6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Using cold frames is a hands on learning experience. I have several of similar design and they're all somewhat different as to how much heat they hold. Here in zone 5 I probably won't start putting tender plants out until April. I have no problem putting cold tolerant plants out in the frames practically anytime during the cold season.

Generally the seedlings go in the frame where there is full shade for a few days, then partial shade and finally full sun. Not unlike hardening off in the great outdoors.

If it gets really cold I cover the top with space blanket tarps and or old sleeping bags. I also do that with my tunnels. My roommate says it looks like a shantytown.

Some folks put milk jugs full of water in their frames early in the season, to soak heat up in daytime and give off heat at night.

Oh, always....but what do I care? I am going to be eating them whatever variety and I can usually recognise flower seedlings pretty early. I barely even bother with any labelling since it has been a cause of so much stress (since I grow at least 20000 seedlings every year).
It's all a nice surprise.

I use Venetian blind panels cut to required length with a pair of scissors as marker sticks, and write with a Sharpie Industrial pen - works both indoors & out, and is cheap!

Agree that you don't need to order special grow bulbs for seedlings. Lots of discussions here about that fact. But if you want to use them for some reason then if they will fit will depend on the bulb.

Length isn't the only issue, so is the diameter and the pin distance, and if the ballast in the fixture will be strong enough to trigger them. Some of the chip board ballasts won't. Usually if they are the same diameter of regular shop light bulb then the pins will fit.

Dave

If you don't have the bulbs yet, consider using a warm white and a cool white together. You can surely get them in the right size for a shop light, for less money. One is stronger in the blue end of the spectrum, the other stronger in the red end. Together, they give a broader spectrum than either one alone. Grow lights give still more of the spectrum, but I'm not sure your seedlings will care.

Thank you everyone. The one image that looks like 'pot' is an African Marigold.

I didn't evne think much of those spots, was thinking more about my tomato plants issues.

Upon closer inspection from you guys mentioning it, it does appear it has spidermites of some sort. Close up image included, click for full-res.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wuhh7fg4rs4ortt/2014-03-03%2014.51.02.jpg

Thank you. I've isolated the plant, might just give up on the flowers all together since they're wasting growing space and are cheap to buy/and I can seed them directly later instead.

also the original concern was the spots on the cherokee purples which slight leaf curl but seems the spots are normal. :)

Also they are all a bit root bound, need to find a way to pot them up again I guess or do you think they'll be okay for another 2-3 weeks? Maybe another month depending on our weather. I have some half-gal and 1 gal containers, but not enough room for the 50 or so total tomato/pepper plants I have.

Also they are all a bit root bound, need to find a way to pot them up again I guess or do you think they'll be okay for another 2-3 weeks? Maybe another month depending on our weather. I have some half-gal and 1 gal containers, but not enough room for the 50 or so total tomato/pepper plants I have.

That's the problem all of us encounter when we start the plants too early and the weather doesn't cooperate. But they can't remain rootbound. That only stresses them more and risks plant loss from pests or transplant shock.

So some interim solution is usually required. Things like more space/lights or a cold frame they can go into or a low tunnel to protect them, pre-warming your soil and planting them under protection, etc. Some even have to sacrifice some plants for the good of the rest.

I don't know what size pots you are currently using but increasing it even a small amount will be better than doing nothing. What is your normal plant-out date?

Dave

I have grown geraniums for years and I've seen plants that look like yours before and I know it's from keeping them too wet.

Those ones that have red leaves probably have blackleg and are rotting from too much water. Your mix might be off this year and holding on to too much water. Turn off your drip and let them dry out before you lose them all.

Always err on the side of keeping geraniums too dry. They can stand periods of no water but too much is a death knell

yeah someone already said it but i water my seedlings with either a 25 or 50% water soluble organic fertilizer if you want to do it every watering give them a 25% if you only want to do it once a week then do 50% strength. I invite you to join my youtube channel and ask me question watch my garden vlog and general how too's.

Here is a link that might be useful: TheItalian Garden

CUgal, not on this thread, and I can't remember which. you asked about sowing small seeds. Well, I did a bunch of snapdragons yesterday. What I did was sprinkle the seeds on a sheet of white paper, then heavily blow on my finger (for moisture) and then touch the seeds. Then i could disperse them as I wanted, or so I think :)

All the best

SCG

Thanks SouthCountryGuy! That sounds like it would work! Let us know how well they germinate....... My arthritic hands are always looking for new methods to sow those tiny seeds!

Putting them outside all depends on your weather but they would have to be hardened off first.

All of the plants are very leggy due to stretching too far for too little light. The stems should only be no more than 1/2 that height. Check out the FAQs here on how to grow seedlings indoors. Supplemental lights are required. Window light alone is never sufficient for young seedlings.

Cucumbers are best direct seeded in the garden, not grown with transplants. Not only do they not transplant well much of the time but they grow far too fast for most indoor set-ups to cope with them well enough until they can go to the garden. They tend to stunt if transplanted after the 3-4th true leaf develops.

Dave.

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs

As Dave said!

I started a few indoors, though plan to direct seed the 8-10 cucumber plants I plan to have. Just wanted to study their growth process, and they do grow faaaaast. Root bound very quickly.

The symptoms sound like damping off.

Here is a link that might be useful: Damping off

Agree with floral - you describe the classic symptoms of damping-off. In addition to the resource floral linked there is a FAQ here and numerous discussions about what causes it including photos. Just type 'damp-off' into the search box here or on Google.

Unfortunately the plants are usually not salvageable.

Sorry.

Dave

Last year was my first year growing tomatoes from seed (that is my disclaimer I have grown tomatoes for a few years just never from seed)...

I tried san marzano redorta from seed... out of 24 seeds I got TWO plants... my brandywines and other non-tomato seedlings all sprouted. I admit I did the newbie thing and overwatered them... once mine grew I transplanted them out and we had a very wet spring-early summer and I got millions of green tomatoes on it but very few red ones (they were very difficult to ripen off the vine).

When I asked around it sounds like San Marzano redorta's like hot dry climates and do well that way.. all the rain didn't help.

This year I am giving Opalka's a try. But just sharing my experience (for what its worth.. I am a relative newbie)

I grew San Marzanos from seed for the first time last year. Mine did take such a long time to germinate, I thought I had gotten some bad seed. But they did well and I had some of the best fresh salsa I have ever made. Well worth the wait. BTW after the seeds sprouted, they seemed to grow at a "normal" rate. I am looking forward to growing them again this year.

Oh wow! Way past the pinching stage. I'd cut the stem just below the joint of that top leaf on the right. In between the 2 leaves on the top right of the picture.

Dave

so im literally only taking off the top 3 leaves? and by doing that, i will encourage new root growth?

Its taken so long for it to grow, i just dont want to damage it.