6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Probably neither since exposure to both bacteria and fungal virus while growing indoors is extremely rare as exposure would be difficult.

The purpling is common with young seedlings with young roots when growing in cool environments - especially if watered with cold water too. It is a normal physiological response for the seedlings and disappears naturally as the plant matures. It requires no intervention 95% of the time.

The bumps are on the leaves or the stems? On the leaves it is usually water blisters from over-watering and disappears as soon as you cut back on the water and/or humidity. If on the stems they are called adventitious roots and are normal in older plants - very common with Maxifort. In young seedlings it can also be a sign of over-watering.

Would need much more info and hopefully a pic to be more specific.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 19, 2014 at 6:36PM
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brandon7 TN_zone(7)

This same post was also included in the Trees Forum and has been answered there. See link below for that thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Duplicate Post in the Trees Forum

    Bookmark     February 19, 2014 at 5:07PM
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dowlinggram

Where are you going to start these seeds. Do you have a light setup or cold frame to start them early. A window sill doesn't give enough light to grow good plants. Most seeds need a few weeks head start indoors before going outside after danger of frost is past.

If you don't have such a place look into the winter sowing forum. You will get help there and advice on what plants are good candidates for winter sowing.

Nasturtiums, lobelia, petunia, dwarf zinnias, swan river daisy and portulaca are all easily started from seed and would look good in a hanging basket

    Bookmark     February 16, 2014 at 11:07PM
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japus

I did these last year, first time ever for me with flowers.
My wife spent $400 for hanging baskets that died.
She eventually took all of my nasturtiums and put them on the porch.
This year I am going to have them all over everything.
Started with grow lights in basement..
Beginners luck ????

    Bookmark     February 18, 2014 at 10:31PM
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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

Thanks mandolls & dig dirt for your input! In my own defense, I had just watered before taking the pic...... That said, I do struggle with ProMix retainging moisture (which is what it's supposed to do)...... I've taken to using a small fan for air circulation as well as helping dry the media....

The over fertilizing thing is a more glaring mistake...... Don't have any excuses to offer on that one other than ignorance... :)

    Bookmark     February 17, 2014 at 1:36PM
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brandon7 TN_zone(7)

Glad I could be of help, Cugal!

    Bookmark     February 18, 2014 at 9:56AM
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tomtuxman(6bNY)

Mandolls, how long did it take to get to the 12-15 inch size? Thanx for the advice.

    Bookmark     February 17, 2014 at 8:37AM
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mandolls(4)

I actually don't quite remember. I know they were at least 6-8 " when I moved them out to the screened in porch at the end of May. ( I started the seed in mid Feb) I kept them alive all summer, and they continued to grow and multiply even though they were only in 9oz plastic cups.

    Bookmark     February 17, 2014 at 5:22PM
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njitgrad

Does anyone know if shade fabric be bought locally? Or is this something you need to purchase from a grower supply site?

    Bookmark     February 17, 2014 at 11:42AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Locally here - the big box stores like HD and Lowe's carry both shade fabric and fiberglass screening. So does our Ace hardware as well as Walmart. All depends on what the local demand for it is.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 17, 2014 at 12:31PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yes, and you can do them at any stage but easier with at least 1 set of true leaves as the stems are stronger.

Here is a link that might be useful: pics of imp seedlings

    Bookmark     February 16, 2014 at 6:26PM
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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

Thanks Dave for your input & the link! Yeah I might want to wait a bit! Seems I need more patience with my impatiens......... (And so many other things...... )

    Bookmark     February 16, 2014 at 10:16PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Since they don't all get planted out at the same time anyway - peppers are slower to grow than tomatoes but require warmer soil than tomatoes - I'd use the 10 th date. Cucumbers work MUCH better when direct seeded.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 16, 2014 at 1:43PM
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art33(6)

Hi John,
Well, even though I grow mostly annual flowers, the terms used to suggest seed starting times are the same. Usually youâÂÂll see something like âÂÂStart your seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area.â So, according to that, you would start your tomato seeds about 6 to 8 weeks before the 10th of May.
The reason for suggesting that you plant the seedling about 2 weeks after that last frost date is to give the soil time to warm up a bit. The seedlings need to be hardened off first anyway. Generally, if you wait until your night temperatures are staying above about 50 deg F, you should be safe to plant tomato seedlings outside. It could, of course, take more than 2 weeks after that last frost for that to occur.

