6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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TheCakePlant

I got a fixture that is currently holding 2 t8 bulbs, which each emit 2600 lumens. A problem, though, is that the fixture is completely black. Can I use foil or something on the inside of it to reflect light?

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 8:33PM
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brandon7 TN_zone(7)

CakePlant, have you considered spray painting the fixtures (at least inside) with white enamel? That seems like an easy long-term solution to me.

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 11:03PM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

neuf -since you are starting a new topic with a new question it would be best to begin a new thread. People tend to keep their eye on the new stuff coming in rather than looking back at older threads. However ....

The 'biodome' looks just like any other seed tray with a plastic lid, as far as I can see, plus sponges which are pointless. It would be cheaper and easier to invest in some simple trays, square modules (pots) and some seed starting mix. This contraption claims to prevent spindly seedlings which is nonsense. It is the correct amount of light which will do that, not a plastic dome.

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 3:49PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree with what floral said above. There have been several previous discussions here about them - most negative. I linked one below and the search will pull up others if interested. If you have more questions about them please start a new discussion.

Save your money. Annuals are easy to grow with a simple and inexpensive set-up.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Park's Biodome discussion

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 6:20PM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

You can germinate seeds near a heat source as long as you move them to bright light the second you see shoots. I put trays on my heating boiler.

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 4:42PM
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carriehelene(5)

that was my understanding, but wanted to double check, so thank you for the confirmation :)

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 4:57PM
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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

Thanks brandon 7! Yupp those are Lowe's specials...... LOL Practical though... Wheels are a must.... Makes transporting from shop to GH a breeze!

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 12:45PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Soooo.......... Are plants hardened off when they come out of the GH?

Somewhat but not fully. Temps, usually, yes. But not to wind exposure and most triple wall cuts UV sun exposure by 30% so exposure still needs care.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 1:18PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Here are some more. Thought I added them before but I don't see them here now.

http://www.germination.us/

http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/content/seed-germination-tips.htm

http://www.thymewilltell.com/seeds.html

Dave

    Bookmark     March 11, 2014 at 7:22PM
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bugbite(z9a FL)

Thanks Dave,
The links are packed with great info. It's hard to image how much time was spent to put together each site.

Thanks Brandon!

No doubt we have the best list of sites.
Bob

    Bookmark     March 12, 2014 at 9:11AM
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brandon7 TN_zone(7)

Many (most?) professional and serious hobbyist iris growers are also hybridizers. If you are wanting to try to grow the next great cultivar, stop by and talk to one of these people. They'll probably hook you up with plenty of seeds. You could also check with your local iris society chapter. I didn't collect iris seeds this year or I would send you some.

    Bookmark     March 10, 2014 at 3:28PM
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brandon7 TN_zone(7)

Oh, I forgot, you could also check out the Iris Forum here on GardenWeb. I can pretty much guarantee someone there will help you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Iris Forum

    Bookmark     March 10, 2014 at 3:30PM
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sf_rhino

I am bumping up a rather old post here, but I wanted to share some results.

For whatever reason in the past I've not had much success with sprouting poms. I had a store-bought fruit sitting in the back of my fridge for about 3 months and I finally decided to crack it open and give the seeds a go. Effectively they were cold stratified in-fruit.

I tested two germination procedures: I filled two plastic cups with some damp potting soil and scattered about a dozen seeds on top of each. I then lightly scattered a layer of soil on top (about 1/4 inch). On one cup I put aluminum foil as per va_canuck's post (poked a few holes); the other cup was left open. Both where left indoors in indirect natural light. The open cup got misted every day to keep the top layer of soil from drying.

After about a week and a half:
Open cup = 0
Foil lid = 6

    Bookmark     March 9, 2014 at 11:15PM
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AlphaWolfZ

Hello,
Pomegranates are wonderful plants, I grew one before but died unexpectedly. The method I used was in this linkhttp://www.muslimgrower.com/discussionforum/showthread.php?t=49, Hope it helps

    Bookmark     March 10, 2014 at 3:22PM
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brandon7 TN_zone(7)

Your baobab seeds should be placed into hot water (I wouldn't using boiling water although maybe? you could) and allowed to soak overnight or up to 48 hours. Do not let them dry out between soaking and planting.

Various methods can be used to scarify the olive seeds. A knife or a file might be easier.

The ginkgo seeds will also benefit from scarification and two months of cold stratification.

    Bookmark     March 10, 2014 at 3:22PM
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dave_k_gw

In my little yard, the squirrels tear up any freshly turned soil. There doesn't have to be anything there for them, they just seem compelled. I have to protect newly seeded spots with some barrier. Onion bags work for a small spot. In flower pots I use gravel or river stone on the surface.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2014 at 8:41PM
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jitsmith(5)

Petrushka - I think your idea may work best, should help discourage birds as well. I'll give it a try - and hang on to the trays to cover my bulbs when I plant this Fall/Spring. Thanks.

davek - same here. I was afraid of turning into my grandfather, sitting on my deck with a BB gun, potting squirrels.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2014 at 11:15PM
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ZachS. z5 Littleton, CO

Did you harden off your seedlings before you moved them outside?

