6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Try direct seeding those sunflowers in the garden about May the 15th to May 25th. in zone five. I have never had a success transplanting a sunflower. My past attempts at potting and transplanting have done what your's are doing.
Plant them at least twelve to fifteen inches apart. Use two seeds per planting and cull for the best of the two. Cut do not pull your cull. Pulling will harm the keeper's small tender root system.

I wish I could, but at the moment, I'm gardening out of a balcony, which means I have to rely on pots, pots and more pots. I planted them about 2-4 to a pot, depending on the size of the pot, giving myself a 50% chance of failure.
They are looking alright so far. Still standing upright, and new leaves are forming. Hopefully they keep that up!
But I'll be moving soon to a house with a raised plant box. Planning to plant a whole row of sunflowers - mixed between Mexican and this one. Not sure if I should transplant what I already have or leave them as it is. Maybe I'll just start afresh. Wish me luck! :)

You are doing right a bit late. Your problem seeds like to be wrapped in wet paper toweling and soaked for about four hours. From this point forward they like to be dry. My guess is that your potting soil was to wet. Ideally they like to be planted in just damp seedling potting medium. Dry damp is another way to say it. They will do best germinating in about 80 degree temperature. I use a camping cooler sitting on a house type heating pad to achieve 80 degrees. When germinated this way they should emerge in three to five days. Within four more days you will have the first true leaf. Set them under lights for another four days after which they are ready to depot and plant in your garden. If your soil is cold and wet damping off may still happen. To avoid this in a cold spring start use a temporary plastic cold frame to help them get going.
I have observed that fifty degree soil temperature is about the minimum required for a good start in a temporary cold frame. Timing is important. They do not like to be pot bound. The roots should just be touching the bottom of your planting pot. If I feel I may need a couple more days I would plant the seedling in a gallon sized paper ice cream container. Your problem kids are very vigerous. They do not like to be slowed down or stopped by the seedling pot or cold weather.
Key phrases are: Soak them four hours, pot them in damp dry soil, germinate in 80 degree temperature, do not water the pot, place under lighting and move to the garden in no more than five or six days following the emergence of the first true leaf.
With your two problem childs I would start over to be assured of healthy seedlings. You have time to do this and may even be going into the soil when it is in better condition to grow your plants.

The mold is caused by your soil - it is a common problem when mixes containing soil are used to germinate. I suggest you use instead a so-called sterile soiless mix - Jiffy Mix is a common brand and readily available. If you can't find it any other soiless mix will work. Some make their own from equal parts of peat and vermiculite or perlite but home sterilization can be difficult.

Oh. Okay. Thank you for the reply! I need to double check if it's safe for guinea pigs. I've done a preliminary search that claims perlite is non-toxic? Do you happen to know if these things are non-toxic or note? The problem I've had with potting soils, is they all contain plant food. So, I've been leery of them.
Do you happen to know how to sterilize dirt?
Thanks!

My marigolds started blooming at the same stage this year. I just left them be, figured that if nature was telling them to bloom who was I to object :-) They're now still small plants with maybe 3 sets of leaves but 3 blooms per plant, seem to be quite healthy, you could try pinching half and see which do better.

Monarda Raspberry Wine is a hybrid - your plants grown from seed may or may not resemble their parent.
Seeds are small -approx 1/32" across and tan colored. Gather the mature seed heads (dried flowers) and place on a plate to dry for a few days. Use a fine meshed kitchen sieve to filter out the seeds, if you can't get all the chaff removed, sow it along with the seed - doesn't hurt anything.
They should germinate in approx 2 weeks @70F, barely cover seed if at all, some light may be beneficial to germination.

I collected seed heads from some nice bright red monarda last fall and kept them in the fridge. When I went to sow them this spring I couldn't tell the seeds from the chaff but just sowed it all. They germinated about %200 in 10 days.

alyssum can be direct sown, lobelia I read needs to be 10-12 weeks before last frost date sown indoors.
I mix small seeds with either sawdust or contactors sand, 3 parts inert to 1 part seed. After the inert and seed are mixed divide this in 1/2. Sow the area once then go back again for a second sowing with the other half for full coverage.
Either distribute with a salt shaker for the sand or for the larger areas I use a broadcast spreader.


Heirloom seeds should not pose any special problems. I started mainly heirloom seeds 5 weeks ago in my greenhouse using propagation trays and heating mats and had a 90-95% success rate; most seedlings came up in 3-7 days. What method do you use to start your seeds?


>>I put some out in a window box trellis last week and they are vining up it already!!
great to hear.
I was planning on moving them out in the garden next week. we are expecting some warm weather, with not cold nights.... so this gives me hope.
thanks for the info

Figs can start from seed but need to be wasp pollinated, which does not always happen. Expect a low germination. I start mine in sphagnum. They also start in soil  sometimes the birds transplant seeds from neighboring trees. Some varieties of ficus are very slow growing, so expect to watch seedlings very closely the first couple of years.
Fresh is going to be better, but you will lose nothing by trying. If the figs were sun dried without treatment your changes are improved.
Most people will encourage you to start by cutting. I encourage seed experimentation  I have obtained some rare varieties not available by cutting just because my seeds germinated.


I had 1 tray get hit by what I can only imagine was Damp off this year... I started watering everything else with either chamomile tea or 1:9 3% peroxide less frequently (currently bottom watering 1x/day, but was misting 2x/day) and placed 24/7 fans on everything... Also started bringing hardier plants outdoors on warm mornings for more "breeze". Luckily, no other trays have been hit so far. Hope that helps,
Amy


I have repotted much smaller seedlings with great success- as long as you easy with your hands and hold seedlings gently- you can repot seedling as soon as you see gemination. I would also bury them deeper.
Can you move the lights closer? It looks like they are straining to the right.