6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

sewobsessed: I love that site, thanks so much! Sunita, I just use an excel sheet too. I also use cue cards. On each card, I put down the name I know it as, the Chinese name (for my parents) and the latin name. I record the numbre of days it took to sprout for me and the date I started them, and I paste the information about growing (if it's from a commercial packatge) on the back I organize them by using a cue card box and special dividers made for them

i was also curious about such a program, and found one on download.com called "my garden journal".
there is a free download to try, before you buy.
Here is a link that might be useful: my garden journal


paulallen, I'm glad you're having success, but freezing isn't necessary for most seeds. To stratify means to expose the seeds to a moist chill and I don't mean to be critical but I'd hate for your own experience to lead too many in the wrong direction with their freezers.
Druse (Making More Plants): "Research has demonstrated that freezing - which may occur outdoors and is still recommended by several sources - is rarely necessary. Seeds that are subjected to cold (rather than chill) may not always be damaged by temperatures below freezing point, but the conditioning process is put on hold at these low temperatures and resumes only when the seeds are not quite so cold. This is one reason that controlled stratification in the refrigerator can be a truncated version of the outdoor process.
It's now clear that the most important piece of technical equipment for performing the operations of stratification, the refrigerator, is already possessed by amateur gardeners."
In this damp zone of no extremes (cool summers, mild winters), I don't find fresh echinacea seeds need stratifying at all and will normally germinate in 10 - 21 days without it - summer to late summer in places where gardeners really experience 'summer' may be a bit warm for good germination.

I bought my variegated KMOTGG from Summerhill Seeds and had good results with winetr sowing them. The plants are huge, about 8'tall and have just started blooming. The variegated form is really pretty, the solid green one is just a weedy pain around here that I'm always pulling out of the garden.
Karyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Summerhill Seeds

Hi Gladys - congrats! ;) All the FAQ's here cover most of the basics and I have linked the one on "Now they're up!" below. Be sure to check out all the other FAQ's too for info you'll need later.
I find it best to remove the cover at least part of the time so excess moisture doesn't build up inside. It also allows them more light.
Once they have true leaves, remove it and leave it off. Lots and lots of light please. ;) Then get ready to transplant them to larger containers.
Good luck.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Seedlings FAQ


I suppose 10 seeds would be a reasonable 'test' amount which may guarantee at least ONE resulting in the parents' features. Easy to figure out the percentage anyway! If I can get just a couple to do that, then I can just do plant divisions and cuttings from there. I am working on a trade for some echinacea magnus and some monarda.

fgilles02420, don't know if you still are around, but did they end up as you had expected? I was wondering because I just found a garden with them and asked the owner if she would let me have some of the seeds once they finished blooming. I am hoping that you did get 25% success.

Mary,
You could call your local nursery and ask them about your seed question or your local extension office here is a link. They should be able to help you, also ask if you could take a soft cutting from your peach tree. Seeds don't always produce the same tree where a soft cutting would give you the same thing you are growing now. Sorry I couldn't be of anymore help.
Here is a link that might be useful: Maryland Extension Office


Perlite and vermiculite are the Kings of certain crucial things, especially soil aeration. I buy perlite in bulk forms and till it into my flower beds even though I have the best of black dirt where I live. Tomorrow, yet two more boxes of perlite will be delivered in boxes almost big as me, so my wife will sigh and say: "Your Mother warned me before the wedding in 1972, but she never told me you'd become another "potty-trained Martha Stewart. What's next? A chicken coupe full of hens that lay green, pink, and blue eggs?"
I grow MANY seeds both indoors and out. (I forget WHY) I almost NEVER use just perlite or vermiculite as the potting mix for seeds. I add peat moss at around 50%, to help retain the moisture. Yes there is no nutritional value in that mix, but until the seeds become plants with say 2 sets of leaves, my experience tells me that seeds benefit far more from other conditions such as constant temperature, light, water, humidity or say the correct music. One time I accidentally left the TV on MTV after an Eagles concert, and half an acre died from the subsequent RAP!
I DO more heavily use vermiculite and/or perlite for cuttings, but even then I usually add some peat, so that there is better soil contact. It seems logical to me anyway, but then again... I'm the guy who thought it logical to build and put a greenhouse in the living room!
My plants are most always doing well, but I'd appreciate any prayers you can offer for my wife.
jim Palmer



store seed at 65F for 3 months then store at 40F for 3 months. Then do not cover the seed soil temp 65-70F & takes 90 to 730 days to germinate. Cuttings will be faster but to late to start. There must be some place to order rooted cuttings or graftes starts but I do not know where