Not sure about your exact location but in general I'd think early March to be too early for maters to be outside. Granted Denver is a much different place then Washington, but were getting snow and night temps in the 20's still. If your night temps are consistently still several degrees below 50, those little dears are probably freezing to death.

    Bookmark     March 9, 2014 at 1:09AM
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JIMMY_SAYAVONG(8A)

These are still in door and under grow light. I just temporarily removed for photo shot that was all. I am just wondering, do I need a heat mat for this?
Perhaps, the ambient temperature is still too cold for it ??

    Bookmark     March 9, 2014 at 4:06PM
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segurelha

I have started wheat, oats, barley, rye in trays and small pots and transplanted them to my home garden outdoors. I haven't tried to let them produce grain while growing in the container. I guess it would be easier with oats since they are a smaller plant. I guess the best is to grow the cereals in a box that is 1 foot deep and about 2 x 1 foot wide.

Beware that cereals like to experience a chilly period followed by a warmer and dry period, with plenty of sunshine.

I have sucessfully grown corn/maize and millets in rather small containers (1 foot deep). The corn were about 6 plants and then I had to hand-cross-pollinate them

Remember that the cereals like wheat also need cross-pollination by wind or your hand, if you expect grain forming. And it will take a few months from seed to ripen grain. Oats are faster, wheat takes longer.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2014 at 5:53PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Assuming proper water and nutrients, the size of the containers will determine if you get any grain and how much IF grown outside.

But trying to do it indoors is starting out with at least 3 strikes against you. It is just too much of an artificial environment for the plants to expect any success. You simply cannot compensate for the sun exposure required plus all the other benefits of growing out doors. Sorry.

Dave

    Bookmark     March 8, 2014 at 7:04PM
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TXBluebonnet11

Here's a photo of one of my grandpa's trees.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2014 at 3:43PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Sorry to not be able to help you directly but yours is a very complicated question best dealt with by an expert in fruit trees and grating them. So if you don't mind I'll refer you to another forum here, one that focuses on those issues. I hope one of the experts there can assist you.

The Citrus Growing forum has several FAQs on grafting fruit trees as well as one specifically dealing with varieties of oranges. If the FAQs don't cover what you need then be sure to post your question on their discussion forum.

Dave.

Here is a link that might be useful: Citrus forum FAQs

    Bookmark     March 8, 2014 at 4:56PM
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rakin(7b)

I will plant it then and see what happens. These are my first try at veggies so I am probably over analyzing everything. Thanks!

    Bookmark     March 7, 2014 at 11:03AM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

The temperature of any given seedling is between 75 - 80 degrees.

Broccoli seedlings prefer much lower temperatures once they sprout -- around 55-65 degrees. Young seedlings can handle temps down to 40, and once planted outside, they can handle temps down to 25. They get stressed by the higher temperatures, which can cause distorted leaves and weak stems. They also can be stressed by moving back in forth from cool sun outdoors to warm artificial light indoors. Too much stress, and they won't form proper heads when planted outdoors.

    Bookmark     March 8, 2014 at 2:23PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

You are pretending to grow these? Could you explain that please before any of us spend a great deal of time trying to answer your very complex question?

All of the fruits you list and many of the vegetables are grown from transplants or cuttings, not seeds, and several of them are 1-5 years old before being planted out.

For example:

the minimum and maximum for apples from seed is 30 and 100 ft.

That is not true. That may be the spacing for planting apple trees, not apple seeds.

Dave

PS: we would also need to know your location or at least your garden zone

    Bookmark     March 7, 2014 at 10:03AM
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ZachS. z5 Littleton, CO

Spacing depends a lot more on HOW you grow rather then WHAT you grow. For example, a farmer planting 100 acres in rows he can harvest via tractor is going to use a much different spacing then a home gardener using raised beds and the square foot method.

The other big variable is cultivar/type. You have "tomato" on the list, but the spacing for a determinate tomato is going to far different then for an indeterminate one. Also "lettuce" is it a leaf lettuce or a romaine? The spacing requirements are much different here too.

Like Dave said, what do you mean by pretend? A little more detail would be exponentially helpful.

    Bookmark     March 7, 2014 at 11:05AM
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Sunil707

Thank you Dave!!

I will start my cabbage indoor today in 6 pack cell. What is the thumb rule for number of seed starting cell and number of seeds per cell? e.g. if I need to grow 6 cabbage in the garden, how many seeds should I germinate to be safe to reach that number finally?

Thank you!!

Sunil

    Bookmark     March 1, 2014 at 7:38AM
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ZachS. z5 Littleton, CO

I always plant 3 seeds/cell, all the time, every time. I thin, of course, but I very rarely have empty cells.

    Bookmark     March 6, 2014 at 11:40PM
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