Hope this helps,
Art

    Bookmark     February 16, 2014 at 1:58PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Too wet and too warm = mold growth and mold spores are in the air all around us so no telling where they came from.

I'd go ahead and plant the seeds in your germination mix and assuming you keep proper moisture levels they should still germinate.

If you are generally happy with this method of germination that's fine. Personally I find it more troublesome than the normal approach.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 12, 2014 at 4:27PM
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greenman62

you could try Hydrogen Peroxide at a diluted level.
some use it to kill mold.
im no expert on levels, so you might want to google it, or maybe someone with experience here can answer.

    Bookmark     February 16, 2014 at 10:03AM
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

tropical_thought - your seedlings will bloom when they are ready. Even in my climate plants which germinated in late summer/autumn will overwinter fine. But I don't expect them to flower until summer. They produce plenty of seed in our cool summers so there shouldn't be any problem in Ca. They self sow with abandon.

    Bookmark     February 15, 2014 at 10:17AM
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tropical_thought(San Francisco)

Those are nice I have the red ones also. The problem is they won't bloom until summer but before that diseases and insects will take them out. Or rather I have to remove them often due to insects and fungal problems.

    Bookmark     February 15, 2014 at 11:58AM
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tdscpa(z5 NWKS)

I start my seeds (tomato and pepper) inside folded damp paper towels inside plastic bags in trays on top of the lights above my tropical fish aquarium. They stay at a nice 80F when the lights are on, dropping to about 75F after the timer turns the lights off.

I check for sprouting every couple of days beginning about five days after starting them. I may have to add moisture to some that get a little dry.

When they sprout, I use a small screwdriver to transfer them to growing trays under lights in my very cool basement (65F or so.)

When they grow their second pair of leaves, I transplant to individual containers.

    Bookmark     February 8, 2014 at 2:05AM
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Long48

What seeds are you starting? That is the major factor at play here.

    Bookmark     February 14, 2014 at 12:57PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

For this reason, it is better to use sterile starting mix or sterilize it yourself in overn, outdoor grill ...

ProMix, just like most all quality brand mixes, is sterile coming out of the bag or bale.

Your water is not and neither are your containers much less the air. There is no need to pre-sterilize it. The solution is with the moisture levels and the air circulation. Any kind of electric fan even remotely in the area will improve air circulation.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 13, 2014 at 1:07PM
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cugal(5b-6a NE Ks)

@ Any kind of electric fan even remotely in the area will improve air circulation.

Dave

Thanks again Dave! I've since placed a small 8" fan (on low speed) inside my germinator to move some indirect air around (sans domes on the flats) ...... This has made a huge difference! Just have to keep media moist.....

Nother 10 years & I'll have the hang of this stuff! The basics, anyway..........

    Bookmark     February 13, 2014 at 7:40PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

None that I am aware of assuming it is relatively fresh seed. It is a heirloom variety so no breed or purity issues. Might want to pre-soak the seed before sowing to soften the hulls and improve germination rate.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 12, 2014 at 4:22PM
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the_yard_guy(6A)

Mike,

A good place to start is Tom Clothiers website:

http://tomclothier.hort.net/

I'm short of time at the moment, but basically if you look in the Tree and Shrub section you should find stratification and germination data for just about every tree and shrub around. The advice there is sound and I have used it many times for growing pine, spruce and fir trees from seed.

One thing I like to do is to soak the seeds in regular hydrogen peroxide for about an hour or two, just to remove any dirt or fungus from the seed coats. After that I change to plain water.

Hope that helps.

TYG

    Bookmark     February 11, 2014 at 8:55PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Dave - where the heck are you finding seeds of Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum'???!!!

Not. Oh Rubrum seeds are offered for sale out there but are a rip off. Not so much that they are sterile but 99% are harvested too early and aren't mature enough to be viable.

I should have been more clear that I was addressing the title of the post - sowing ornamental grass seeds in general.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Rubrum viability discussion

    Bookmark     February 11, 2014 at 6:14PM
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lovesblooms(7a)

Really? I got them in a trade and then threw them out thinking they were sterile. So how would I know they're mature?

    Bookmark     February 11, 2014 at 8:23PM
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