6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed



What a fun project! I noticed your post because purple coneflowers were the first plant I grew from seed. I actually did something similar. I started them indoors but had no room, so I potted the seedlings outside in pots before they had any "true" leaves. I also started seeds in the ground and then dug them up and potted them while they were quite small. All of them have grown into full size plants. (And now I have too many!) Often it's best to keep your seedlings in their small peat cells until they get more leaves... sometimes regular potting soil can be too heavy for seedlings. I usually leave baby seedlings in their little cells until they have 2 or 3 sets of leaves. But in the case of these flowers--which have lived through an entire Texas summer outdoors in full sun in little 4-inch pots with no fertilizing and irregular watering, I would say they're pretty tough! I wouldn't worry; they should do fine!

I just plant them about an inch down in soil and keep it moist but not covered. They usually germinate within 2 weeks. You might want to start them early inside because it takes a long time for the bolls to mature once the flower fades. Mine are just now getting ready to pop open.
Karyn


This sounds suspiciously like damping-off disease which is caused by several types of fungal organisms. For more information and remedies check out the following link:
Here is a link that might be useful: Tom Clothier's Garden Walk and Talk


Pansies germinate best when at cooler temperatures, with 65 as ideal. They don't need cold stratification and they don't need to be covered during the germination process. Just make sure that you use a misting nozzle to 'push' them onto the seeding mix so that you get good moisture absorbtion for the seed. (That's what I do, anyway.)
Warm temperatures dramatically inhibit germination.

I'm not sure....here's the plant information on the Yates website:
Grows 60-80cm. Guess that isn't "mini" for a snapdragon? :)

Sow now or as soon as ripe - if stored over winter at room temperature seed will lose its viability, it's sensitive to dry warm temperatures.
Remove seed coat (soaking 1-2 days and scrubbing with a little dishwashing liquid may help with that persistent seed coat), sow moist 3 months or more @ 39ºF, then place outdoors or bring temperature to warmer but still cool.

I'm thinking that apornictic seed are the result of apomixis. Is that correct? If my thinking is wrong, please disregard.
Onelook.com has links to several dictionaries, including scientific dictionaries that define apomixis. If I am correct you may want to go to onelook.com.
Here is a link that might be useful: Onelook.com links to apomixis.

They sure do...
If your pods are green and seeds tan, they are a little short of being ripe yet.
Most garden forsythia are cultivars and don't come true from seed - also, they are so easy to grow from cuttings (which doesn't mean you couldn't have interesting plants from your seed). Sow outdoors, or provide moist cold of minimum of 30 days, followed by sow at 55F, germination in an additional 30-90 days.

Lilac... store in refrigator (at 40F) for 4-6 weeks then lightly cover seed with soil. soil temp 70F & takes 14-60 days to germinate.
Cherry store at 40F for 12 weeks then lightly cover the seed soil temp 65-70F & takes 120-365 days to germinate
IF the lilac is the "old fashion" variety then will be "true" from seed. The cherry will NOT be like the parent....


No, they don't need to be pre-treated. So I disagree :D
I have pansy volunteers popping up ALL season long...then they just hang out until cool fall, get a burst of growth and start blooming. I'm talking self-sown seedlings from last year as well as from current spring/early summer plants. They keep right on popping up until hard frost and those that don't bloom this year yet will winter over to start bloom late February.
Vera

Thanks for the info. I was worried that the leaves were looking chlorotic because of too much exposure. Do some seedlings simply start off "yellower" and much slower than others?
By the way, I was wondering how many times more powerful sunlight on the earth surface is compared to a measely 2-ft fluorescent tube. I read that the power of sunlight is about 1000-1500 W/m^2. How do I compare that to 1360 lumens or 18W from a typical fluorescent?

Here's a guide that might help. I use 1000 watt HID metal halide lights and have been very happy with the results.
Here is a link that might be useful: Grow Light Guide


Here is a link to Henry Kuska who is a well known breeder of roses:
Here is a link that might be useful: Henry Kuska - My Rose Hybridizing Articles
Thank You Calistoga and Dogdaze! That link was very helpful..it answered both of my questions!
I know that growing roses from seed is much more intensive and time consuming than from cuttings...but it s more exciting too eh? You never know what you will get!! :)
S