6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

I'm new to this as well. Gave my first real go at starting from seeds last year, so I'm not much help, but I have read a TON. You didn't mention how long you had your lights on, but everything I read mentions to have your lights on between 12 and 18 hours a day. I haven't paid attention to the calendar when I move to bigger pots either, but if I had to guess, I'd say about 5 weeks. One tomato gardener recommend transplanting to bigger pots when they start to sprout their first real set of leaves (not the cotyledons - first two to appear). Good luck to us both!

Looking great so far! Better than what I set up the first time around! I've been adjusting myset up over the last few months based on everything I've learned on here.

My only issue is I planted more than I have room for now I have like 50 plants and only two shelves of 2x4 spaces. x.x

Hi.
After trying for three weeks with various methods (baggie, cold strat, soilless mix etc), I was able to germinate one seed.

I wonder if adding plant hormone will give it a healthy head start. MY seedling looks a bit weak and I wanna do everything i can to help it thrive since its the only seed that germinated.

Also in general, is it good to use plant hormones (hormex) to seedlings?

Thanks.

I planted a flat of Lavender Vera, yesterday. I set the temperature to 70. Do they require light to germinate? I can't find any information on growing them.

I drilled bigger holes in mine so the s hooks would fit.

I thought about that - but the wiring and ballast is right there on several of them. I'm devising some kind of pulley system next year.

Citrus seed doesn't need to be scarified in order to germinate.

I have very little first-hand knowledge with citrus seeds, and the ones I have grown were not scarified, BUT lots of sources say that doing so improves germination rate. Drakemoore, if you find a good answer (and especially if you find a good explanation of why), please come back and tell us here.

I had to leave some for 5 weeks last year, (long story) and did as digdirt said - left them cool and dark, and all was well.

BTW, if you're planting spuds already, you should know that in my heart, I hate you - I'm still shovelling snow :-(

You don't want to plant potatoes immediately after cutting. The rot too easily if you don't let the cut end dry. My husband cuts ours up and puts them in the garden shed for about a week. It is dark and dry in there. After that he plants them and we never have a problem with them sprouting after they are planted.

I don't see a problem leaving them for longer

Using cold frames is a hands on learning experience. I have several of similar design and they're all somewhat different as to how much heat they hold. Here in zone 5 I probably won't start putting tender plants out until April. I have no problem putting cold tolerant plants out in the frames practically anytime during the cold season.

Generally the seedlings go in the frame where there is full shade for a few days, then partial shade and finally full sun. Not unlike hardening off in the great outdoors.

If it gets really cold I cover the top with space blanket tarps and or old sleeping bags. I also do that with my tunnels. My roommate says it looks like a shantytown.

Some folks put milk jugs full of water in their frames early in the season, to soak heat up in daytime and give off heat at night.

Oh, always....but what do I care? I am going to be eating them whatever variety and I can usually recognise flower seedlings pretty early. I barely even bother with any labelling since it has been a cause of so much stress (since I grow at least 20000 seedlings every year).
It's all a nice surprise.

I use Venetian blind panels cut to required length with a pair of scissors as marker sticks, and write with a Sharpie Industrial pen - works both indoors & out, and is cheap!

Agree that you don't need to order special grow bulbs for seedlings. Lots of discussions here about that fact. But if you want to use them for some reason then if they will fit will depend on the bulb.

Length isn't the only issue, so is the diameter and the pin distance, and if the ballast in the fixture will be strong enough to trigger them. Some of the chip board ballasts won't. Usually if they are the same diameter of regular shop light bulb then the pins will fit.

Dave

If you don't have the bulbs yet, consider using a warm white and a cool white together. You can surely get them in the right size for a shop light, for less money. One is stronger in the blue end of the spectrum, the other stronger in the red end. Together, they give a broader spectrum than either one alone. Grow lights give still more of the spectrum, but I'm not sure your seedlings will care.

Thank you everyone. The one image that looks like 'pot' is an African Marigold.

I didn't evne think much of those spots, was thinking more about my tomato plants issues.

Upon closer inspection from you guys mentioning it, it does appear it has spidermites of some sort. Close up image included, click for full-res.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wuhh7fg4rs4ortt/2014-03-03%2014.51.02.jpg

Thank you. I've isolated the plant, might just give up on the flowers all together since they're wasting growing space and are cheap to buy/and I can seed them directly later instead.

also the original concern was the spots on the cherokee purples which slight leaf curl but seems the spots are normal. :)

Also they are all a bit root bound, need to find a way to pot them up again I guess or do you think they'll be okay for another 2-3 weeks? Maybe another month depending on our weather. I have some half-gal and 1 gal containers, but not enough room for the 50 or so total tomato/pepper plants I have.

Also they are all a bit root bound, need to find a way to pot them up again I guess or do you think they'll be okay for another 2-3 weeks? Maybe another month depending on our weather. I have some half-gal and 1 gal containers, but not enough room for the 50 or so total tomato/pepper plants I have.

That's the problem all of us encounter when we start the plants too early and the weather doesn't cooperate. But they can't remain rootbound. That only stresses them more and risks plant loss from pests or transplant shock.

So some interim solution is usually required. Things like more space/lights or a cold frame they can go into or a low tunnel to protect them, pre-warming your soil and planting them under protection, etc. Some even have to sacrifice some plants for the good of the rest.

I don't know what size pots you are currently using but increasing it even a small amount will be better than doing nothing. What is your normal plant-out date?

Dave

I have grown geraniums for years and I've seen plants that look like yours before and I know it's from keeping them too wet.

Those ones that have red leaves probably have blackleg and are rotting from too much water. Your mix might be off this year and holding on to too much water. Turn off your drip and let them dry out before you lose them all.

Always err on the side of keeping geraniums too dry. They can stand periods of no water but too much is a death knell

yeah someone already said it but i water my seedlings with either a 25 or 50% water soluble organic fertilizer if you want to do it every watering give them a 25% if you only want to do it once a week then do 50% strength. I invite you to join my youtube channel and ask me question watch my garden vlog and general how too's.

Here is a link that might be useful: TheItalian Garden

CUgal, not on this thread, and I can't remember which. you asked about sowing small seeds. Well, I did a bunch of snapdragons yesterday. What I did was sprinkle the seeds on a sheet of white paper, then heavily blow on my finger (for moisture) and then touch the seeds. Then i could disperse them as I wanted, or so I think :)

All the best

SCG

Thanks SouthCountryGuy! That sounds like it would work! Let us know how well they germinate....... My arthritic hands are always looking for new methods to sow those tiny seeds!

Putting them outside all depends on your weather but they would have to be hardened off first.

All of the plants are very leggy due to stretching too far for too little light. The stems should only be no more than 1/2 that height. Check out the FAQs here on how to grow seedlings indoors. Supplemental lights are required. Window light alone is never sufficient for young seedlings.

Cucumbers are best direct seeded in the garden, not grown with transplants. Not only do they not transplant well much of the time but they grow far too fast for most indoor set-ups to cope with them well enough until they can go to the garden. They tend to stunt if transplanted after the 3-4th true leaf develops.

Dave.

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs

As Dave said!

I started a few indoors, though plan to direct seed the 8-10 cucumber plants I plan to have. Just wanted to study their growth process, and they do grow faaaaast. Root bound very quickly.

The symptoms sound like damping off.

Here is a link that might be useful: Damping off

Agree with floral - you describe the classic symptoms of damping-off. In addition to the resource floral linked there is a FAQ here and numerous discussions about what causes it including photos. Just type 'damp-off' into the search box here or on Google.

Unfortunately the plants are usually not salvageable.

Sorry.

Dave