6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
echquiltstorm,
I recently purchased Bay Laurel seeds from a Canadian seed company (IÂm in Canada). They arrived 3 weeks ago. I paid $7 CDN ($6 USD?) and received 12 seeds packed in a sealed air tight envelope. The seeds were shipped in a moist pre-germinated state packed with vermiculite. So far, I have one of 12 sprouting.
My seeds came with a fairly comprehensive information sheet regarding history and germination instructions and care instructions. morz8's post pretty much reflected what the sheet said regarding germination times etc.
If you send me an email at ottawapepper(at)hotmail(dot)com, IÂll forward a scanned copy of the sheet.
Good luck with your Bay Laurel adventures.
Bill
NYgardener- now when you say row covers work really well- do you mean you plant the seedlings out and use the row cover for a couple of weeks, or do you just set them out and drape the covers over them while they are still in their pots?
Thanks for starting this thread Tonia- it has helped me too!
I had my seedlings hardened off pretty well, and then the temps dropped to the mid-30s at night last week, so I brought them back in the basement. After four days inside, I put them back out, and now the temps are in the 80s in the day, and it's been tough on a few of the plants. I was hoping they wouldn't get wimpy again after just a few days inside, but a few did. I moved those to a shadier spot, and hopefully, they'll be fine in a few more days. The place where I harden all these off is under a small plum tree, which gives them morning and afternoon sun but shades them during mid-day.
Hey CBGC,
I commiserate. My "What a Dope: Part 1" posting tells of my mishap with rare Tacca chanterii seeds, an account that surpasses yours in terms of the idiocy it tells of.
morz8's expert opinion is no doubt reassuring to you. As for me, I did manage to recover three of my seeds.
Good luck,
cranebill
My guess - the roots might not be able to grow through the coffee filter. Especially if the seeds are small - the primary root will be smallish as well. You could give it a try but I have a feeling the root growth will be really stunted. I could be wrong, but that's my guess! When I'm dealing with really small seeds (basil, for example), I use a modified baggie method - I fill a little tray with peat/sand mix (because I have it handy - other mixes might be fine as well), moisten it well, place the seeds on top and put that little tray (like for take out food, whatever) into a baggie for humidity. Hope this is useful!
Hi, Tussie. I'm new here as well as a failure at seeds (see the thread I just started called "Coffee Filter Germination"). However, I know where you saw the idea about using the filters. It is in the FAQ section right here in Gardenweb/Seed Starting/FAQS.
What the thread says to do after they sprout is to prick them off the filter and put them into the growing medium of your choice and the author likes using toothpicks for doing this.
I am just getting ready to try this and was wondering what you sprouted and how long it took? Did you have to rewet the filter at any time and did you use any chamomile tea or hydrogen peroxide solution with them so far?
If you like, we can hold each other's hand as we walk down this new garden path of coffee filter seedlings. Check out my list in my thread.
I've grown metasequoia (dawn redwood) which is similar but much smaller... anyway, seed germination may be similar. I store the dawn redwood pinecones in the fridge (or just the seeds) for a few months before planting. Then I use the ziplock baggie method (as ibexdeath mentioned), but I use a seedling heating mat under the baggie. Typically about half of my seeds germinate, and as morz8 said, it is erratic - some germinate quickly, some take a few weeks! Once they germinate I put them in a little pot with peat and sand (my typical mixture since I always have a lot of sand around from horticulture experiments at my univ.). Sometimes I put that in a baggie until the sprout is a little bigger, to avoid the little pot drying out. Then they do well in a windowsill, but I've actually given most of mine away for people to use in their yards :)
I've sprouted cherimoyas before - I believe I nicked the shell first (it's been ages). Unfortunately I can't help with climate because I had to sell them (was moving!)... but here's some info. that might help:
http://www.cloudforest.com/community/topics/2.html
good luck!!
Oops - I had 2 pgs. open at once and put in the wrong link :) that other one wasn't very informative... this might be better:
http://www.naturalhub.com/grow_fruit_and_nuts_in_tropical_areas.htm
CHERIMOYA Annona cherimola-Medium to very large most sweet and complexly flavored fruit with soft white or cream flesh with numerous bean sized shiny black seeds embedded in it.The fruit is carried on a small tree that is amenable to pruning. It can also be informally espaliered. It regrows easily from a severe pruning-handy because the wood is fairly brittle and liable to hurricane damage. Cherimoyas need a period of cool temperatures (although they are damaged by actual frost), and are therefore only successful in cooler elevated areas of the tropics. They require very little care beyond pruning after fruiting, and intermittant fertilising with a complete fertiliser. They need fairly good drainage or they will get root rot. A thick organic mulch helps in marginal soils. A grafted tree should start fruiting within 2 or 3 years of planting out. Any grafted tree will have lovely fruit. Some cultivars have smoother flesh than others, or have a slightly resinous taste, or the flesh is whiter-but the difference is between 'delightful' and 'fantastic', so it doesn't matter. Cherimoyas are picked while still firm-usually when the green skin takes on a very slight yellowish tinge. They will be ripen in the fruit bowl about 4 days from picking.
I'm in Florida, so I would stick the tuber in the ground and stand back. I have several plants that are offsprings from the original growing in different areas of my yard. They go dormant in the winter and appear again in May. They like filtered sunlight and evenly moist soil when growing and to be kept dry when dormant. I suggest that you keep the tuber dry until you see signs of growth and then plant it in a pot in well drained soil and then keep it moist.
Here is a link that might be useful: amorphophallus
Thanks very much for the reply! One clarification: I should wait until the dry, unpotted tuber begins to show signs of growth all on its own (just sitting on the shelf) and THEN I plant it? Or do I plant it straight, now, as I got it, and assume it will start getting on with it underground?
Probably direct sun, depends on which direction your house faces.
You are in my zone, but NH is more unpredictable than Iowa. If you are talking about right now, you could start them outside in small covered containers, or cover them with clear plastic (just until they germinate, then take them off) and bring them in if them temps take a nosedive again, like near freezing.
I don't like starting seeds inside but do if I want to start them really early. I do have some lights to set up now and will use them, but it's too much bother hardening them off, I start them outside if I can, especially perennials or biennials that aren't going to bloom the first year anyway. They are less prone to damping off and are tougher started outside.
I haven't grown this one, but I see a couple of the companies offering seed say it comes true more than 90% of the time. You should be able to tell very early which are variegated seedlings and dispose of those not displaying variegation if you wish.
Keep in mind though that if you or a close neighbor have other columbine, these cross pollinate very easily -- that would complicate your plants coming true from seed.
Pretty hard to kill tomatoes, really. They'll be fine, just pout for awhile...lol.
Really!
Susanne
yep, tomatoes are tough and those ones will recover.