6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Here's an image and more information from Floridata. I guess it is also called Malvaviscus penduliflorus. I'm going to experiment with sowing the seeds when I get a chance and post my results.

Here is a link that might be useful: picture of Turk's Cap Hibiscus

To update, the seeds never sprouted. It is easy to root trimmings by just sticking them into moist ground.

Could this be sunscorching?

Yes. That and the effects of the severe light/temp change. Just like we humans. :-)

It affects the most established plants the most because there is more there to get ~shocked~ ;). If not too badly damaged they will recover but baby them, a little misting (feels good on a sunburn), keep them inside or under cover until they do and no feeding.

That sounds right to me, too. Actually the other marigolds are turning purple, too. The seed leaves for both the 2 foot and 6 inch marigolds are purple withthe larger ones more affected. The zinnias are completely fine though-- but then again, they are not dealing withthe seed leaves thing. Does that put stress on plants? Also how do I keep them covered if they are in a 72 cell tray with others being hardened off?
--Zinn

Yes, replant so the new soil level is just at the level of the seedling leaves. As the cotyledons die off a new root mass will develop there. When you transplant them to the garden do the same - base of the leaves.

Thanks for the info.

It's true. The division size depends on how big the old clump is. I usually go for cutting in half but you can do thirds or even fourths on really big 3' wide clumps.

It is best done when the plant is dormant, use a very sharp knife to slice vertically down through the plant, root ball and all. Re-plant the divisions and water well.

And yet another cold start captured by the bad guys not yet controlled by a warming soil. You may replant but I would use some potting medium in the hole when you do. By the time you are ready your soil biology will have ballanced itself and will very likely take care of the problem. I have a lot of early start friends in the same boat. They are starting over just like you. Cold soil very often presents this problem. Not much good goes on until the ground temperature is at fifty degrees. It gets better from there on as your soil warms.

Remember the only consistancy in gardening is the very inconsistancy of it all. Being a late starter this year may not be all that bad.

Thanks---I was hoping you'd say that :-)

I thought wisteria was a vine or am I misunderstanding here with the difference in spelling. Are you searching for wysteria spelled WY as opposed to WI for wisteria? mmmmm this could be interesting, please tell me more so I can learn.

Cindi

I have wisteria seeds that came from the pods on the VINE. I'm not sure what you mean? Wisteria is a vine but with constant pruning of the vines it can be trained as a tree. It will still produce vines that will have to be pruned to maintain that tree shape. But it is still a vine. Or are you thinking of another plant? I haven't come across a vine spelled wYsteria instead of wIsteria. If there is another type of plant/vine w/that name Id be curious to know.

Maybe for some, others should be ok. I started a lot indoors earlier but couldn't do them all. What I am doing now for some is planting them in covered things outside and watching them like a hawk. When they germinate, I take the covers off and either mist or bottom water because I cut slits in the bottom of the containers (McDonals's covered salad dishes). Then I will only have to transplant on cloudy days and not have to worry about hardening them off at least.

Many I wanted to just sow where they are to bloom, I started a thread about that. I can't start and transplant everything like I said above. Despite 3 days of heavy rain last week, the sun has baked the surface of the soil.

The ones I am starting in containers outside, I put in a shady spot until they germinate, then move into a sheltered spot where they will get a lot of sun but not cook in it all day. Later they can go in full sun. I will transplant the seedlings into little plastic cups with a slit cut in the bottom, put in some pans I got at the dollar store, you could use dishpans but I couldn't find any cheap enough.

Then I will put them where I want them. I feel I have a little better control that way rather than planting directly in the ground for some things.

I am just kind of winging it. I got some shop lights for other things like propagating cuttings later and some seeds. But there is a limited amount of things you can grow that way unless you have shop lights all over the place.

I found out the hard way, they get leggy if you use an east window. The ones I started in south windows are doing a little better, but I have to keep turning them.

In certain plants, what we think of as seeds are really fruits with several seeds inside. When these are small and hard, it's impractical to get the seperate seeds apart before planting. The common garden beet is a fine example. When you plant beets, you should really thin them after germination even if you have spaced the seed, because you mostly get multiple plants from each "seed".

George

There are plants that produce polyembrionic seeds with more than one seedling per seed - citrus commonly do this. It may happen more often than you would guess, often the dominant seedling takes over and the weaker dies off. But I couldn't begin to guess the frequency in which cerinthe seeds are polyembrionic, my education doesn't extend nearly that far :)

Some time back, someone posted very clear photographs of a polyembrionic hellebore seed with more than one surviving seedling, very interesting.