6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed


This is a tropical plant, so it is not cold hardy at all. However, as origami said, it is very easy to grow from seed. I would sow them in early spring instead of in winter. In warm weather,if you soak the seeds overnight before sowing, they will germinate in only 2-3 days

I got some Bird of Paradise seeds (about 20 in all). After my hubby threw some of them away (he didn't know what they were), I have only had 3 germinate. I had them in a bottom heated tray. It did take quite a while for the 3 that I did get, but when I checked some of the other little pots, the seeds appeared rotten (all squishy). I'm wondering if it was too hot. I now have the others that have not germinated in an unheated tray (with a lid for humidity). Don't know if this will be more successful. My problem now is to get more leaves on the existing 3. They seem to have stopped growing (but are still green, so not dead). I don't know if I should put them outside (where it is HOT) or leave them inside.

Hi, I have had great success with germinating MBOP. I snip the eye of the seed lightly and soak overnight in warm water. I have about 95% germination success this way. Also, I have found that they get root bound very quickly. I planted some in the ground and they took off quickly. The ones that I left in pots have not grown that quickly.

I am fairly new to this too. I have taken my seeds and cut off the bottom (flatter side) and peeled them. They seem to get a fairly good root in a few weeks. I potted mine up in a regular 4 inch pot (like the kind your annuals come in from the nursery) in regular soil (I'm guessing what you have on hand is ok). I put them in full sun at first. One is not doing so well. The other one is doing great, but I had to move it to part shade as I think the leaves were getting burned. I also have a couple of others that have roots (so I planted them), but no stem or leaves. I had to move them to the shade as the sun was starting to burn the pit (which was about 3/4 buried). Can't really say how well they are doing--still no leaves. Next time I may wait until there is a stem before removing them from the water.

I do it every year using Park-Starts. They grow under a generic shoplight with two 48-inch 40w flourescent bulbs. Try to keep the seeds/plants within two inches of the light. My shelf is adjustable and when I'm lazy I just put something under the containers and raise/lower the containers. It's easy using Part-Starts. The directions are very user-friendly. Good luck. P.S. Be sure to harden-off carefully when moving the plants outside.


Daryl, I'm not growing it but from what I can find, Fragrant Angel is a Terra Nova/Dan Heims introduction and plants offered for sale are clonally reproduced. While you may get a percentage of similar plants growing from seed, there is going to be variation from the parent plant in many of the seedlings.

Thanks so much. What suggestions do you have for multiplying it as fast as possible here at home? I don't want to spend $ purchasing more plants if there is a reasonably good way to try it at home. Would it work to dig it up, overwinter it under lights in an effort to make it grow fast, and then divide it? Or would that just stunt it from the move and disruption of it's natural dormancy cycle during winter?
Thank you.
Daryl
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I take care of a public garden in New York and we have Nigella ( love in the mist) galore. Once the seed matures the plants generally die back. We usually just spread the seed over the same area and some grow this year, aome the next. We have them scattered through a large bed of bearded iris and they are a great addition since the iris have such a short bloom time.


I've grown blue fescue (festucca glauca) in Park-Starts under a shop light, for several years. The seeds, then plants, are always about two inches from the lights. Germination has been good and, after I harden them off, they do very well in full sun and partial sun and partial shade. They are such a great contrast for many plants. Good luck with yours!

I dierect sow a lot of seeds. I always broadcast them and let them grow at will. But the best results came from those sown in cleared soil, lightly raked and the seeds protected from birds and rainwash. Maybe you can place chicken wire & clear 'holy' plastic over the sown area. Make sure to leave enough space between the soil & seeds and the plasic sheet or the heat will cook your seeds. Have fun. :-)


I have some seed packets that are ten years old. All of my seeds are stored in plastic containers, with aborbent packets, in a cool corner of my basement. It works; the seeds germinate every year. Usually I use a seed packet within three to five years. Good luck.

Congratulations, Joe. I think you will enjoy the control and variety available to you by growing seeds indoors. I use a different method, Part-Starts, but learned it is important to keep the seeds and new plants within two inches of the shop light (two four-foot 40 watt flourescent bulbs). My blackeyed susan are the Goldsturm variety. I planted them in October, because we rarely get a hard frost before Thanksgiving. Once the plants take, you can cut small plants off the edge of larger plants, and have all of the blackeyed susan you can imagine. Given full sun (or partial sun),and good soil, it will spread. Be sure to mulch well, two plus inches around the each plant. I hope this info is helpful. Good luck.

Pam, when a 'cold spell'(stratify) is suggested for germination, the chill has to be moist or it's just storage.
Rudbekia maxima, fresh seed, sow barely covered, 70F, germination in 5 - 21 days.
Rudbeckia maxima, stored dry seed, Sow 68ºF, if no germination in 3-4 wks, move pot to 39ºF for 2-4 wks, bring back to warm

What I did was in February I put a bunch of seeds in a clear milk carton with about 3 inches of potting mix. The milk carton freezes allowing the seeds the cold stratification they need, then when spring creeps in the milk carton acts as a mini cold frame helping the soil warm up quicker allowing the seeds to sprout. It also keeps the moisture up. When the condensation is low you add more water. I grew a bunch of cone flower this year using this method. Check out the winter sowing forum. That is where I learned it from.
As far as the dates are concerned, I do not know. I would think you would still get germination if you use them in February.
Roy


I'm also in zone 5. Have a unheated greenhouse that I have over wintered perennial seedlings in. Sounds like you could add another row of blocks, then glass over all. Come spring when worried about hot tempatures remove a block or two for circulation. Dont forget to give them a drink of water now and then.