6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

So, how did your experimentation work out for you?

It's hard to say. This has been my first year of gardening and well, I don't have any prior experience to compare to. Further, I was caught unaware by how bad the heat on my concrete patio here in Bakersfield would be for seed germination. It was terrible. And there were other problems which were on the learning curve ... like not using nitrogen fertilizers on seedlings or on a lot of other plants. Too much fertilizer can kill and in some cases any will kill.

But there have been some successes in more controlled plantings. For example, my first set of Puya seeds all failed. But planting indoors helped. Again, its hard to say if GB helped.

In truth, I think GB helps more after germination, not before. And of course, that would go for the other stuff too, the Voodoo Juice, Pirahna and Nitrozime.

Most folks soak seeds for at least 24 hours before planting them and I follow that advise, but have soaked them in water with GB added. It really doesn't seem to help that much.

But after the seeds start growing, adding GB did seem to cause some acceleration.

I've taken the following strategy ...

1) Prepare Mulch by adding Pirahna. The microbes that kill mold and break down the mulch will have a chance to settle in and do their work.

2) Plant the seeds and if possible, indoors, under controlled conditions.

3) Once germination starts, add Voodoo Juice, Nitrozime and GB. I also add in some root stimulant.

4) Do not use Nitrogen Fertilizers on any seedlings. However, make up Nitrogen Fertilizer batches to use on certain plants that are very hungry, like Banana, Canna and Palm sapplings that are at least 6 months old.

5) Move plants into larger pots periodically to allow them more root growth which in turn promotes more rapid growth above ground.

6) Identify water restrictions for certain plants and water those plants less frequently.

7) Use Shade cloth in Hot Summer months. I believe many seedlings that survive grow in shade under forest canopies or other shelter until they mature and take direct UV radiation.

I will do some more experiments next Spring, of a type where I soak some seeds in GB and have a control batch that was not soaked, so that I can make some comparisons. It's the only way to learn if it works.

Morz8,

You need at least one pair of true leaves because that is what you are going to hold the seedling by when potting up....never the stem.

I did not know this, can you explain, or point me in the direction of more information.

I typically just handle by the soil/root ball, but I would have thought just the opposite with regards to leaves and stems.

Thanks.

DG

If you have ever used commercially grown "Plugs" for starting your plants you would not worry about root space. The roots on most plugs are the size of a thimble and they do very well when transplanted. Yes always handle your seedlings by a leaf, if it pulls off the plant will grow another. The stem of the plant is the artery feeding the whole plant, if squeezed it can cut off "life support". Al

Pretty easy, assuming you are talking about common English Thyme, Thymus vulgaris. Follow George's recommendations.

Tiny seed surface sown worries gardeners because of the soil surface drying out and the chance of the seed failing to germinate. I have found that watering from the bottom and when the surface is glistening from the water drawn to the surface, cover the container with clear plastic, keep in a 70 degree temperature range until germination. Remove the cover and increase the light and air circulation. When water is required put the container back in a warm water bath to draw more water up from the bottom. With enough light and air circulation damping off should not be a problem. Al

I water my seedlings from the bottom. The vegetable farmers of the Salinas Valley California, water their seedlings using furrow watering,another bottom up method. Many farmers are now using plugs to start their crops due to the high labor cost of workers required to thin and weed the seedlings. Al

Thanks Al,

That's what I wanted to know.

Cheers,

DG (your neighbor in Novato)

Albert, certainly not all seeds are so fragile, but sometimes the abrupt temperature change from 'room' to 0F of most freezers can damage a moist seed, actually shatter the embryo. Mother Nature goes about it much more gradually.....

For most seeds - you might as well say bye bye if you put them in the freezer it will destroy the embryo - the fridge is ideal as seeds are kept in around the same temp when they are in their natural environment - seeds are usually insulated from the cold by organic matter and the air and muck in between and the snow on top further insulates the seed from the elements - Its also important to research the seed you are planning on planting "SOME NOT ALL" seeds require a warm period before cold stratification this enables the seed embryo to develop to maturity - just because the fruit is ripe does not mean the seed is (seeds are a lot like babies this way - they have to come to term) this can be achieved by keeping the seed in warm moist medium in a ziplock bag - I usually warm strat until Christmas then cold strat 90-120 days - then out plant in the spring - These plants have a double dormancy that must be overcome before the germination occurs - Some seeds have a very hard seed coat they must be scarified first this is usually done by using sandpaper or a file or a grinder if the seed is very large like a kentucky coffee tree seed - once you get to the white meat just inside the seed coat stop - This is done so the seed imbibes moisture and can germinate - if a seed is soaked in water for 24 -48 hours and it swells 2-4 times in size it has imbibed and is ready to be planted out.

cheers and good luck

jeff