6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Probably neither since exposure to both bacteria and fungal virus while growing indoors is extremely rare as exposure would be difficult.

The purpling is common with young seedlings with young roots when growing in cool environments - especially if watered with cold water too. It is a normal physiological response for the seedlings and disappears naturally as the plant matures. It requires no intervention 95% of the time.

The bumps are on the leaves or the stems? On the leaves it is usually water blisters from over-watering and disappears as soon as you cut back on the water and/or humidity. If on the stems they are called adventitious roots and are normal in older plants - very common with Maxifort. In young seedlings it can also be a sign of over-watering.

Would need much more info and hopefully a pic to be more specific.

Dave

This same post was also included in the Trees Forum and has been answered there. See link below for that thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Duplicate Post in the Trees Forum

Where are you going to start these seeds. Do you have a light setup or cold frame to start them early. A window sill doesn't give enough light to grow good plants. Most seeds need a few weeks head start indoors before going outside after danger of frost is past.

If you don't have such a place look into the winter sowing forum. You will get help there and advice on what plants are good candidates for winter sowing.

Nasturtiums, lobelia, petunia, dwarf zinnias, swan river daisy and portulaca are all easily started from seed and would look good in a hanging basket

I did these last year, first time ever for me with flowers.
My wife spent $400 for hanging baskets that died.
She eventually took all of my nasturtiums and put them on the porch.
This year I am going to have them all over everything.
Started with grow lights in basement..
Beginners luck ????

Yes, and you can do them at any stage but easier with at least 1 set of true leaves as the stems are stronger.

Here is a link that might be useful: pics of imp seedlings

Thanks Dave for your input & the link! Yeah I might want to wait a bit! Seems I need more patience with my impatiens......... (And so many other things...... )

Since they don't all get planted out at the same time anyway - peppers are slower to grow than tomatoes but require warmer soil than tomatoes - I'd use the 10 th date. Cucumbers work MUCH better when direct seeded.

Dave

Hi John,
Well, even though I grow mostly annual flowers, the terms used to suggest seed starting times are the same. Usually youâÂÂll see something like âÂÂStart your seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area.â So, according to that, you would start your tomato seeds about 6 to 8 weeks before the 10th of May.
The reason for suggesting that you plant the seedling about 2 weeks after that last frost date is to give the soil time to warm up a bit. The seedlings need to be hardened off first anyway. Generally, if you wait until your night temperatures are staying above about 50 deg F, you should be safe to plant tomato seedlings outside. It could, of course, take more than 2 weeks after that last frost for that to occur.

Hope this helps,
Art

Too wet and too warm = mold growth and mold spores are in the air all around us so no telling where they came from.

I'd go ahead and plant the seeds in your germination mix and assuming you keep proper moisture levels they should still germinate.

If you are generally happy with this method of germination that's fine. Personally I find it more troublesome than the normal approach.

Dave

you could try Hydrogen Peroxide at a diluted level.
some use it to kill mold.
im no expert on levels, so you might want to google it, or maybe someone with experience here can answer.

None that I am aware of assuming it is relatively fresh seed. It is a heirloom variety so no breed or purity issues. Might want to pre-soak the seed before sowing to soften the hulls and improve germination rate.

Dave

Mike,

A good place to start is Tom Clothiers website:

http://tomclothier.hort.net/

I'm short of time at the moment, but basically if you look in the Tree and Shrub section you should find stratification and germination data for just about every tree and shrub around. The advice there is sound and I have used it many times for growing pine, spruce and fir trees from seed.

One thing I like to do is to soak the seeds in regular hydrogen peroxide for about an hour or two, just to remove any dirt or fungus from the seed coats. After that I change to plain water.

Hope that helps.

TYG