6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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gardeningtoni(6b/7a)

I have a lot of them. These are the purple ones that are not fragrant.

    Bookmark     August 4, 2007 at 1:13PM
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tnangela

The fruit containing the seed should ripen and turn orange and mushy. The seeds are miniscule. I have seedling from Daisy with the pollen parent being either Mystery or Radicans. I planted them in autumn in a pot sat out and the seedlings sprouted mid-july.

    Bookmark     July 28, 2007 at 2:28PM
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malinis

Hello friends
i have a question on growing gardenia from seed. I am trying to bid on a pack of 10 gardenia seeds(Chuck hayes,hardy gardenia) from Ebay, i was wondering is it worth the effort, are Gardenias tough to germinate. is it better to buy the plant? please let me know. thanks for your time. malini.

    Bookmark     August 4, 2007 at 11:37AM
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goblugal(7)

Terri, because this is an F1 hybrid, seed that it produces will look like one of the parents, not the hybrid. Sources that say it is easy to grow from seed are referring to the F1 seed that you purchase.

    Bookmark     August 3, 2007 at 11:58AM
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smittee(central florida)

How about a MANGO There is that hard shell thing/pit in the center with the flesh adheared to it...if I wanted to grow one from........seed how or what do I do THANK YOU. YOU may email me as I never know how quickly a response it give in this site..I asked question a while back and it was a month before I saw a response..I had forgot about asking by then. js4jc2day@hotmail.com
THANK YOU

    Bookmark     August 1, 2007 at 6:44PM
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origami_master(5b)

Smittee, let the whole see dwith te flesh dry for about overnight, them gently pry open the top and bottom. Inside you'll find the seed shaped like a large bean, plant shallowly flat

    Bookmark     August 2, 2007 at 9:12PM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

I've never heard of crapes being propagated by root cuttings, so I can't help you with that one. But stem cuttings shouldn't be too difficult for you.

There are many ways to do this successfully. I'll explain it simply, but you should do some reading to get more background. Others will have their favorite method, too.

Take the cuttings from the newest growth, remove any flowers and/or seed pods. Take the cuttings with clean, sharp by-pass pruners (scissors action) so that the cuts are not smashed. They shouldn't be more than 6 inches long. Remove about 3/4 of the leaves (from the bottom of the cuttings) and stick into a very coarse, fast draining peat based potting medium with extra perlite added for porosity. You can use anything that allows you to insert the cuttings at least two inches deep, but don't use a container that is overly huge or one that does not drain. I typically use a plastic flat like the ones that bedding plant cell packs are carried in, or even into cell packs.

Keep the cuttings moist, located in a shady location outside. They won't like the dry air inside. Do NOT keep checking your cuttings as you will destroy any fragile new roots that may be forming. I wouldn't touch them for about a month. If you feel resistance when you tug very gently after that amount of time, your cuttings have rooted. Leave them alone for several more weeks so that a proper root system can be developed, and then you can repot into slightly larger containers.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2007 at 3:40PM
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schellehawk89(Zone 8 Georgia)

Thank you rhizo. I am trying that right now. If all else fails, I'm going to cut the tree down myself. It's about 25 feet tall. Then I'll dig up the root ball and bring it to my yard and try planting the entire thing. At least I'll have it here, if it's going to re-grow. It's the only thing else I know to do. We'll see what happens. Thank you for all your help. I truly appreciate it.
Schelle

    Bookmark     July 31, 2007 at 5:53PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

I don't know how these will do in your climate (recommended zone range is 3-9 generally), but I do know they are fairly specific in what they require for germination. Warm moist, cold moist, cool moist, in that order.

Impervious seed coats. Shake in dry sharp sand or nick carefully with a file. Sow at 64-71ºF for 2-4 wks, move to 24-39ºF for 4-6 wks, move to 41-53ºF for germination which may be erratic (meaning not all the seedlings will appear at the same time)

Easy way to do them is put them in a tiny zip lock with just a tsp or two of sterile moist vermiculite or sterile moist sand, leave them on your desk. Date the bag. Then move the bag to your refrigerator (not freezer) and date again. If your temperatures by the end of the second period are close to 50, or an average day/night of 50 in Fall to Winter, take your bag of seeds and sow the contents, vermiculite and all, place outdoors. (I have a problem achieving that 50ish temp indoors and depend on Mother Nature here).

    Bookmark     July 30, 2007 at 11:11PM
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yellowseashell(8)

Wow! I am glad I ask the question. I will try but from the information given I may be wasting my time but then again learning is what it's all about.

