6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

You are correct in thinking your pits from pickled apricots aren't viable. You might try the Seed Exchange Forum here and see if anyone has ripe fruit or untreated seed they could send you -
Soak seed, stratify 4 months (give the seeds a prolonged moist chill of approx 40F), and sow 4" apart early in spring, just covered, well-drained soil essential, sunny spot preferred. Needs light to germinate. If germination is difficult, try planting and keeping seed warm for 2 weeks before stratification, or simply sow outdoors in early in fall.
Raintree Nursery (reliable) sells young trees, but they also caution that in a mild maritime climate (like my own) they may bloom so early as so not to set fruit. If you were to order a tree, you might ask about your own zone if it's the fruit and not ornamental quality of the tree you are interested in.

You can plant the pit so that the roots are down and the shoot is up. They WILL bend that way if you were to plant it in the 'normal' position, but there is NO need for you to do so. Roots will always exhibit positive geotropism (growing down in response to gravity), while shoots will develop under negative geotropism (against gravity).
Plant the seed in the direction it has already begun and give that poor plant some LIGHT!!! ;-)

I believe that the origin of the seed may be fairly important to how and when it will germinate. The desert in Southern California and Arizona tends to green up and start anew in the Winter. Many cacti start growing in the shade of brush during the Winter when the weather doesn't bake the ground dry.
In the early Spring the deserts take on a certain beauty as all of the new cacti emerge as tini replicas of their parents.
Many cacti produce hundreds of seeds within each seed container and dozens of these containers on each plant. Some seed requires far more effort to extract from the containers. Some states have laws protecting certain species of cacti. Phoenix even has a relocation requirement for Saguaros.

I had trouble germinating podophyllum as well. Tried this year with GA-3 and seeds rotted. Am trying agin now.
I have found that some seedlings will only send a root first year and need second cold period to send up leaves. Also for seeds like gingers is very important not to get temps changed fast- meaning you can't put them into to fridge and take it out. They will do much better with oscillating temps outdoor to produce valid seedlings.

I put the flat of remaining ungerminated seeds outside in mid-March to see if the elements could work their magic. It took patience, keeping the flat watered and in shade, but I am happy to report that I have three small seedlings up.
Thanks for your advice.
kms


I am assuming you have purchased Rosy Periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus). Once the flower petals have fallen off of the plant a small pod will form. The pods are approximately 1/8" x 1". Once these have dried the seeds within can be harvested.
Here is a link that might be useful: 

On the tag it said Red Cooler. We have some others that are smaller but look similar. I don't remember what their tag says. The pod you mentioned sounds like what I see forming on the Red Cooler vincas.
Is it worth keeping these seeds? Do they grow fast or are they slow growing?
Jessica

Hi Sandy,
I did a little search for you:
Some times seeds can take a very long time to germinate unfortunately there are different things you can try. using sandpaper to scarify the seed - warm moist stratification -
usually in a ziplock bag with moist not wet vermiculite or peat. More advanced is something called GA3 or smoke - not sure if it is a prarie species it may reguire a smoke treatment to trigger germination - try a warm period for 90 - 120 days of moist warm - then switch to the fridge around 40 F or 4 degrees Celcius (Canadian) for another 90 - 120 days . A seed is like a little embyro sometimes they need to continue developing even though they can be picked and appear to be ripe - the warm moist period helps do this without the seed drying out - try the sandpapering if the seed is large enough before the warm period - this will allow the water to do what is called imbibe (penetrate) the seed helping the seed to germinate.
Deni Bown in her book "Encyclopedia of Herbs & their Uses" (Catalogue #B2730) recommends green wood cuttings with a heel taken in late spring or by division in spring or autumn. The plant is also grown from seeds, but you will find that cuttings are easier because the plant only sporadically sets seeds and the seeds are slow to germinate and develop.
I'd be interested in trying some of these seeds
Cheers
Jeff

Thanks Jeff,
I've already given all the seed away. The seed are very small. With seed that small I don't cover them, just sprinkle them on top of the potting oil and cover the container to keep it moist. It usually works but haven't had any luck with these.
The cuttings are gone also. We had a wind of about 60 miles an hour the day after I had put them on my front porch. Lost quite a few of my plants in small pots. A tornado did quite a bit of damage to my neighbors place about a half mile away.
When it blooms again I'll save the seed and your more than welcome to try your luck with them.
Thanks again,
Sandy

Hi jhough,
In one case I just threw the seeds in the garden as I was pruning early this spring (mid-March in zone 5/6) though seeds could have blown into the garden at any time since last fall. In the case of the others they were true volunteers. I did nothing at all. The seeds just dropped and started growing. I now have 3 rose of sharon growing in that bed.
Next I have to figure out how big I should let them grow before I move them to a good home. Does anyone know?


It might, it probably does, vary with the brand name. The only time I tried it they all unrolled in a day or two after the first watering.
(I had seen some reforestation people planting tree seedlings grown in cardboard cylinders and I decided to try it with toilet paper cylinders. My experiment failed.)

I tried it and they alternated between drying out completely and getting mouldy. Also the compost fell out of the bottom and the whole thing was a sorry mess. I'm sure there are advocates of "bog-roll-planting" out there, but for plants with long roots (e.g. sweet peas) I now use 500ml yoghurt pots - they're nice and deep. Yes, the plant has some root disturbance, but it doesn't make a huge difference, in my opinion.

lyinseeker,
here's a site with good info, just start down somewhere around 50. Good luck with the seeds.
Here is a link that might be useful: Rose seeds

Annual coreopsis are prairie plants that grow in meadows and grasslands, their stems are supported by the surrounding plants. They also have seeds which are distributed by dropping, the seeds are not windborne, so again the leaning nature of the plant allows for the seeds to be dispursed away from the plant base.
Plants which are native to dryland, natural environments usually require lean soil and plenty of sun. After seedlings are established, gradually reduce waterings and then let the rain be their source for moisture; only water when the plants are near wilting. It's better to prepare their bed well with a few shovelfuls of compost than to provide supplemental feeding.
By giving your prairie plants "tough love" you'll toughen their stems so they don't flop severely and you'll stimulate the groth of a better root system to support that plant as well.
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Seeds offered as bonuses in seed catalogues are great varieties because they want you to order with them again. They're not going to send dud seeds or hideous and difficult varieties...this is business and they want your money; it doesn't pencil out for them to turn off customers.
T

Hi Birkie,
I don't recall him ever saying rain was a problem. Unless it's a massive storm or the rain goes on for several days I guess the bags hold up just fine.
I suppose cheesecloth could work just fine as long as you used several layers of it so smaller seeds down fall through the weave.
happy gathering!



Yes, poppies (pollinated by insects) will cross quite readily. I wish I had more information for you about the distance required, but I can tell you that it would be several hundred feet. Even more than that! But since you are growing multiple colors....why do you want to avoid cross pollination?