6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I've sprouted cherimoyas before - I believe I nicked the shell first (it's been ages). Unfortunately I can't help with climate because I had to sell them (was moving!)... but here's some info. that might help:
http://www.cloudforest.com/community/topics/2.html
good luck!!
Oops - I had 2 pgs. open at once and put in the wrong link :) that other one wasn't very informative... this might be better:
http://www.naturalhub.com/grow_fruit_and_nuts_in_tropical_areas.htm
CHERIMOYA Annona cherimola-Medium to very large most sweet and complexly flavored fruit with soft white or cream flesh with numerous bean sized shiny black seeds embedded in it.The fruit is carried on a small tree that is amenable to pruning. It can also be informally espaliered. It regrows easily from a severe pruning-handy because the wood is fairly brittle and liable to hurricane damage. Cherimoyas need a period of cool temperatures (although they are damaged by actual frost), and are therefore only successful in cooler elevated areas of the tropics. They require very little care beyond pruning after fruiting, and intermittant fertilising with a complete fertiliser. They need fairly good drainage or they will get root rot. A thick organic mulch helps in marginal soils. A grafted tree should start fruiting within 2 or 3 years of planting out. Any grafted tree will have lovely fruit. Some cultivars have smoother flesh than others, or have a slightly resinous taste, or the flesh is whiter-but the difference is between 'delightful' and 'fantastic', so it doesn't matter. Cherimoyas are picked while still firm-usually when the green skin takes on a very slight yellowish tinge. They will be ripen in the fruit bowl about 4 days from picking.
I'm in Florida, so I would stick the tuber in the ground and stand back. I have several plants that are offsprings from the original growing in different areas of my yard. They go dormant in the winter and appear again in May. They like filtered sunlight and evenly moist soil when growing and to be kept dry when dormant. I suggest that you keep the tuber dry until you see signs of growth and then plant it in a pot in well drained soil and then keep it moist.
Here is a link that might be useful: amorphophallus
Thanks very much for the reply! One clarification: I should wait until the dry, unpotted tuber begins to show signs of growth all on its own (just sitting on the shelf) and THEN I plant it? Or do I plant it straight, now, as I got it, and assume it will start getting on with it underground?
Probably direct sun, depends on which direction your house faces.
You are in my zone, but NH is more unpredictable than Iowa. If you are talking about right now, you could start them outside in small covered containers, or cover them with clear plastic (just until they germinate, then take them off) and bring them in if them temps take a nosedive again, like near freezing.
I don't like starting seeds inside but do if I want to start them really early. I do have some lights to set up now and will use them, but it's too much bother hardening them off, I start them outside if I can, especially perennials or biennials that aren't going to bloom the first year anyway. They are less prone to damping off and are tougher started outside.
I haven't grown this one, but I see a couple of the companies offering seed say it comes true more than 90% of the time. You should be able to tell very early which are variegated seedlings and dispose of those not displaying variegation if you wish.
Keep in mind though that if you or a close neighbor have other columbine, these cross pollinate very easily -- that would complicate your plants coming true from seed.
Yes, under lights will help.
Check out Stokes, they have great growing instructions.
Here is a link that might be useful: Stokes Seeds
In reality it doesn't cover that much space. The primary coverage from a 1000 watt bulb is about 15 sq ft, maybe less. The plants on the perimeter don't receive enough light. We ended up putting reflective paper (actually it's more like mylar) on the walls to increase the amount of light.
Karyn
I find that fluorescents provide a gentler light that works better for most seedlings, but HID lights are great for growing on to larger transplants, especially for tomatoes and peppers. For a 1000-watt metal halide light, I had a room divider (the futon-store kind) made up lined with foylon, a reflective fabric like mylar, to make a growing niche against corner walls painted white. It works very well for a roughly 5' Ã 5' growing area.
I never got an answer to my question but I have been watching the specks and they never move.
I have variety of seedlings going and I only find the specks on Malvaviscus Arboreus var. Drummondlli seedlings.
Still no white flies etc. moving around any of the seedlings. I am beginning to wonder if this is some kind of reation to the water (well) that I am using.
Does anyone have any ideas?
TIA
Cindi
The seedlings are now withstanding full day sun at 70 to 75 degrees.
Then they are hardened off.
Usually it is a gradual process - outdoors in the shade for an hour or so 1st day and then slowly increasing time over several days before exposure to full sun. But in your zone you still have quite a bit of time before you can plant most things. What kind of seedlings are we talking about and how big are these?
Check out some of these discussions on it linked below.
Here is a link that might be useful: Hardening Off
Hi digdirt & thank you for the information.
I have variety of zinnia, geranium, morning glory, nasturtium, tomatoes, shasta daisy, and pampus grass.
Some are 6" + tall with tons of leaves, some are 3" to 4" tall with 3 sets of true leaves.
I did go thru the search for hardening off, but most posts don't apply to my zone, so i'm not sure how to use it.
Thanks
Tonia
Flat leaf - sounds like you are looking for purslane. I grow both - moss rose and purslane. They both do great from seed. I started mine in late February and they are just getting buds, should be blooming nice when I put them out in a couple weeks.
Freesia - you won't find seed for any Yubi portulaca. It is propagated by cuttings in the industry.