    Bookmark     July 31, 2007 at 1:11AM
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pitimpinai(z6 Chicago)

Hi Carol,
Wait until the pods dry, i.e turn tan color. They will split on their own and expose rows of thin black seeds. It may be a good idea to wrap each pod with a square of nylon to prevent bugs from tunneling through the pods and the rows of seeds. I don't know if this will work, but it's worth a try.
Good luck
:-)

I love Yucca too, especially the bluish green with curly threads and the green and yellow stripes.

Here is a link that might be useful: Yucca seeds

    Bookmark     July 31, 2007 at 12:04AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Tania, I looked for photos of sugar cane mulch in place in a garden (not something I would find in this part of the world :))
and it seems to be a shredded product. First, your seeds will not germinate under it, and second, I don't think you could keep seeds moist enough to germinate on top of it.
One of the purposes of any mulch is to keep weed seeds from germinating, and the mulch won't know a good seed from weed.

You would do better pulling the mulch back where you want to sow the seeds, pushing it back into place when the seedlings have gained a little size, or sowing your annuals in pots and transplanting them.

    Bookmark     July 30, 2007 at 10:38AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Both require a cold period before they germinate may (1) sow now outside for germination in spring or (2) store in vegi keeper for 12 weks then sow inside for germination/transplant in spring.

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 2:27PM
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carol5(5SEMI)

I also am in zone 5. I'm in Adrian Michigan & I have had good luck with liatrus when I winter-sowed it. (Winter Sowing Forum explains). But it didn't bloom the first year and was very small. I almost forgot that I had it in my garden until this yr. and it's blooming it's head off, looking very healthy. My friends say that when you have larkspur in the garden, you will always have it since it's a rampant self-sower. I find that with cone flower it's slow going with any method, so I just let it reseed usually. Happy Gardening.

Carol

    Bookmark     July 29, 2007 at 10:34PM
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julianna_il(z6 IL)

Thanks, George. I had wondered about heating pads or an electric blanket, but would that help warm the area around the stems and leaves or just the soil and roots?

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 11:13PM
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bonnys

I would suggest the electric heater and a "green house" to keep the warmth around the plants. There are a variety of ways you can create your own green house. I have used large cake containers (like they sell b-day cakes in at the grocery store). I have also used plastic sheeting to enclose a complete shelf (above, below and both sides) on my plant stand. I have not used an electric heater so I am not sure about the temps this would create but you have plenty of time to experiment before spring sowing.

Bonny

    Bookmark     July 29, 2007 at 10:19AM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

Leave the pod on the plant till it is "dry' & the pod starts to split

    Bookmark     July 28, 2007 at 3:10PM
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billsa65

Hi Georgez5il,
Thank you so much for your reply and it seems that you are quite the expert as so indicated on your page. I have taken the liberty to send you an e-mail.

God bless..............

-Billsa65

    Bookmark     July 28, 2007 at 10:47PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

The seed will not come "TRUE" from seed will resemble the 2 parents.

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 2:31PM
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edee(z5/6, NY)

Thanks georgez for the info. I guess I'll buy the real thing!

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 9:16PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

The seed should be allowed to "ripen" on the plant when they start to "dry" then may pick & store the heads upside down with a paper (etc) to collect any seed that fall. Seed does need at least a 4 week cold period which could be outside or in the vegi keeper.

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 2:39PM
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krazy_karma(z8a WA)

Thanks, George!

So how about this? When they start looking dry, I trim the stem, put it upside-down in a paper bag, and hang it in the shed? There's no heat in the shed. Will that work?

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 7:34PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

There is a web sit for trading & selling seed will have better luck there

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 2:28PM
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schellehawk89(Zone 8 Georgia)

Thank you for your response, georgez5il. I will try that. I appreciate you getting back to me. Thanks again.
Schelle

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 6:36PM
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georgez5il(z5 IL)

I do not have specific info BUT store in a cool dry location till ready to sow. Soak seed in water for 12-24 hours. then lightly cover the seed soil temp 75-85F.
I have always use cuttings to propagate this plant.

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 2:35PM
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dinajean(upstate SC -Zone 7b)

Thanks, do I plant them in a pot in the spring? I vaguely remember reading somewhere that they germinate in the fall. What does that mean? Sorry to be SO stupid, I am very brand new at this!

    Bookmark     July 27, 2007 at 4:59PM
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