill seedlings there, but they may shade very small seedlings a bit, if you have very densely planted daffs. Since the daffodil foliage eventually goes away, those seedling will get good sun soon enough.
You can transplant something at any size, just remember where you put it, so you can water it for a week or two. (I do Wintersowing, and we transplant tiny seedlings out of our containers, with no problem)
I think it's good to have something growing in with the daffodils, as it does take awhile for the foliage to go away. It's necessary to let it turn brown, and it's just kind of floppy and unattractive for weeks. Having other plants growing right there will be better than having grass that you can't mow, or weeds to pull.
I've heard that cosmos and cleome reseed well, but it's my first year with cosmos, and I hope to grow cleome next year.
Have you thought about growing Milkweed or Butterfly Weed (both are Asclepias) for Monarch caterpillars, and Fennel or Queen Anne's Lace for Swallowtail caterpillars? Those would be nice additions. If you want seeds, I can send them to you if you send a SASE.
There are other forums for collecting/ saving & trading seed .... Once you get the seed sugar maple seed need a cold treatment 40F for 3-4 months. then lightly cover the seed WITH THE SAMURAI (the wing part of the seed) POINTING UP and above the soil surface... Soil temp 65-70F for germination.
It sounds like your brother lives in a tropican zone where thre is no frost.... It is difficult if not impossible to grow ornamental or shade trees commin to the temperate zone where I live.
It would be best if he did the research there on what plants will grow & then ask you to find the seeds. He should check with what ever local orginizations exist that promote gardening/horticulture
Go to www.gudseeds.com. They have information about most plants and they sell seeds as well. As I recall, they sell a variety of banana tree that grows in the Hemalayas. You should check them out. I hope this helps.
L
Here is a link that might be useful: Gud Seeds
Here is a link to Henry Kuska who is a well known breeder of roses:
Here is a link that might be useful: Henry Kuska - My Rose Hybridizing Articles
Thank You Calistoga and Dogdaze! That link was very helpful..it answered both of my questions!
I know that growing roses from seed is much more intensive and time consuming than from cuttings...but it s more exciting too eh? You never know what you will get!! :)
S
What a fun project! I noticed your post because purple coneflowers were the first plant I grew from seed. I actually did something similar. I started them indoors but had no room, so I potted the seedlings outside in pots before they had any "true" leaves. I also started seeds in the ground and then dug them up and potted them while they were quite small. All of them have grown into full size plants. (And now I have too many!) Often it's best to keep your seedlings in their small peat cells until they get more leaves... sometimes regular potting soil can be too heavy for seedlings. I usually leave baby seedlings in their little cells until they have 2 or 3 sets of leaves. But in the case of these flowers--which have lived through an entire Texas summer outdoors in full sun in little 4-inch pots with no fertilizing and irregular watering, I would say they're pretty tough! I wouldn't worry; they should do fine!
I just plant them about an inch down in soil and keep it moist but not covered. They usually germinate within 2 weeks. You might want to start them early inside because it takes a long time for the bolls to mature once the flower fades. Mine are just now getting ready to pop open.
Karyn
The seeds are viable for a long time - years even.
Seeds are like dust and may be difficult for some to handle. Sow on surface @ 71º in light , germination in approx 15-30 days , grow on @ 60ºF in cooler conditions than needed for germination.
Here is a link that might be useful: